The largest soft drink distributor I work for ( over 10 yrs) has recently re-structured posistions in the sales area and made everyone in their current posistions ';re-interview'; for the job, giving it a slightly different title, and minor description changes. Many will lose their jobs, and the rest will suffer loss in wages. Now , it may trickle down to the actual delivery area which SEEMS to cut and dry to do the same thing. How can they get away with it, and where do we stand if they try?Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .
Work is business and business is about contracts .
What do your contracts say about wages ?
And when do they expire ?
%26gt;
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
How to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
My 1971 Chevy C10 [bought in '81] Pickup [shortbed/fleetside] 250 Engine, 3/4 ton Transmission + ';Four on the Floor'; [compound low] + Positraction %26gt;
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
I took my 1996, Honda Accord LX (115,000 miles) into the local Honda dealership for a regular oil change when they advised me to get my Splark Plug Tube Seals and my Distributor O-Ring replaced completely because there was A LOT of oil around my spark plugs. They showed it to me and when they pulled them out they were dripping a lot of oil. They said it was defintely not a good thing at all and it needed to be fixed within a few days or it would ruin my car. IS IT THAT URGENT???? I have someone who can replace them for a fourth of the cost but not until this weekend. I just need to know if this situation needs to be treated immediately!How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
I started with a carburettor cleaner in fuel to try cleaning the carburettor. Did not work so removed the carburettor and cleaned it with brush etc as advised. Refitted it but same problems. The problem did not get worse so I think I did it OK. Then a mechanic told me to change the fuel pump. This is a carburetted car so I don't think a pump has such an active role. But I changed the pump . I have tested fuel flow by running the engine and collecting the oil in a bottle. The quantity was enough to keep it running and the engine was running on float bowl fuel at that time.
Now I think it may be an electrical problem. What should I try there? The car can be managed to be ridden for 5-6km if I keep using choke. The engine type is ET1. How to test the remaining issues? Should I change the spark leads or do I need a distributor? I have re seated the leads on plug and distribuitor side. I have also set the idle screw at around 900 rpmHonda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
Definitely sounds like a carburetor problem. Probably a bad accelr8r pump. With the car off look down the carb throat and roll the throttle open. It should shoot out a SOLID STREAM of gas from the moment the throttle is moved. Anything less than that is causing a problem.Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
vacuum hose or bad catalytic converter
Now I think it may be an electrical problem. What should I try there? The car can be managed to be ridden for 5-6km if I keep using choke. The engine type is ET1. How to test the remaining issues? Should I change the spark leads or do I need a distributor? I have re seated the leads on plug and distribuitor side. I have also set the idle screw at around 900 rpmHonda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
Definitely sounds like a carburetor problem. Probably a bad accelr8r pump. With the car off look down the carb throat and roll the throttle open. It should shoot out a SOLID STREAM of gas from the moment the throttle is moved. Anything less than that is causing a problem.Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
vacuum hose or bad catalytic converter
Help with Falcon AU XR6 spark leads?
How in the hell are you supposed to change the leads over when the distributor is burried amongst a bunch of cabling, pipes and metal. neeeeed help asapHelp with Falcon AU XR6 spark leads?
LoL....
Thats what we get paid for .....
Man........My best ( and least expensive ) advice to you is leave it alone until you by a service manual and do some reading up first.
LoL....
Thats what we get paid for .....
Man........My best ( and least expensive ) advice to you is leave it alone until you by a service manual and do some reading up first.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
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