First of all it is a 1995 camry with 79000 miles on it. It has always run fine until one day it just started to feel like the engine was missing around 45-50 mph and when you idle or reverse. So, we took it to a mechanic who said it was tune up work. The spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter were all changed. We also ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas and replaced a broken tortion control mount. The problem persisted so we ended up having to take it to another mechanic who said I had a broken engine mount. So, he replaced that and balanced my tires. The problem still persisted, although it wasn't as bad it's still frustrating to spend this much money and have the same problem. So the question is what could be wrong with it and how can it be fixed? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks!Two mechanics and no luck?
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
A car engine question?
okay, let me start off by saying that about all i know about fixing cars is how to change the anti-freeze, the spark plugs, those wire going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs, the battery, and i could probably change the oil if i had a lift or something to get my car high enough off the ground and the tools to do it. i drive a 2000 honda accord, and i'm interested in maybe having work done to increase the compression ratio of my engine. for those of you who know, i was just wondering if, keeping my above skills in mind, i could maybe do that myself or if i should take my car to a shop and have the job done by someone with more experience.A car engine question?
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Who sets the prices?
How do all these gas stations know in minutes what to change their prices to? Does the ownership call them every day after they call the distributor and if so then it's the same dern gas in the tank, right?Who sets the prices?
Price fixingcat the best way to get odor out of blankets
Price fixing
Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
How hard is it to change a valve cover gasket on a 3.0 doch. Its a stratus, I looked anb the distributor is up there does it come out too? please help cant afford $70. or $90. an hour need to do my self. I have some no how.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.
How ignition leads can get broken?
recently (2 months ago) i replaced spark plug cables with a new supposedly oem part days ago i have noticed that 3 out of six are already faulty causing missfire , i prepare myself to change them again but i want to know what can be the cause.. spark plugs and distributor components are in good order leads are not damaged just loose resistance and cause visible in dark spark jump along the insulation..How ignition leads can get broken?
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
The rotor is in the way. I was told if I bump the key over, it could possibly rotate the rotor enough, so that the lip moves to the other side and the I can remove the ICM. DOes this sound right. and when I do this does the distributor cap need to be on or off?When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
STOP.....STOP.....
That is NOT the ICM in the distributor, (this is not 1975)
The sensor in the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position sensor)
DO NOT TOUCH THIS......
The ICM is located on the right side of the intake right in front of the ignition coil...When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
Take the distributor cap off, then pull off the rotor and you can get to the ignition control module. Good time to install a new rotor, cap, and wires. Make sure you put a good coating of dielectric grease under the ignition control module before you install it.
STOP.....STOP.....
That is NOT the ICM in the distributor, (this is not 1975)
The sensor in the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position sensor)
DO NOT TOUCH THIS......
The ICM is located on the right side of the intake right in front of the ignition coil...When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
Take the distributor cap off, then pull off the rotor and you can get to the ignition control module. Good time to install a new rotor, cap, and wires. Make sure you put a good coating of dielectric grease under the ignition control module before you install it.
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