Firstly, let me just clear up I'm a Liverpool fan, anyway here's how things stand. The Daily Express this morning published that van Nistelrooy could be moving to Liverpool. When I saw it I was flabbergasted. van Nistelrooy at Liverpool? In their current turmoil?
Any proper fan would think the benchmark that Real would look to is 拢15 Mil right? Can Liverpool afford this for a man that is still superb %26amp; effecient in every part of his game?
So he doesn't get played at Real, I don't know what van Nistelrooy will be thinking but get this... if he comes it won't be all plain sailing %26amp; we'll still be two players short. I don't know if he can play this lone-striker that Rafa %26amp; Chelsea employ (big fan of the role, both Liverpool %26amp; Chelsea's respective systems with the forward man). I mean, if he doesn't change the shape (Rafa) to 4-4-2 then this prospective signing could be another Cisse. In for a dozen %26amp; out for 4 (I know is said 15 mil but say Real compromise considering their wage bill).
We're looking at one star man on the bench. Think about it, if does revert to 4-4-2 then Steven Gerrard plays distributor man (like Alonso, his passing is proficient enough always has been), then Aquilani presumably bombs forward from deep (it could be easily be vice versa, thats how flexible we could make the team with Gerrard %26amp; aquilani playing consistently) but Mascherano? The destroyer right, the energy? Is he going to throw his toys out of the pram like Ronaldo did but for seperate reasons i.e. being kept out of the team if Aquilani comes in.
Will the owners carve out a say a dozen million and burn a hole in the pocket or will Rafa spring a shock sale on us? Dutchman out. Dutchman in.
This was a full-on question but listen it's all hypothetical but still very relevant in 2010. Those are my pros and cons for the prospective arrival of the dutchman. Give me your thoughts now??
Oh %26amp; I'm not rubbing it in the noses of any Man u fans. I, I'm just enthusiastic about the speculation.Sounds pessimistic... paper talk of Ruud van Nistelrooy link with Liverpool unrealistic surely?
If SAF can sign ex liverpool %26amp; real striker, Owen, it would be a good balance for Rafa to sign ex Man Utd %26amp; real striker too.
Best of luck to the pool.Sounds pessimistic... paper talk of Ruud van Nistelrooy link with Liverpool unrealistic surely?
Never heard of the guy. He sounds good though. Yeah why not. Sign him for 1.5 trillion. Is he French by the way? If so then he'll cost a bit more.
In futball nothing is unrealistic my friend..they probably can't afford it..but with their current problems I woulnt be surpriced to see them go after atleast 2 stars this winter evenif they can't afford them.
Sure why not. He needs some games. The class of Real Madrid is gonna push him aside and Liverpool need someone like him to help them win the (unlikely) title.
As far as I know we are only trying to get him on loan and his contract is up soon.
just a loan deal being looked at that's all.
There's got to be a horse placenta joke in there somewhere
are you having a laugh.....at 34 van nistelroy is past it....scored only 1 goal this season and picks up injuries on a weekly basis...are you crowd that desperate that you see van nistleroy as your saviour ? and he would be hardly coming into a successful team would he ? would he get into the man utd team ? arsenal ? chelsea ? they wouldn't go near him ! the circus that is your club goes on and im enjoying the show !
Monday, June 6, 2011
1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
I posted earlier about an oil leak Im having with this 3.0 engine. This issue however involves how the engine is actually running. When I first started the car after the engine swap it was bucking and jumping all over the place like it wanted to jump out of the engine bay, after a few startups the idle seems to have cleared up and its running decently actually. The issue Im having now tho is when you rev the engine it shakes badly, when you put the car in gear and try to go it just sits there bucking in place like the engine is misfiring all over the place. I have checked wires with an ohm meter and they test fine, I checked plugs and while they are slightly carbon'd they arent at the level of not sparking. I am getting good spark from the wires I pulled at the Distributor. The other thing is when it was running bad at idle before, if you pulled a wire of the Dis.Cap there was no change in how the engine ran. Any ideas as to the problem? Also Cap/Rotor are good.
Thank you for any help1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
check the timing.you may have a bad dist.1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
sounds like valve issues %26amp; check bushings That's probably the last 88 Voyager on the planet !
either the timing is off , you dont have the wires in the correct order or your wires arent on tight
More than anything it sounds like a couple plug wires are reversed.I don't believe low fuel pressure would make it shake and buck.
Thank you for any help1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
check the timing.you may have a bad dist.1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
sounds like valve issues %26amp; check bushings That's probably the last 88 Voyager on the planet !
either the timing is off , you dont have the wires in the correct order or your wires arent on tight
More than anything it sounds like a couple plug wires are reversed.I don't believe low fuel pressure would make it shake and buck.
Patch panel cabling?
I have rewired my house and have istalled the ';strucutred Home Networking Plus cabling panel '; from Leviton.
When the installer from the telephone company came yesterday, using the Cat3, 4 pair wire that I have used, he put the blue wire on the telephone module, which I believe is simply a seven way distributor, and used the orange pair, and gave me a seperate jack for the ADSL, and mounted it right below the panel.
How does that work, when I have only one number coming in, does not it work only on one pair of wire, should not have either only the blue, or orange be usable, or are all four pairs
delievering the service.
He also told me that the only jack that I can use to connect to my modem, will be this ADSL jack and none of the others.
How does this work. Does the change happen in this jack, or at the box outside.
Thanks for your answer.Patch panel cabling?
Your phone comes in the same pair as the DSL. Voice uses analog signals while DSL uses a digital signal. That's why they both come in the same pair. The filter is used to remove the noise the digital signal can cause on your analog. Hope this helps.
Update: He could've connected both pairs to the same line at the box outside your house and then to each jack. Have seen it done that way.
When the installer from the telephone company came yesterday, using the Cat3, 4 pair wire that I have used, he put the blue wire on the telephone module, which I believe is simply a seven way distributor, and used the orange pair, and gave me a seperate jack for the ADSL, and mounted it right below the panel.
How does that work, when I have only one number coming in, does not it work only on one pair of wire, should not have either only the blue, or orange be usable, or are all four pairs
delievering the service.
He also told me that the only jack that I can use to connect to my modem, will be this ADSL jack and none of the others.
How does this work. Does the change happen in this jack, or at the box outside.
Thanks for your answer.Patch panel cabling?
Your phone comes in the same pair as the DSL. Voice uses analog signals while DSL uses a digital signal. That's why they both come in the same pair. The filter is used to remove the noise the digital signal can cause on your analog. Hope this helps.
Update: He could've connected both pairs to the same line at the box outside your house and then to each jack. Have seen it done that way.
Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
i know there is a lot of mistakes but i can't see them, please help to fix them, feel free to change any word you don't like, i will be very appreciated:
The movie: the forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: October 2007 press conference in Cairo,
And in 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be in June 2009.
The shooting started in a very mall old ghost town in the early of 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threatens demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, after 8 months the whole shooting process was finished. The movie comes after two Saudi's filming attempts.
Before the shooting start I went through one month of preparation for the role (Canadian tourist), learned so many things in this one month about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions, it was eight months exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then to the shooting location, because most of shooting were in the night, during the act the feeling was priceless,
After the movie was done I received a very encouraging critics from the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me to a new mission for photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
The movie: The forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: It first appeared in October 2007 at a press conference in Cairo,
and in the 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be on June 2009.
The shooting started at a small old ghost town in the early 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threats demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, the shooting took 8 months to complete.
Before the commence of the shooting, I went through one month of preparation, for the role of a (Canadian tourist),I learnt a lot of things about about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions in a month, it was eight months of exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then at the shooting location, because most of shooting was at night, the feeling of shooting the movie was priceless.
After the movie was done I received very encouraging reviews from the critics of the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me a new mission , to photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
best of luck for your supplement , confused is just a profile name , shows the state of humans everywhere :)
The movie: the forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: October 2007 press conference in Cairo,
And in 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be in June 2009.
The shooting started in a very mall old ghost town in the early of 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threatens demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, after 8 months the whole shooting process was finished. The movie comes after two Saudi's filming attempts.
Before the shooting start I went through one month of preparation for the role (Canadian tourist), learned so many things in this one month about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions, it was eight months exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then to the shooting location, because most of shooting were in the night, during the act the feeling was priceless,
After the movie was done I received a very encouraging critics from the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me to a new mission for photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
The movie: The forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: It first appeared in October 2007 at a press conference in Cairo,
and in the 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be on June 2009.
The shooting started at a small old ghost town in the early 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threats demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, the shooting took 8 months to complete.
Before the commence of the shooting, I went through one month of preparation, for the role of a (Canadian tourist),I learnt a lot of things about about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions in a month, it was eight months of exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then at the shooting location, because most of shooting was at night, the feeling of shooting the movie was priceless.
After the movie was done I received very encouraging reviews from the critics of the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me a new mission , to photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
best of luck for your supplement , confused is just a profile name , shows the state of humans everywhere :)
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Intermittent miss now full time?
I have a 93 t-100 p/u 334,000 miles, ran strong, always over 20 mpg's then an intermittent miss started, than went to full time miss, I did the easy stuff, new plugs, wires, rotor and new distributor cap, unfortunately it didn't do the trick, I started removing one plug wire at a time while engine running to identify the bad cyl. notice # 2 and #6 does not change how the engine is idling, did a compression test and seems as though all are around 125 psi. any ideas, I thought injector, but 2 of them to go bad at the same time, I think would be unlikely, any Ideas or other things to try???? I luv my truckIntermittent miss now full time?
low fuel pessure and or injectors..possible to see spouse name of song
low fuel pessure and or injectors..
Need a little help with a friends swap?
I am helping with a swap I need to know the best way to go about this its a 90 crx dx. I need to do the mpfi got that already down. its a 97 hx motor (don't ask) that's going into the dx. Can I use an obd1 conversion with p28 ecu and z6 intake or is there going to be a problem with the obd1 distributor on the obd2 head and will VTEC still engage or would it be easier to go with the obd2 conversion. I know obd1 is the best way to go when doing a conversion just for the fact of the p28 ecu. thanks for the help. I think I can just need another opinion
AND IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO CHANGE A SPARK PLUG DON'T ANSWERNeed a little help with a friends swap?
The z6 distributor won't work, it's the odd ball distributor. You can however use one from a D15B7 or B8 ('92-'95 LX/DX or CX). The P28 ecu isn't going to work either. Since the D16Y5 is a VTEC-E engine, the vtec engagement is somewhere between 2000-3000 rpms. Before then, it only runs off of 1 intake valve per cylinder. With the P28, (I'm not sure but this is an educated guess) it will probably run off the 1 intake valve up until vtec engagement (somewhere around 5000 rpms), at which point it will run off of all the valves. That will result in a very slow car, that will run incredibly rich up until vtec engagement. So rich that it will not only run poorly because of the 1 intake valve thing, but also from being far too rich (bogging bad).
You could try using the correct ecu for the Y5 (the P2N), but you'll run into some issues there as well. You'll need to run a 5-wire O2 sensor, as well as wire up the EGR. So you'll be doing the DPFI to MPFI conversion, OBD0 to OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, adding wires for misc sensors, and dealing with the other different OBD parts (injectors, distributor, alternator).
It's certainly not an easy swap, that's for sure. If you tackle this project and succeed, you certainly have my respect. Personally I wouldn't have the patience to deal with it, or I'd charge a hefty fee to do it.Need a little help with a friends swap?
You might have take into consideration that the newer D series engines are hydraulic actuated while the older engines in the CRX aren't. They're run by cable instead. Its been a while since I messed with Hondas so your best bet is to check around Honda-Tech.com for some answers. You may be able to get away by just using the tranny from the CRX engine. Refer to a manual if you need help on swapping the engine out:
http://www.tunerselect.com/100915,auctio
phong k is right about honda tech but i did swap with my eg from the d17 to ab18b which uses an obd2 and the d17 uses the obd1 i used the obd2 conversion. and in your case i would say use the conversion because your difficulties with the ecu will be easier to deal with down the road then using the obd1. and no i dont believe v-tech will work either
If you are doing all that work. why don't you get a b series it will go faster than a any D series in stock
AND IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO CHANGE A SPARK PLUG DON'T ANSWERNeed a little help with a friends swap?
The z6 distributor won't work, it's the odd ball distributor. You can however use one from a D15B7 or B8 ('92-'95 LX/DX or CX). The P28 ecu isn't going to work either. Since the D16Y5 is a VTEC-E engine, the vtec engagement is somewhere between 2000-3000 rpms. Before then, it only runs off of 1 intake valve per cylinder. With the P28, (I'm not sure but this is an educated guess) it will probably run off the 1 intake valve up until vtec engagement (somewhere around 5000 rpms), at which point it will run off of all the valves. That will result in a very slow car, that will run incredibly rich up until vtec engagement. So rich that it will not only run poorly because of the 1 intake valve thing, but also from being far too rich (bogging bad).
You could try using the correct ecu for the Y5 (the P2N), but you'll run into some issues there as well. You'll need to run a 5-wire O2 sensor, as well as wire up the EGR. So you'll be doing the DPFI to MPFI conversion, OBD0 to OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, adding wires for misc sensors, and dealing with the other different OBD parts (injectors, distributor, alternator).
It's certainly not an easy swap, that's for sure. If you tackle this project and succeed, you certainly have my respect. Personally I wouldn't have the patience to deal with it, or I'd charge a hefty fee to do it.Need a little help with a friends swap?
You might have take into consideration that the newer D series engines are hydraulic actuated while the older engines in the CRX aren't. They're run by cable instead. Its been a while since I messed with Hondas so your best bet is to check around Honda-Tech.com for some answers. You may be able to get away by just using the tranny from the CRX engine. Refer to a manual if you need help on swapping the engine out:
http://www.tunerselect.com/100915,auctio
phong k is right about honda tech but i did swap with my eg from the d17 to ab18b which uses an obd2 and the d17 uses the obd1 i used the obd2 conversion. and in your case i would say use the conversion because your difficulties with the ecu will be easier to deal with down the road then using the obd1. and no i dont believe v-tech will work either
If you are doing all that work. why don't you get a b series it will go faster than a any D series in stock
Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Scooter died the other day, put in a new spark plug and fuel filter today, it's still not working. Took it for a test spin afterwards, didn't make it out of the neighborhood. Walked it back home a short ways, tried restarting it, pumping the throttle vigorously until the bike started again and made it back home.
What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.
I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.
The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.
I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.
With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.
I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.
Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.
What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.
I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.
The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.
I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.
With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.
I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.
Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.
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