1990 honda crx problem help.?

Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.

Here is what I have done so far.

1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.

2. Replaced Battery.

3. Replaced fuel filter.

4. Replaced fuel pump.



How problem started.

Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.

It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.

Fixing process.

I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.

I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.

I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.

Car dies randomly at red lights?

I have a 67 impala and just got a tune up (changed air filter and spark plugs myself) and got a well respected mechanic to change the starter, change the spark plug wires and distributor caps and also gave it a tune up (fixed the timing and adjusted the carburetor). Now when I drive it, it will sometimes die on me at red lights waiting for it to turn green and when I start it back up it will have a ';grrr'; sound when I turn the key (only sometimes).



What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.

Ford taurus Distributor cap?

I have a 2000 ford Taurus my check engine light is on. I got it diagnosed they said I have a cylinder misfire. They said check my distributor cap. I called auto zone to see how much a distributor cap costs and they said my car doesn檛 have one. If I don檛 have a distributor cap what do I have? and how to I fix a cylinder misfire? I have already got my wires and plugs checked and changed.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
If you are sure that all the plugs are good, and that the wires are ok and properly seated, then it may be that the coil/s have gone out, or have a busted tower on one or more of them.

Now the 3.0 DOHC has six such coils sold each, in which case replace the one that has the misfire.

(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.

The 3.0 OHC engine has one, and the complete unit will have to be replaced.

(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
';2000 Ford Taurus'; Distributor / Ignition

http://autos.aol.com/cars-Ford-Taurus-20



BondysTaurus's 2000 Ford Taurus

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3809753



This image shows the spark plugs ';wires'; going to ';distributor';

That distributor is not old rotary type, but you could check wires and connections,

if able with tools, remove plug caps and check inside,

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_imag



1996-2000 Ford Taurus Ignition Coil for Models with V6 3.0L

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/Fo



HOME%26gt;PARTS%26gt;IGNITION (TUNE UP)

Coil - Ignition

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-ford-



Taurus user guide pdf ~save as

http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuot



1989 Ford Taurus 3.0 Liter Profile Ignition Pickup ( 89 appears to have rotor)

http://autorepair.about.com/library/imag

..
Cars dont use a dist. any more.. it has coils usually 2 for a 4 cyl. or 3 for a v-6, just follopw your plug wires off the plugs and down to the engine block, the coil pack is there, and each one has 2 screws and it just plugs in, you can test them w/ a ohm meter,
It has a coil pack not a distributor. Run a can of Sea Foam through the gas to clean the fuel injectors and the problem should go away as long as there is no problem with the plugs and wires. Hope I have been helpful.
you don,t have a distributor in that car.you have a coil pack. you could have a bad plug wire or 1 of the towers on the coil pack could be corroded or bad.

1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?

i had a friend change my spark plugs and wires some how he didn't remember wire the wires went on the new distributor cap is it anyway to find out or does anyone know we have the firing order but don't know were the go on the distributor please help.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

Driver side front to rear is # 1 3 5 7

Pass side front to rear is # 2 4 6 8

Rotor/firing order goes clockwise



Remove #1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)



Now using a 5/8'; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and ';tighten'; the bolt that will turn engine over





Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.



Now pull dizzy cap off.



What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your #1



Put #1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint ';1'; on the dizzy cap in right place



Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the #1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.
Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC

Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.

Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.
The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.

where did my folder walk

ps3 on my monitor

Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?

The largest soft drink distributor I work for ( over 10 yrs) has recently re-structured posistions in the sales area and made everyone in their current posistions ';re-interview'; for the job, giving it a slightly different title, and minor description changes. Many will lose their jobs, and the rest will suffer loss in wages. Now , it may trickle down to the actual delivery area which SEEMS to cut and dry to do the same thing. How can they get away with it, and where do we stand if they try?Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .

Work is business and business is about contracts .

What do your contracts say about wages ?

And when do they expire ?



%26gt;

I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?

just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.



Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)



Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.

(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)





Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.



Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.



As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.

Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.

Good luck.

How to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?

My 1971 Chevy C10 [bought in '81] Pickup [shortbed/fleetside] 250 Engine, 3/4 ton Transmission + ';Four on the Floor'; [compound low] + Positraction %26gt;



For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;



Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;



So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!



My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!



What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?



I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;



I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……



I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]



I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”



So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!



Lichen I aka Grease Runner

awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher