Hey there I have a 1997 cadillac sts 4.6L v8 32 north-star and my question is what is the best type of spark plugs and wires, with a somewhat of a tight budget, and a another question is i have noticed that there is not distributor, but it looks like a coil pack and does that needs to be changed as well, when i change the spark plugs and wires and how much does those coils are and thank you for your answersTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not ';start'; to go out.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Need Help Editing Samba?
I need help editing samba I am a newbe to Linux. Ubuntu is my distributor. I want to share files between a couple windows machines running xp and I want my Linux machine to be able to share printers and file between my windows machines. I can find and see the samba config file but i cant edit it. My xp computers can see the Linux machine but cant access it because it needs a user name and password. Thats why i want to be able to edit the config file for samba. Please I need step by step instructions on how to edit samba and change the config file so i can browse and write files to the linux computers.Need Help Editing Samba?
what is samba
what is samba
1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
I am debating on changing my oxygen sensor in my 1990 dodge ram d150 5.2l. My engine stalls when I am idling in every position EXCEPT park. Park works great. It will not stall if I give it a steady stream of gas. My truck hates stop lights and stop signs.. haha...
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways firstlong hair styles can a cable company do this
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways first
Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
I have a 98 Jeep grand cherokee, and i noticed it hasnt been shifting very well anymore, usually has a delayed shift to it on 2nd and 3rd gear. I decited to run the car for awhile and check the transmission fluid and it was very low. So i filled it back up to the OK mark and it shifts fine now.
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Two mechanics and no luck?
First of all it is a 1995 camry with 79000 miles on it. It has always run fine until one day it just started to feel like the engine was missing around 45-50 mph and when you idle or reverse. So, we took it to a mechanic who said it was tune up work. The spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter were all changed. We also ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas and replaced a broken tortion control mount. The problem persisted so we ended up having to take it to another mechanic who said I had a broken engine mount. So, he replaced that and balanced my tires. The problem still persisted, although it wasn't as bad it's still frustrating to spend this much money and have the same problem. So the question is what could be wrong with it and how can it be fixed? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks!Two mechanics and no luck?
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
A car engine question?
okay, let me start off by saying that about all i know about fixing cars is how to change the anti-freeze, the spark plugs, those wire going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs, the battery, and i could probably change the oil if i had a lift or something to get my car high enough off the ground and the tools to do it. i drive a 2000 honda accord, and i'm interested in maybe having work done to increase the compression ratio of my engine. for those of you who know, i was just wondering if, keeping my above skills in mind, i could maybe do that myself or if i should take my car to a shop and have the job done by someone with more experience.A car engine question?
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
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