Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break upIs it normal to hump blankets 4getting married
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
Last summer it blew some freeze plugs so he got them changed. Then son and his friend were gonna start the truck and the Starter hung hung up and is shorted out the solenoid. So instead of his friend waiting until he got the solenoid to replace it He took it off and said OH THIS Is WHAT You need. So his friend was drunk and could not remember how to rewire the solenoid. And he wired it backwards and messed up the Alternator. So then we had to replace that. We changed the rotor bug, the distributor cap, and plug wires, the coil and coil wire And still nothing it will crank but will not start. We checked it is getting spark.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
Spark is good, how about fuel? It could be the fuel pump, or the fuse to the fuel pump if it is electric. Some of those are mechanical and some are electric. Depends on the engine. Spray some either (starting fluid) into the carb or intake depending on the engine, if it starts it is likely not getting fuel. Is it getting enough air? to test that just take out the air filter and try to start it. If it starts replace the air filter.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
sounds like it could be a fuel injection problem. has the fuel filter been changed? also you can check your fuel pump by unplugging the fuel line near tha gas tank then try cranking your engine. if alot of fuel sprays out the pump is good but if little or no fuel is spraying out its definitely the pump. also check your injectors they may be bad or dirty
First what is a rotor bug.??? Second when replacing the ign. wires are they in the right firing order.? Third you may be getting spark BUT is that spark hot enough.? I'd replace the electronic spark control..even if just for GP now... and finally before anything make sure your getting gas .. GL
you change spark plug wire check make sure the fire order is correct.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay?
Spark is good, how about fuel? It could be the fuel pump, or the fuse to the fuel pump if it is electric. Some of those are mechanical and some are electric. Depends on the engine. Spray some either (starting fluid) into the carb or intake depending on the engine, if it starts it is likely not getting fuel. Is it getting enough air? to test that just take out the air filter and try to start it. If it starts replace the air filter.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
sounds like it could be a fuel injection problem. has the fuel filter been changed? also you can check your fuel pump by unplugging the fuel line near tha gas tank then try cranking your engine. if alot of fuel sprays out the pump is good but if little or no fuel is spraying out its definitely the pump. also check your injectors they may be bad or dirty
First what is a rotor bug.??? Second when replacing the ign. wires are they in the right firing order.? Third you may be getting spark BUT is that spark hot enough.? I'd replace the electronic spark control..even if just for GP now... and finally before anything make sure your getting gas .. GL
you change spark plug wire check make sure the fire order is correct.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay?
1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
How the hell do you get the bolt off the rotor? It's turned at a bad angle and I can't even see if it's a phillips head, or what. Also, the valve cover gasket is pretty much shot and there's oil in all the spark plug wells, the car should still run, right? It's worked fine up until now, and I know it needs to be fixed, but the car stopped running to day and I changed the plugs, wires, and distributor cap, but I can't get the damn rotor off. I tried restarting the car with the new stuff and the old rotor, but it still won't fire. Hopefully when I get back under the distributor cap the rotor bolt will be a more manageable place. Any other ideas?94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
I posted this question earlier today, but after reading the responses, realized that I should have included some more pertinent information. So, here it goes... I'm looking for some direction on how I should be approaching a career change into the wine business. I need to earn a respectable living and do something stimulating. So, working in a tasting room at a winery seems to be out due to not enough income and dealing with the same 5-10 wines EVERY day. I'd ideally like to work for a distributor/importer or become a sommelier/assistant sommelier, but from my research, both of these positions require a few years of experience at a minimum. Does anyone know if I have any PRAYER of landing one of these types of jobs right off the bat with no experience? And if so, what do I have to do to land one? By no experience I am only referring to working in the wine business. I have been an avid wine lover for 6 years, have read many encyclopedic wine volumes, and really know my stuff!Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
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