Firstly, let me just clear up I'm a Liverpool fan, anyway here's how things stand. The Daily Express this morning published that van Nistelrooy could be moving to Liverpool. When I saw it I was flabbergasted. van Nistelrooy at Liverpool? In their current turmoil?
Any proper fan would think the benchmark that Real would look to is 拢15 Mil right? Can Liverpool afford this for a man that is still superb %26amp; effecient in every part of his game?
So he doesn't get played at Real, I don't know what van Nistelrooy will be thinking but get this... if he comes it won't be all plain sailing %26amp; we'll still be two players short. I don't know if he can play this lone-striker that Rafa %26amp; Chelsea employ (big fan of the role, both Liverpool %26amp; Chelsea's respective systems with the forward man). I mean, if he doesn't change the shape (Rafa) to 4-4-2 then this prospective signing could be another Cisse. In for a dozen %26amp; out for 4 (I know is said 15 mil but say Real compromise considering their wage bill).
We're looking at one star man on the bench. Think about it, if does revert to 4-4-2 then Steven Gerrard plays distributor man (like Alonso, his passing is proficient enough always has been), then Aquilani presumably bombs forward from deep (it could be easily be vice versa, thats how flexible we could make the team with Gerrard %26amp; aquilani playing consistently) but Mascherano? The destroyer right, the energy? Is he going to throw his toys out of the pram like Ronaldo did but for seperate reasons i.e. being kept out of the team if Aquilani comes in.
Will the owners carve out a say a dozen million and burn a hole in the pocket or will Rafa spring a shock sale on us? Dutchman out. Dutchman in.
This was a full-on question but listen it's all hypothetical but still very relevant in 2010. Those are my pros and cons for the prospective arrival of the dutchman. Give me your thoughts now??
Oh %26amp; I'm not rubbing it in the noses of any Man u fans. I, I'm just enthusiastic about the speculation.Sounds pessimistic... paper talk of Ruud van Nistelrooy link with Liverpool unrealistic surely?
If SAF can sign ex liverpool %26amp; real striker, Owen, it would be a good balance for Rafa to sign ex Man Utd %26amp; real striker too.
Best of luck to the pool.Sounds pessimistic... paper talk of Ruud van Nistelrooy link with Liverpool unrealistic surely?
Never heard of the guy. He sounds good though. Yeah why not. Sign him for 1.5 trillion. Is he French by the way? If so then he'll cost a bit more.
In futball nothing is unrealistic my friend..they probably can't afford it..but with their current problems I woulnt be surpriced to see them go after atleast 2 stars this winter evenif they can't afford them.
Sure why not. He needs some games. The class of Real Madrid is gonna push him aside and Liverpool need someone like him to help them win the (unlikely) title.
As far as I know we are only trying to get him on loan and his contract is up soon.
just a loan deal being looked at that's all.
There's got to be a horse placenta joke in there somewhere
are you having a laugh.....at 34 van nistelroy is past it....scored only 1 goal this season and picks up injuries on a weekly basis...are you crowd that desperate that you see van nistleroy as your saviour ? and he would be hardly coming into a successful team would he ? would he get into the man utd team ? arsenal ? chelsea ? they wouldn't go near him ! the circus that is your club goes on and im enjoying the show !
Monday, June 6, 2011
1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
I posted earlier about an oil leak Im having with this 3.0 engine. This issue however involves how the engine is actually running. When I first started the car after the engine swap it was bucking and jumping all over the place like it wanted to jump out of the engine bay, after a few startups the idle seems to have cleared up and its running decently actually. The issue Im having now tho is when you rev the engine it shakes badly, when you put the car in gear and try to go it just sits there bucking in place like the engine is misfiring all over the place. I have checked wires with an ohm meter and they test fine, I checked plugs and while they are slightly carbon'd they arent at the level of not sparking. I am getting good spark from the wires I pulled at the Distributor. The other thing is when it was running bad at idle before, if you pulled a wire of the Dis.Cap there was no change in how the engine ran. Any ideas as to the problem? Also Cap/Rotor are good.
Thank you for any help1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
check the timing.you may have a bad dist.1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
sounds like valve issues %26amp; check bushings That's probably the last 88 Voyager on the planet !
either the timing is off , you dont have the wires in the correct order or your wires arent on tight
More than anything it sounds like a couple plug wires are reversed.I don't believe low fuel pressure would make it shake and buck.
Thank you for any help1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
check the timing.you may have a bad dist.1988 plymouth voyager running issues?
sounds like valve issues %26amp; check bushings That's probably the last 88 Voyager on the planet !
either the timing is off , you dont have the wires in the correct order or your wires arent on tight
More than anything it sounds like a couple plug wires are reversed.I don't believe low fuel pressure would make it shake and buck.
Patch panel cabling?
I have rewired my house and have istalled the ';strucutred Home Networking Plus cabling panel '; from Leviton.
When the installer from the telephone company came yesterday, using the Cat3, 4 pair wire that I have used, he put the blue wire on the telephone module, which I believe is simply a seven way distributor, and used the orange pair, and gave me a seperate jack for the ADSL, and mounted it right below the panel.
How does that work, when I have only one number coming in, does not it work only on one pair of wire, should not have either only the blue, or orange be usable, or are all four pairs
delievering the service.
He also told me that the only jack that I can use to connect to my modem, will be this ADSL jack and none of the others.
How does this work. Does the change happen in this jack, or at the box outside.
Thanks for your answer.Patch panel cabling?
Your phone comes in the same pair as the DSL. Voice uses analog signals while DSL uses a digital signal. That's why they both come in the same pair. The filter is used to remove the noise the digital signal can cause on your analog. Hope this helps.
Update: He could've connected both pairs to the same line at the box outside your house and then to each jack. Have seen it done that way.
When the installer from the telephone company came yesterday, using the Cat3, 4 pair wire that I have used, he put the blue wire on the telephone module, which I believe is simply a seven way distributor, and used the orange pair, and gave me a seperate jack for the ADSL, and mounted it right below the panel.
How does that work, when I have only one number coming in, does not it work only on one pair of wire, should not have either only the blue, or orange be usable, or are all four pairs
delievering the service.
He also told me that the only jack that I can use to connect to my modem, will be this ADSL jack and none of the others.
How does this work. Does the change happen in this jack, or at the box outside.
Thanks for your answer.Patch panel cabling?
Your phone comes in the same pair as the DSL. Voice uses analog signals while DSL uses a digital signal. That's why they both come in the same pair. The filter is used to remove the noise the digital signal can cause on your analog. Hope this helps.
Update: He could've connected both pairs to the same line at the box outside your house and then to each jack. Have seen it done that way.
Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
i know there is a lot of mistakes but i can't see them, please help to fix them, feel free to change any word you don't like, i will be very appreciated:
The movie: the forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: October 2007 press conference in Cairo,
And in 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be in June 2009.
The shooting started in a very mall old ghost town in the early of 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threatens demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, after 8 months the whole shooting process was finished. The movie comes after two Saudi's filming attempts.
Before the shooting start I went through one month of preparation for the role (Canadian tourist), learned so many things in this one month about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions, it was eight months exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then to the shooting location, because most of shooting were in the night, during the act the feeling was priceless,
After the movie was done I received a very encouraging critics from the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me to a new mission for photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
The movie: The forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: It first appeared in October 2007 at a press conference in Cairo,
and in the 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be on June 2009.
The shooting started at a small old ghost town in the early 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threats demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, the shooting took 8 months to complete.
Before the commence of the shooting, I went through one month of preparation, for the role of a (Canadian tourist),I learnt a lot of things about about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions in a month, it was eight months of exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then at the shooting location, because most of shooting was at night, the feeling of shooting the movie was priceless.
After the movie was done I received very encouraging reviews from the critics of the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me a new mission , to photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
best of luck for your supplement , confused is just a profile name , shows the state of humans everywhere :)
The movie: the forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: October 2007 press conference in Cairo,
And in 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be in June 2009.
The shooting started in a very mall old ghost town in the early of 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threatens demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, after 8 months the whole shooting process was finished. The movie comes after two Saudi's filming attempts.
Before the shooting start I went through one month of preparation for the role (Canadian tourist), learned so many things in this one month about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions, it was eight months exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then to the shooting location, because most of shooting were in the night, during the act the feeling was priceless,
After the movie was done I received a very encouraging critics from the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me to a new mission for photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
The movie: The forgotten village (the first Saudi horror film).
The Director: Abdullah Abu talib.
The Writer: Tariq al-Dakhil
The Producer: Majdi Al-Rais
The distributor: Rotana
Country : Saudi Arabia
The language: Arabic and English
Running time: 90 minutes.
First appearance: It first appeared in October 2007 at a press conference in Cairo,
and in the 2008 gulf film festival in Dubai. The premiere will be on June 2009.
The shooting started at a small old ghost town in the early 2007, the movie was one of the most controversial issues in Saudi Arabia; because of the female actors, and the director received a lot of threats demanding him to stop shooting the movie in Saudi Arabia, the shooting took 8 months to complete.
Before the commence of the shooting, I went through one month of preparation, for the role of a (Canadian tourist),I learnt a lot of things about about acting and body movements and how to maintain a full control on my emotions in a month, it was eight months of exhaustion and fun. I used to work at the ice rink for nine hours then at the shooting location, because most of shooting was at night, the feeling of shooting the movie was priceless.
After the movie was done I received very encouraging reviews from the critics of the movie`s evaluation committee for my performance in the movie, and they assign me a new mission , to photographing and documenting tourism and archaeological areas in Saudi Arabia.Please can you fix my art supplement resume?
best of luck for your supplement , confused is just a profile name , shows the state of humans everywhere :)
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Intermittent miss now full time?
I have a 93 t-100 p/u 334,000 miles, ran strong, always over 20 mpg's then an intermittent miss started, than went to full time miss, I did the easy stuff, new plugs, wires, rotor and new distributor cap, unfortunately it didn't do the trick, I started removing one plug wire at a time while engine running to identify the bad cyl. notice # 2 and #6 does not change how the engine is idling, did a compression test and seems as though all are around 125 psi. any ideas, I thought injector, but 2 of them to go bad at the same time, I think would be unlikely, any Ideas or other things to try???? I luv my truckIntermittent miss now full time?
low fuel pessure and or injectors..possible to see spouse name of song
low fuel pessure and or injectors..
Need a little help with a friends swap?
I am helping with a swap I need to know the best way to go about this its a 90 crx dx. I need to do the mpfi got that already down. its a 97 hx motor (don't ask) that's going into the dx. Can I use an obd1 conversion with p28 ecu and z6 intake or is there going to be a problem with the obd1 distributor on the obd2 head and will VTEC still engage or would it be easier to go with the obd2 conversion. I know obd1 is the best way to go when doing a conversion just for the fact of the p28 ecu. thanks for the help. I think I can just need another opinion
AND IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO CHANGE A SPARK PLUG DON'T ANSWERNeed a little help with a friends swap?
The z6 distributor won't work, it's the odd ball distributor. You can however use one from a D15B7 or B8 ('92-'95 LX/DX or CX). The P28 ecu isn't going to work either. Since the D16Y5 is a VTEC-E engine, the vtec engagement is somewhere between 2000-3000 rpms. Before then, it only runs off of 1 intake valve per cylinder. With the P28, (I'm not sure but this is an educated guess) it will probably run off the 1 intake valve up until vtec engagement (somewhere around 5000 rpms), at which point it will run off of all the valves. That will result in a very slow car, that will run incredibly rich up until vtec engagement. So rich that it will not only run poorly because of the 1 intake valve thing, but also from being far too rich (bogging bad).
You could try using the correct ecu for the Y5 (the P2N), but you'll run into some issues there as well. You'll need to run a 5-wire O2 sensor, as well as wire up the EGR. So you'll be doing the DPFI to MPFI conversion, OBD0 to OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, adding wires for misc sensors, and dealing with the other different OBD parts (injectors, distributor, alternator).
It's certainly not an easy swap, that's for sure. If you tackle this project and succeed, you certainly have my respect. Personally I wouldn't have the patience to deal with it, or I'd charge a hefty fee to do it.Need a little help with a friends swap?
You might have take into consideration that the newer D series engines are hydraulic actuated while the older engines in the CRX aren't. They're run by cable instead. Its been a while since I messed with Hondas so your best bet is to check around Honda-Tech.com for some answers. You may be able to get away by just using the tranny from the CRX engine. Refer to a manual if you need help on swapping the engine out:
http://www.tunerselect.com/100915,auctio
phong k is right about honda tech but i did swap with my eg from the d17 to ab18b which uses an obd2 and the d17 uses the obd1 i used the obd2 conversion. and in your case i would say use the conversion because your difficulties with the ecu will be easier to deal with down the road then using the obd1. and no i dont believe v-tech will work either
If you are doing all that work. why don't you get a b series it will go faster than a any D series in stock
AND IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO CHANGE A SPARK PLUG DON'T ANSWERNeed a little help with a friends swap?
The z6 distributor won't work, it's the odd ball distributor. You can however use one from a D15B7 or B8 ('92-'95 LX/DX or CX). The P28 ecu isn't going to work either. Since the D16Y5 is a VTEC-E engine, the vtec engagement is somewhere between 2000-3000 rpms. Before then, it only runs off of 1 intake valve per cylinder. With the P28, (I'm not sure but this is an educated guess) it will probably run off the 1 intake valve up until vtec engagement (somewhere around 5000 rpms), at which point it will run off of all the valves. That will result in a very slow car, that will run incredibly rich up until vtec engagement. So rich that it will not only run poorly because of the 1 intake valve thing, but also from being far too rich (bogging bad).
You could try using the correct ecu for the Y5 (the P2N), but you'll run into some issues there as well. You'll need to run a 5-wire O2 sensor, as well as wire up the EGR. So you'll be doing the DPFI to MPFI conversion, OBD0 to OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, adding wires for misc sensors, and dealing with the other different OBD parts (injectors, distributor, alternator).
It's certainly not an easy swap, that's for sure. If you tackle this project and succeed, you certainly have my respect. Personally I wouldn't have the patience to deal with it, or I'd charge a hefty fee to do it.Need a little help with a friends swap?
You might have take into consideration that the newer D series engines are hydraulic actuated while the older engines in the CRX aren't. They're run by cable instead. Its been a while since I messed with Hondas so your best bet is to check around Honda-Tech.com for some answers. You may be able to get away by just using the tranny from the CRX engine. Refer to a manual if you need help on swapping the engine out:
http://www.tunerselect.com/100915,auctio
phong k is right about honda tech but i did swap with my eg from the d17 to ab18b which uses an obd2 and the d17 uses the obd1 i used the obd2 conversion. and in your case i would say use the conversion because your difficulties with the ecu will be easier to deal with down the road then using the obd1. and no i dont believe v-tech will work either
If you are doing all that work. why don't you get a b series it will go faster than a any D series in stock
Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Scooter died the other day, put in a new spark plug and fuel filter today, it's still not working. Took it for a test spin afterwards, didn't make it out of the neighborhood. Walked it back home a short ways, tried restarting it, pumping the throttle vigorously until the bike started again and made it back home.
What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.
I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.
The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.
I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.
With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.
I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.
Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.
What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.
I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.
The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.
I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.
With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.
I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.
Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.
Small block chevy oil pressure sender?
I'm putting a used ZZ4 engine into my 81 K5 Blazer and have the following issue. The tap on the side of the distributor for the oil pressure sender has some sort of brass plug I can't remove. I put a hole in it with a screwdriver in trying to turn it but quickly stopped since I was worried about getting brass in the crankcase and the plug was not turning. Any one have suggestions on how to remove it?
I also thought about sealing that tap and using a newer style oil pressure sender/switch which goes above the oil filter. Will it work with my gauge if I just change the plug? Thanks in advance.Small block chevy oil pressure sender?
my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop..,Small block chevy oil pressure sender?
yes you can tap in any where there is a pressure port at for either pressure or temp of oil my oil temp guage is hooked into the pressue port above the oil filter and works just fine
I also thought about sealing that tap and using a newer style oil pressure sender/switch which goes above the oil filter. Will it work with my gauge if I just change the plug? Thanks in advance.Small block chevy oil pressure sender?
my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop..,Small block chevy oil pressure sender?
yes you can tap in any where there is a pressure port at for either pressure or temp of oil my oil temp guage is hooked into the pressue port above the oil filter and works just fine
1996 Golf gti 8valve wont start or cuts out while driving?
I have a 1996 golf gti 8 valve Anniversary with a problem.It wont start or cuts out while driving,its a very intermittent fault.A week could pass without a problem then it happens again.It happened 2 years ago and i took it to a specialist who replaced the coil and the 'halls sender unit',(its in the distributor).I spoke to the same garage 2 weeks ago and he was positive it wouldn't be the halls sender unit or the coil.He advised me to change the voltage supply relay - which i did but the problem still persists,its driving me around the bend!
Has anyone else had the same problem and could you give me some ideas how to fix it?
Thanks in advance
Paul1996 Golf gti 8valve wont start or cuts out while driving?
Have a diagnostic check done. If this car is in good condition it needs keeping as its value will increase. To the person who says swap it I would remind them that the car is 14 years old and how many Jap crap cars are still around at that age. And if you are having a poke at VW then you better look to see who makes Skoda.....1996 Golf gti 8valve wont start or cuts out while driving?
swap it for a Toyota, or skoda... as they more reliable....
sounds like your GTi needs to be traded in to me...
I had this problem, yet mine was fixed by the voltage supply relay.
i have the exact same problem its so annoying. Mine wont start but if i leave it a few minutes it will then start, the problem is now getting worse and it cut out while i was driving. i have replaced the fuel pump relay and the distributor but hasnt fixed it.ive been told it could be coil, halls sender unit (which i no it isnt cos replaced the distributor) or ecu relay
Has anyone else had the same problem and could you give me some ideas how to fix it?
Thanks in advance
Paul1996 Golf gti 8valve wont start or cuts out while driving?
Have a diagnostic check done. If this car is in good condition it needs keeping as its value will increase. To the person who says swap it I would remind them that the car is 14 years old and how many Jap crap cars are still around at that age. And if you are having a poke at VW then you better look to see who makes Skoda.....1996 Golf gti 8valve wont start or cuts out while driving?
swap it for a Toyota, or skoda... as they more reliable....
sounds like your GTi needs to be traded in to me...
I had this problem, yet mine was fixed by the voltage supply relay.
i have the exact same problem its so annoying. Mine wont start but if i leave it a few minutes it will then start, the problem is now getting worse and it cut out while i was driving. i have replaced the fuel pump relay and the distributor but hasnt fixed it.ive been told it could be coil, halls sender unit (which i no it isnt cos replaced the distributor) or ecu relay
Honda crv 1999 firing order?
Car stalls after starting. Fuel lines were checked OK. A friend suspects incorrect firing order. Found that firing order was different in comparison from the book. But why was it running before? The distributor was replaced by the dealer but refused to give me anything about this unless I make an appointment for service. My problem now besides the firing order being different. This whole thing started after a routine oil change and used 10w-30 instead of 5w-30. What is going on? I want to take my car now for repair but I need to know what to tell the mechanic. Oh and my other mistake was allowing my friend to reconnect the wires like what was in the book and found out later holding a screwdriver. I said if we have it on video, at least we'll have an idea how much did we do. Would appreciate any help.Honda crv 1999 firing order?
The firing order is 1-3-4-2 . But you didn't specify whether it's a 4 or 6 cylinder. If your having problems getting it right contact me and I'll help you out.Good luck and hope this helps.date with a girl tvs
The firing order is 1-3-4-2 . But you didn't specify whether it's a 4 or 6 cylinder. If your having problems getting it right contact me and I'll help you out.Good luck and hope this helps.
How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
I have a 98 Honda Civic. I used to be able to floor the gas and my car would launch away, but I noticed today that won't happen anymore. I used to feel pressure from the gas pedal that would resist to hard of an acceleration, but the gas seems ';softer'; somehow. And when I floor it, it's as if I were just accelerating normally. I swear, the tachometer hardly increases at all.
This might be relevant: a couple weeks ago, my car died on me because the distributor was bad, so I got a new one. I think it drove fine after that. A couple days ago, I got an oil change and (I think they called it) a transmission flush. I didn't notice any difference after that, but I was also babying my car and wasn't pushing it performance-wise, so it could have been affected right away.
I want to place blame on the mechanic, but again, I didn't notice anything right away and I'd like to know just what the heck would cause this problem.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Well your question has many ';what if'; factors. The one that jumps at me is the trans service. How many miles does you're car have on it and when was the last time the trans was serviced? If it has been a long time or your car has high mileage what could be, and I mean could, is that the new transmission fluid is to clean. It happens on cars with high mileage or fluid that's not been changed enough. Inside the trans are seals that wear with age the old fluid was dirt and did not flow as well, you put in clean fluid and now the trans has a little internal leak that keeps the pressure low thus your car feels slow.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Some transmissions do not like a Flush because if can ruin seals both internal and external.
Another problem with a flush is that the filter does not get changed or cleaned. But generally the symptoms of failure are slippage and a racing motor (which is not what seems to be the problem here).
Now I am talking about an automatic.
But you could have a failing throttle cable/linkage. So check that out before you jump the mechanic.
You could also have gotten a tank of inferior gas.
Also check out the other things too, like the fuel filter,air filter, spark plugs and wires.
If you used to accelerate suddenly or peel out a lot, then it's likely that you've worn out your clutch disc faster than usual.
Think of sandpaper pressing against steel when you release your clutch to engage and create the friction needed to spin your axle and wheels. Now it's no longer sandpaper but more just paper.
Rather than gripping tightly against your flywheel as you accelerate, it's sliding against your flywheel and no longer allowing you to feel the initial full torque.
I changed my own clutch disc and pressure plate ($100 from your local auto parts store) for my '95 after about 190k miles. I think my '98 is also nearing that same stage.
You may need to consider changing your clutch disc and pressure plate within the next serveral thousand miles or when your shifter begins to feel difficult to get into gear.
Good luck!
This might be relevant: a couple weeks ago, my car died on me because the distributor was bad, so I got a new one. I think it drove fine after that. A couple days ago, I got an oil change and (I think they called it) a transmission flush. I didn't notice any difference after that, but I was also babying my car and wasn't pushing it performance-wise, so it could have been affected right away.
I want to place blame on the mechanic, but again, I didn't notice anything right away and I'd like to know just what the heck would cause this problem.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Well your question has many ';what if'; factors. The one that jumps at me is the trans service. How many miles does you're car have on it and when was the last time the trans was serviced? If it has been a long time or your car has high mileage what could be, and I mean could, is that the new transmission fluid is to clean. It happens on cars with high mileage or fluid that's not been changed enough. Inside the trans are seals that wear with age the old fluid was dirt and did not flow as well, you put in clean fluid and now the trans has a little internal leak that keeps the pressure low thus your car feels slow.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Some transmissions do not like a Flush because if can ruin seals both internal and external.
Another problem with a flush is that the filter does not get changed or cleaned. But generally the symptoms of failure are slippage and a racing motor (which is not what seems to be the problem here).
Now I am talking about an automatic.
But you could have a failing throttle cable/linkage. So check that out before you jump the mechanic.
You could also have gotten a tank of inferior gas.
Also check out the other things too, like the fuel filter,air filter, spark plugs and wires.
If you used to accelerate suddenly or peel out a lot, then it's likely that you've worn out your clutch disc faster than usual.
Think of sandpaper pressing against steel when you release your clutch to engage and create the friction needed to spin your axle and wheels. Now it's no longer sandpaper but more just paper.
Rather than gripping tightly against your flywheel as you accelerate, it's sliding against your flywheel and no longer allowing you to feel the initial full torque.
I changed my own clutch disc and pressure plate ($100 from your local auto parts store) for my '95 after about 190k miles. I think my '98 is also nearing that same stage.
You may need to consider changing your clutch disc and pressure plate within the next serveral thousand miles or when your shifter begins to feel difficult to get into gear.
Good luck!
How much Horsepower will i have?
If i take my 302 and add a true roller timing kit, a .512 lift hydraulic cam, an aluminum dual quad high rise intake with two edelbrock 600cfm carbs, roller rocker arms, shaved, ported and polished heads, bored .50 over, long tube headers, a racing radiator with a 6 blade fan, roller lifters, aftermarket valve springs, MSD 6 series ignition box, 8.5 mm wires, MSD distributor, new bearings, edelbrock victor series oil pump and an edelbrock victor series water pump, roughly how much horsepower will i be putting out? what if i change the cam to .548 lift?
oh and dont be too harsh cause there's no way i could ever come up with the money to do this so don't worry!How much Horsepower will i have?
leave the .512 cam and take the bore down to .040 over and add a 200 shot of nitrous and you will be close to 650-800hp depending on trans and suspension workHow much Horsepower will i have?
Your question is difficult to answer because you only list the cams lift. There's duration, intake centerline, overlap and many other things to consider. What is your compression ratio? Also, skip the 6-blade and run an electric.
oh and dont be too harsh cause there's no way i could ever come up with the money to do this so don't worry!How much Horsepower will i have?
leave the .512 cam and take the bore down to .040 over and add a 200 shot of nitrous and you will be close to 650-800hp depending on trans and suspension workHow much Horsepower will i have?
Your question is difficult to answer because you only list the cams lift. There's duration, intake centerline, overlap and many other things to consider. What is your compression ratio? Also, skip the 6-blade and run an electric.
Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
If we require insurance and have to pay for it for them, then aren't we also additional adding the admin cost and profits of the private insurance companies? IF you say they can afford the insurance then they are certainly are not able to stiff the hospital.
If the uninsured are already paying most of their own bills with the exception of catastrophic care, then aren't we going to lose those revenues from the heath care system.
If someone has insurance and can go to the local clinic then don't they go there to lower the bill by 90%. IF they don't care about the cost then that means they won't have the ability to pay or they are illegal. No change there, except now you have the profit company in the loop.
Okay you are angry, but don't you realize that your insurance cost will go up as a result. We are already paying all of the costs that we will pay anyways, but now you want to put a for profit distributor in the equation.
Please tell me how that creates savings?Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
Please don't talk sense on YA..it hurts peoples' brains to think.Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
And that us why the Public Option has to be in the equation, gives the benefits of lower cost at the primary care level and less costs at the ER level, and the benefits of increasing the size and range of the risk pool, without the for profit distributor in the equation.
yes its called medicaid
The public option is insurance that is offered by the government to people ,at an affordable rate, who don't have insurance. It will not make insurance rates go up. Instead it will make insurance rates go down. It is called competition. The insurance companies will be forced to start offering programs and rates comparable to what the government is offering. Without the public option they have no incentive to do anything.
My current situation is that I have had a heart attack and I am covered by insurance. However, if I need an operation, let's say a heart bypass, what stops my insurance company from denying that operation? What do I do then? Do I not get the operation or do I hock my house and everything I own? If I do the latter then I am homeless, elderly and destitute. At this time in my life I am not yet eligible for Medicare. So, you tell me who pays?
Yes we are. And it's a lousy system. That's why we need a health care plan that all will participate in.
Only after one or a family has liquidated most or all of their assets.
half of all bankruptcies are due to medical bills and half of those had medical insurance that ran out.
If the uninsured are already paying most of their own bills with the exception of catastrophic care, then aren't we going to lose those revenues from the heath care system.
If someone has insurance and can go to the local clinic then don't they go there to lower the bill by 90%. IF they don't care about the cost then that means they won't have the ability to pay or they are illegal. No change there, except now you have the profit company in the loop.
Okay you are angry, but don't you realize that your insurance cost will go up as a result. We are already paying all of the costs that we will pay anyways, but now you want to put a for profit distributor in the equation.
Please tell me how that creates savings?Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
Please don't talk sense on YA..it hurts peoples' brains to think.Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
And that us why the Public Option has to be in the equation, gives the benefits of lower cost at the primary care level and less costs at the ER level, and the benefits of increasing the size and range of the risk pool, without the for profit distributor in the equation.
yes its called medicaid
The public option is insurance that is offered by the government to people ,at an affordable rate, who don't have insurance. It will not make insurance rates go up. Instead it will make insurance rates go down. It is called competition. The insurance companies will be forced to start offering programs and rates comparable to what the government is offering. Without the public option they have no incentive to do anything.
My current situation is that I have had a heart attack and I am covered by insurance. However, if I need an operation, let's say a heart bypass, what stops my insurance company from denying that operation? What do I do then? Do I not get the operation or do I hock my house and everything I own? If I do the latter then I am homeless, elderly and destitute. At this time in my life I am not yet eligible for Medicare. So, you tell me who pays?
Yes we are. And it's a lousy system. That's why we need a health care plan that all will participate in.
Only after one or a family has liquidated most or all of their assets.
half of all bankruptcies are due to medical bills and half of those had medical insurance that ran out.
Car oil leak repair trouble?
My car (1993 Toyota camry), has slightly oil leak. I went to Toyota dealer for fix. after check, I was told there are 3 leaks, distributor O-ring, Valve seal and oil pan gasket. the main leak is from oil pan. so I decide to fix oil pan gasket, cost 300$. plus wheel adjust, change brakes, total $500. I put car in in the morning, will pick up after work. but at afternoon, I was told they fixed the gasket, after driving test there is still leak, they have redo the work. I have to wait to next day.
Next day, when I pick up car, Service guy told me they found another leak, main seal, to fix it costing 1000$. I suspicious they try to make me spend more money, and I did not see much oil on the bottom. So I said I can afford that cost. I will keep eye on it.
Just I drive out of the shop, on the way I found smoke came out under hood, I drove back, service guy told me it was oil drip on exhaust cause the smoke. I said OK, I'll keep eye on it.
In the following weekend, my wife and I could still sense the burning smell. On Monday I drive to the shop, service guy lift car in air to make sure that's oil burn. To my surprise, there is oil collected under the car, He told me it's main seal leak. I said I never has this problem before, how come after your repair my gasket, then there is this problem out standing? He said, '; you mean to fix gasket, cause this leak? No, they are not related, main seal is up up on top. the repair made the leak worse? It's possible, we can give you $300 credit, so you have to pay $700 to fix the main seal leak. ';
I have no experience how to deal with this case, I said I could pay another $200 to fix main seal leak. He would take it. I want to talk to their manager. I want to hear from your suggestion, what should I do?
Apparently, they made my car a new problem but they won't admit.Car oil leak repair trouble?
Check to see if they are a member of the BBB. If they are get there BBB # and turn them in. If not call the states attorney generals office and go from there. Some red tape But, you do want to be vindicatedCar oil leak repair trouble?
The main seal leak is not related to their repair, What they did was not realize you also had a main seal leak until the oilpan was off. I think their offer is very fair and they are trying to resolve the problem in a fair way with the $300 credit. The seal they are talking about is around the rear of the crankshaft, and involves a lot more than just taking off the oil pan. If you don't fix it, engine could catch fire or you'll get nauseated from the oil fumes . Sometimes the truth is hard, but it's the truth.
Unfortunately with oil leaks, once you repair one, another springs a leak. Reason being: when all seals are in tact and not leaking, there is pressure within the system. Once you get a leak in an older (more than 5-10 years old) car and you have a gasket, seal or O-ring replaced, the pressure, now added back to the system, can blow out another gasket, seal or O-Ring. The dollars spent to completely repair this type of aggravation can get costly and usually costs more than the vehicle is worth. When the 'main seal' has gone, it is time to start considering buying another vehicle.
In your above case, it sounds like the garage is trying to make money off of you - nickel and dime turns into thousands in the long run. We'll just say they are probably giving you half truths. Keep pestering the manager if you want to work done
If you are concerned about trading in a vehicle with an oil leak and feel it would reduce the value - here's a little trick - and only to use when you bring it to trade in - Marvel Mystery Oil - 1 teaspoon (and no more)directly into your oil (this will 'expand' gaskets/seals just enough) - drive the car to a self wash car wash - clean the engine and drive right to the dealer - I know, sneaky, but then again you are the one trying to get rid of a headache.
Next day, when I pick up car, Service guy told me they found another leak, main seal, to fix it costing 1000$. I suspicious they try to make me spend more money, and I did not see much oil on the bottom. So I said I can afford that cost. I will keep eye on it.
Just I drive out of the shop, on the way I found smoke came out under hood, I drove back, service guy told me it was oil drip on exhaust cause the smoke. I said OK, I'll keep eye on it.
In the following weekend, my wife and I could still sense the burning smell. On Monday I drive to the shop, service guy lift car in air to make sure that's oil burn. To my surprise, there is oil collected under the car, He told me it's main seal leak. I said I never has this problem before, how come after your repair my gasket, then there is this problem out standing? He said, '; you mean to fix gasket, cause this leak? No, they are not related, main seal is up up on top. the repair made the leak worse? It's possible, we can give you $300 credit, so you have to pay $700 to fix the main seal leak. ';
I have no experience how to deal with this case, I said I could pay another $200 to fix main seal leak. He would take it. I want to talk to their manager. I want to hear from your suggestion, what should I do?
Apparently, they made my car a new problem but they won't admit.Car oil leak repair trouble?
Check to see if they are a member of the BBB. If they are get there BBB # and turn them in. If not call the states attorney generals office and go from there. Some red tape But, you do want to be vindicatedCar oil leak repair trouble?
The main seal leak is not related to their repair, What they did was not realize you also had a main seal leak until the oilpan was off. I think their offer is very fair and they are trying to resolve the problem in a fair way with the $300 credit. The seal they are talking about is around the rear of the crankshaft, and involves a lot more than just taking off the oil pan. If you don't fix it, engine could catch fire or you'll get nauseated from the oil fumes . Sometimes the truth is hard, but it's the truth.
Unfortunately with oil leaks, once you repair one, another springs a leak. Reason being: when all seals are in tact and not leaking, there is pressure within the system. Once you get a leak in an older (more than 5-10 years old) car and you have a gasket, seal or O-ring replaced, the pressure, now added back to the system, can blow out another gasket, seal or O-Ring. The dollars spent to completely repair this type of aggravation can get costly and usually costs more than the vehicle is worth. When the 'main seal' has gone, it is time to start considering buying another vehicle.
In your above case, it sounds like the garage is trying to make money off of you - nickel and dime turns into thousands in the long run. We'll just say they are probably giving you half truths. Keep pestering the manager if you want to work done
If you are concerned about trading in a vehicle with an oil leak and feel it would reduce the value - here's a little trick - and only to use when you bring it to trade in - Marvel Mystery Oil - 1 teaspoon (and no more)directly into your oil (this will 'expand' gaskets/seals just enough) - drive the car to a self wash car wash - clean the engine and drive right to the dealer - I know, sneaky, but then again you are the one trying to get rid of a headache.
How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
hi
i pluged in the OBD11 to check my car
it come up with 02 sensor circuit what it means oxigen sensor cat need to be change
well i did change them but now does not start
engine rotates but it just does not start,(it is a bmw 323i1 1998 6 cilynders) the cat did NOT smell like bad like rotten egg,so i belive the cat is not plugged,how can i find out what the problem is without removing starter-akternator-distributor?
is there any way to know whats is wrong? i pluged in again the obd11 and does not show anything but 02 sensor which i replaced alreadyHow to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
Plug in the OBD 12 then if that doent work try the HSC55.scratching your head also works sometimes........What in heavans name are you talking about .Go to a BMW service centre they will identify the problem in 20 mins.How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
WHEN YOU PLUG IN THE OBD II , IT WILL ONLY GIVE YOU A CODE. SINCE YOU DID NOT STATE WHAT KIND OF CODE IT IS, I CANNOT HELP YOU. WHEN YOU HAVE A OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT PROBLEM, IT DOES NOT MEAN THE SENSOR IS BAD. IT COULD BE A VACCUM LEAK, NO POWER OR GROUND CIRCUIT TO THE SENSOR,LEAK FUEL INJECTORS, ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM , FUEL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION,OR OTHER ENGINE SENSOR MALFUNCTION. SINCE YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START, YOU HAVE ANOTHER DIFFERENT PROBLEM. THIS REQUIRE A SCAN TOOL THAT SHOW ENGINE DATA BESIDE THE ENGINE CODE, IT WILL HAVE VOLTMETER AND A LABSCOPE TO TEST SENSORS AND CIRCUIT. THIS TOOL COST ABOUT 6000.00 US. DOLLARScan dogs eat celery horses
i pluged in the OBD11 to check my car
it come up with 02 sensor circuit what it means oxigen sensor cat need to be change
well i did change them but now does not start
engine rotates but it just does not start,(it is a bmw 323i1 1998 6 cilynders) the cat did NOT smell like bad like rotten egg,so i belive the cat is not plugged,how can i find out what the problem is without removing starter-akternator-distributor?
is there any way to know whats is wrong? i pluged in again the obd11 and does not show anything but 02 sensor which i replaced alreadyHow to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
Plug in the OBD 12 then if that doent work try the HSC55.scratching your head also works sometimes........What in heavans name are you talking about .Go to a BMW service centre they will identify the problem in 20 mins.How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
WHEN YOU PLUG IN THE OBD II , IT WILL ONLY GIVE YOU A CODE. SINCE YOU DID NOT STATE WHAT KIND OF CODE IT IS, I CANNOT HELP YOU. WHEN YOU HAVE A OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT PROBLEM, IT DOES NOT MEAN THE SENSOR IS BAD. IT COULD BE A VACCUM LEAK, NO POWER OR GROUND CIRCUIT TO THE SENSOR,LEAK FUEL INJECTORS, ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM , FUEL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION,OR OTHER ENGINE SENSOR MALFUNCTION. SINCE YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START, YOU HAVE ANOTHER DIFFERENT PROBLEM. THIS REQUIRE A SCAN TOOL THAT SHOW ENGINE DATA BESIDE THE ENGINE CODE, IT WILL HAVE VOLTMETER AND A LABSCOPE TO TEST SENSORS AND CIRCUIT. THIS TOOL COST ABOUT 6000.00 US. DOLLARS
How to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
I just bought a 1990 ford f150 2 days ago. its in very nice condition, been running well. i bought it from a friend so i know its a great truck no doubt. heres the thing. yesterday i washed the truck exterior then some under the hood. after that i started it just fine and parked it. later on i drove it home for 20 miles. it did cut off one time and was a little hard to get back going. it felt like it had water in the cap and rotor. it finally started up and kept running. it was so cold out and i was ready to leave. this morning i started the truck up to let it run and warm the heater. after 10 minutes i heard it shut off. after i got my boots on and all ready to leave for work. i restarted the truck with a small hesitation. i drove it less than a 1/4 mile and it shut off and tried all day and still hasnt started.
i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..
i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..
What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Is there any way to disable the spell checker while you're writing answers? I need it once in a while, but usually it's just ignorant and distracting. ';Camaro';, (spell check just popped on, lol) for example. I know how to spell ';Camaro';. There's no ';e'; in ';Camaro';. I use ';Camaro'; in many of my answers. And every time I do, the spell check tells me to change it to ';Camry';. I don't THINK so.
And yet, the last answer I gave had the word ';munged'; in it. As in ';My distributor cap was all munged up.';
Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think ';Camaro'; or ';Monza'; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than ';munged';?
I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change ';spellcheck'; to ';spell check';.
Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click ';Add to Dictionary';).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.
If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyed
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and airtech-streamlining.com drives the machine into overdrive
And yet, the last answer I gave had the word ';munged'; in it. As in ';My distributor cap was all munged up.';
Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think ';Camaro'; or ';Monza'; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than ';munged';?
I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change ';spellcheck'; to ';spell check';.
Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click ';Add to Dictionary';).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.
If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyed
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and airtech-streamlining.com drives the machine into overdrive
Malinda isn't the inferior composite made for breaking attached to certain gas pumps that you were supposed to?
be monitoring?
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/columns/col8.h
The entire northern province should know that the pertol stations have been outfitted with defective pumping mechanisms and that when the ENGINEER (not Rajapaksa friend and relation) informed that a much better model was available (and probably could have been ordered through the same distributor as the country of origin was the same) that the Engineer was summarily dismissed and the Rajapaksa associates response was to try and besmirch a former Supreme Court Justice who had readily stood up against the Rajapaksa/Wickremesinghe/Kumaratunga remedial school of existence and unlawful government practices. Do not be remedial for Rajapaksa - Vote for Change. BTW Malinda consider yourself fired.
I would say that Rajapaksa does not believe that all communities are equal or that they deserve the best for if he did he would not allow his unscrupulous henchmen to be controlling these national projects at the huge loss and inconvenience to people in the North.
http://www.colombopage.com/archive_10/Ja
I would also stay off the stock market because these same crooks will be boosting more money since they have now recapitalized each of their own pet banks instead of paying back Gold Key depositors et al. 700K votes for change. 700K votes to implement checks and balances. 700K votes for not bilking the public at every turn. Matara I am asking you for 700K votes, Negombo, I am asking you for 700K votes, Kandy I am asking you for 700K votes, Kurunegala, I am asking you for 700K votes and Jaffna I am asking you for 700,000 votes because as a grown woman I can choose to eat one time a day but these children of yours will not be growing up smart and strong unless they have three meals, that you have every right to demand the ouster of presidential appointees that are utilizing funds to promote prostitution instead of education, that there is no reason that a legitimate leader would overnight remove a HSZ without first disarming the EDPD - why is Rajapaksa behaving in that manner because he is entrenched with the same diabolical forces that have actively participated in repressing ordinary citizen's rights and if we don't effect accountability, transparency and right of redress at this very juncture for whatever obtuse actions are carried out by Rajapaksa and Co. that we will certainly once again be in a position of politicians of the worst calibre again being able to press your communities into reactivating militant behaviour. What all your communities need to know is that as far as the Gold Key/Ceylinco/Seylan imbroglio was concerned that there were active measures taken on the behalf of our sovereign nation so that depositors had earmarked funds available for repayment and that Cecile/Lalith and co. could be brought to books - those funds were used to fatten bank balances instead of bringing rehabilitative compensation to not only the persons affected but also to IDP populations. These funds now are now rumored to be walking out the door in the hands of Rajapaksa associates and Rajapaksa is pretending that he does not know how to properly proceed in an order to have this woman returned to face charges. If you wonder what this has to do with you the reality is that the money that went into these banks is being used to make you take loans instead of reimbursing or repairing the damages that were done to you by the very same government. The reason that this repetetive behaviour occurs is because the government refuses to be accountable to the people and the President seems to think that he is free to do whatever he wishes and he is not. Rajapaksa is not a ruler he is just a very dishonest and unconstitutionally bound politician that needs to be shown the door. In the meantime there are reports coming from Saudi Arabia that the Sri Lanka embassy is encouraging domestics to break their contracts, resort to prostitution in a country where such offense is punishable by death. What is wrong with the Kumaratunge, Wickremesinghe, Rajapaksa equation when they all have certain power at Sri Lanka Airlines and at the embassy that they do not as promised return these domestics to Sri Lanka instead of having them camp under bridges and then be corraled by embassy personel to work a illegal profession that can certainly result in them being executed.
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/news/laknew4.h
Wasn't it the Rajapaksa administration that brought back all the criminal elements for ';election activity';?
http://www.srilankaguardian.org/2010/01/
with 5.2B in foreign exchanges and a new unqualified/no bid loan contract for 6.2B against a new monetary policy set by the CB none of these loans should be approved on a no bid basis. Since there is no emergency situation regarding these waterworks projects a second and third bid package would need to be considered.
http://www.lankabusinessonline.com/fullsMalinda isn't the inferior composite made for breaking attached to certain gas pumps that you were supposed to?
well yes
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/columns/col8.h
The entire northern province should know that the pertol stations have been outfitted with defective pumping mechanisms and that when the ENGINEER (not Rajapaksa friend and relation) informed that a much better model was available (and probably could have been ordered through the same distributor as the country of origin was the same) that the Engineer was summarily dismissed and the Rajapaksa associates response was to try and besmirch a former Supreme Court Justice who had readily stood up against the Rajapaksa/Wickremesinghe/Kumaratunga remedial school of existence and unlawful government practices. Do not be remedial for Rajapaksa - Vote for Change. BTW Malinda consider yourself fired.
I would say that Rajapaksa does not believe that all communities are equal or that they deserve the best for if he did he would not allow his unscrupulous henchmen to be controlling these national projects at the huge loss and inconvenience to people in the North.
http://www.colombopage.com/archive_10/Ja
I would also stay off the stock market because these same crooks will be boosting more money since they have now recapitalized each of their own pet banks instead of paying back Gold Key depositors et al. 700K votes for change. 700K votes to implement checks and balances. 700K votes for not bilking the public at every turn. Matara I am asking you for 700K votes, Negombo, I am asking you for 700K votes, Kandy I am asking you for 700K votes, Kurunegala, I am asking you for 700K votes and Jaffna I am asking you for 700,000 votes because as a grown woman I can choose to eat one time a day but these children of yours will not be growing up smart and strong unless they have three meals, that you have every right to demand the ouster of presidential appointees that are utilizing funds to promote prostitution instead of education, that there is no reason that a legitimate leader would overnight remove a HSZ without first disarming the EDPD - why is Rajapaksa behaving in that manner because he is entrenched with the same diabolical forces that have actively participated in repressing ordinary citizen's rights and if we don't effect accountability, transparency and right of redress at this very juncture for whatever obtuse actions are carried out by Rajapaksa and Co. that we will certainly once again be in a position of politicians of the worst calibre again being able to press your communities into reactivating militant behaviour. What all your communities need to know is that as far as the Gold Key/Ceylinco/Seylan imbroglio was concerned that there were active measures taken on the behalf of our sovereign nation so that depositors had earmarked funds available for repayment and that Cecile/Lalith and co. could be brought to books - those funds were used to fatten bank balances instead of bringing rehabilitative compensation to not only the persons affected but also to IDP populations. These funds now are now rumored to be walking out the door in the hands of Rajapaksa associates and Rajapaksa is pretending that he does not know how to properly proceed in an order to have this woman returned to face charges. If you wonder what this has to do with you the reality is that the money that went into these banks is being used to make you take loans instead of reimbursing or repairing the damages that were done to you by the very same government. The reason that this repetetive behaviour occurs is because the government refuses to be accountable to the people and the President seems to think that he is free to do whatever he wishes and he is not. Rajapaksa is not a ruler he is just a very dishonest and unconstitutionally bound politician that needs to be shown the door. In the meantime there are reports coming from Saudi Arabia that the Sri Lanka embassy is encouraging domestics to break their contracts, resort to prostitution in a country where such offense is punishable by death. What is wrong with the Kumaratunge, Wickremesinghe, Rajapaksa equation when they all have certain power at Sri Lanka Airlines and at the embassy that they do not as promised return these domestics to Sri Lanka instead of having them camp under bridges and then be corraled by embassy personel to work a illegal profession that can certainly result in them being executed.
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/news/laknew4.h
Wasn't it the Rajapaksa administration that brought back all the criminal elements for ';election activity';?
http://www.srilankaguardian.org/2010/01/
with 5.2B in foreign exchanges and a new unqualified/no bid loan contract for 6.2B against a new monetary policy set by the CB none of these loans should be approved on a no bid basis. Since there is no emergency situation regarding these waterworks projects a second and third bid package would need to be considered.
http://www.lankabusinessonline.com/fullsMalinda isn't the inferior composite made for breaking attached to certain gas pumps that you were supposed to?
well yes
I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Hello, its me with my 1995 Ford Escort 1.9L Auto again! I have an update: I dont think its the Alternator (why the battery light came on once is beyond me. Could it be I have a Ford?) :) And it runs... but when I am in 'D' or 'R' or any drive gear, I need to put it in Neutral (or Park whe its not moving) and give it gas to avoid it stalling.
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
I replaced distributor, installed new plugs and wires, I am getting spark to plugs and fuel to carb--The car backfired then would not start it was a cold start I then replaced pick up coil, ignition module, cap, roter, plugs and wires. I marked distributor when I removed it and put it back in position. I have not checked timing, but it is getting fire from Dist. to plugs.--The car was running the day before, the next morning I went to start it to warm it up, it backfired in the carb and then would not start. How would the timing get off? I did not change any parts on the Dist. before the issue. What is the easiest method to get the #1 cylinder to top, motor is in car?--Firing order is 153624, timing is 6 degrees.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.fight man for control of remedy for acne scars
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
I replaced distributor, installed new plugs and wires, I am getting spark to plugs and fuel to carb--The car backfired then would not start it was a cold start I then replaced pick up coil, ignition module, cap, roter, plugs and wires. I marked distributor when I removed it and put it back in position. I have not checked timing, but it is getting fire from Dist. to plugs.--The car was running the day before, the next morning I went to start it to warm it up, it backfired in the carb and then would not start. How would the timing get off? I did not change any parts on the Dist. before the issue. What is the easiest method to get the #1 cylinder to top, motor is in car?--Firing order is 153624, timing is 6 degrees.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.
Excel help, need to update my product database?
so here is my situation.
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
Excel help for my business product management.!?
so here is my situation.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
i have found what will be my first car (in a junkyard now). it needs floor pans, some interior work, bondo, blocking, and paint but for the most part, it is worth the money. everything is straight and it only has surface rust. it also has the one year only 1300cc flat 4 VW engine. the great thing about these old VWs is that parts are abundant and cheap (those floor pans are only $220 and bolt in).
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
---
Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from therescene hair oily skin care
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
---
Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
I took my car in to Tunex today, although it seems that all they did was charge me $90 to change my spark plugs, I would like to verify they timed it correctly. I have a timing light (induction) and I have marked the guage to see it. My question is where do I disable the advance (EST bypass) Stupid haynes manual just states I should follow the tag under the hood, and the tag says to put the EST in bypass mode..... How would I do this. I tried disconnecting each (seperately) the plugs on the distributor, but it wouldnt start. It has 2 for the module, and one lower (dont know what that is, but it ran the same without it) Right now, it is idling at about 12 deg. BTDC, but the tag states it should be 0 (TDC)92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
There should be a tan wire with a black tracer (stripe) under the dash on the pass. side near the heater box. That will put the timing in bypass mode.92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
Look for a black/orange stripe wire. Unplug.
- - -
There should be a tan wire with a black tracer (stripe) under the dash on the pass. side near the heater box. That will put the timing in bypass mode.92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
Look for a black/orange stripe wire. Unplug.
- - -
How long until my transmission goes out?
I have a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse. I'm a mechanic and I specialize in Jaguar, Volvo and Land Rovers. I'm also ASE certified so don't mind using automotive terminology. I have been doing all my oil changes, with eueropean synthetic, and all the maintainance. The car has 135000 miles and has a techtronic 4 speed transmission. Can this car make it until 150000? or am I driving it on borrowed time? The transmission has Mobil one Synthetic transmission fluid (Yes I know Amsoil is better), and the car hard shifts into reverse. Im asking this to know if I should do the big maintainance and a engine overhaul (change all the seals, resurface the heads if I have to) spark plugs, timing belt, wires, distributor cap and all that. I dont wanna do it and have the tranny go out. So.... will it?How long until my transmission goes out?
My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.
My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.
Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
I have a 1992 civic. D16z6. When i drive it, the car starts sputtering, and when it idles i'll give it gas it does the same thing. I took it somewhere to get fixed, and he said it was a bad fuel pressure regulator, so he fixed it with a used one. i drove it to florida from pennsylvania, drove it some more, then drove back. That's about 4000 miles, and now it's doing it again, so I bought a brand new fuel pressure regulator, and it's STILL doing it. I've changed the spark plug wires, (the plugs look fine) the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and distributor. I don't know what else it could be. The only thing i could think is i didn't change the cap and rotor, but idk....Any thoughts on how i can put this problem to an end?Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
TRY CHANGING THE FUEL FILTERCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
you forgot the fuel filter.
O2 sensor
Cap and rotor should have been changed with the distributor. Have you changed your fuel filter?
TRY CHANGING THE FUEL FILTERCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
you forgot the fuel filter.
O2 sensor
Cap and rotor should have been changed with the distributor. Have you changed your fuel filter?
How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
I have a 94 Sentra with a rough/fluctuating/inconsistent idle. It stated out that the car would shake and jerk and all kinds of funky stuff while it was under lite load, and progressed to the point where it would stall out when stopped at a light.
I have given it a full tune up including new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor button, new fuel filter, cleaned out the air filter, oil change with Marvel's Mystery oil (in both tank and oil). I have replaced the clutch (pressure plate and throw out bearing). And I have thoroughly cleaned out the AAC valve, EGR valve, and PCV valve.
Each time I fix something it gets better and seems to be fixed for good, but the next time i start up, it's back the way it was. I am out of ideas and need help! I know this is a common problem with Sentras, but every suggestion I find leads me back to square 1. PLEASE HELP!!!How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
You must replace the primary johnson rod couplings with a matrix alternator feed line.How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
It could be poor compression in one of the cylinders. I'd take it to a Nissan dealership and get it diagnosed.
I have given it a full tune up including new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor button, new fuel filter, cleaned out the air filter, oil change with Marvel's Mystery oil (in both tank and oil). I have replaced the clutch (pressure plate and throw out bearing). And I have thoroughly cleaned out the AAC valve, EGR valve, and PCV valve.
Each time I fix something it gets better and seems to be fixed for good, but the next time i start up, it's back the way it was. I am out of ideas and need help! I know this is a common problem with Sentras, but every suggestion I find leads me back to square 1. PLEASE HELP!!!How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
You must replace the primary johnson rod couplings with a matrix alternator feed line.How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
It could be poor compression in one of the cylinders. I'd take it to a Nissan dealership and get it diagnosed.
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
I have read some of the responses here, and have replaced the ignition module, the coil, plugs, wires.
I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!
I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!
any help is appreciated
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.Why do bed sheets shed ask for at a nail salon
I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!
I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!
any help is appreciated
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.
1965 Impala points need to be changed?
My buddy just got a 65 impala from a friend and the guy said that the points need to be changed. The guy had a tune up on it, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, and the car wants to turn over but just wont. Any ideas? And if it is the points how do we go about changing them? Also one of the back wheels will not turn, not sure why, they had to drag it onto a trailer. Possibly just needs to be cleaned with braked cleaner or something to loosen up the wheel because I think the car has been sitting for a pretty good time. Any suggestions?1965 Impala points need to be changed?
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.
What could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
I can't get the check engine light to go out. I've checked all the fuilds they are all good. I've put a new distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Then took it to a mechanic to change to oil because it smelt like gas they ran a diagnostic test on it and it came back says to change the ECM fuse which they did and then they ran it again and go a code 52 and they couldn't find what would cause that code. then after they put the ECM fuse in the car started to stall. they told us it could be something with the fuel pressure or something since my dad just put a new fuel pump in last weekend. so we took it home and checked the fuel pressure, pump and filter. there was nothing wrong with that.
does anyone have any ideas how to fix itWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Believe it or not the check engine light can come on because of a bad fuel cap. I had this happen once.
9 times out of 10 the check engine light is on due to some sort of pollution control failure.
The second time mine come on i ran 2 tanks of super grade fuel and the light went out so you can try that also.
hope this helps
russWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Yeah, try to snip that light. If it's running good and a mechanic can't find it. Might as well do something about that light
Put a good ODB1 scanner on it and check the dealer or GM website for vehicle specific coding. A good scanner will record all info and tell you what is causing the problem
does anyone have any ideas how to fix itWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Believe it or not the check engine light can come on because of a bad fuel cap. I had this happen once.
9 times out of 10 the check engine light is on due to some sort of pollution control failure.
The second time mine come on i ran 2 tanks of super grade fuel and the light went out so you can try that also.
hope this helps
russWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Yeah, try to snip that light. If it's running good and a mechanic can't find it. Might as well do something about that light
Put a good ODB1 scanner on it and check the dealer or GM website for vehicle specific coding. A good scanner will record all info and tell you what is causing the problem
TUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Hey there I have a 1997 cadillac sts 4.6L v8 32 north-star and my question is what is the best type of spark plugs and wires, with a somewhat of a tight budget, and a another question is i have noticed that there is not distributor, but it looks like a coil pack and does that needs to be changed as well, when i change the spark plugs and wires and how much does those coils are and thank you for your answersTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not ';start'; to go out.
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not ';start'; to go out.
Need Help Editing Samba?
I need help editing samba I am a newbe to Linux. Ubuntu is my distributor. I want to share files between a couple windows machines running xp and I want my Linux machine to be able to share printers and file between my windows machines. I can find and see the samba config file but i cant edit it. My xp computers can see the Linux machine but cant access it because it needs a user name and password. Thats why i want to be able to edit the config file for samba. Please I need step by step instructions on how to edit samba and change the config file so i can browse and write files to the linux computers.Need Help Editing Samba?
what is samba
what is samba
1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
I am debating on changing my oxygen sensor in my 1990 dodge ram d150 5.2l. My engine stalls when I am idling in every position EXCEPT park. Park works great. It will not stall if I give it a steady stream of gas. My truck hates stop lights and stop signs.. haha...
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways firstlong hair styles can a cable company do this
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways first
Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
I have a 98 Jeep grand cherokee, and i noticed it hasnt been shifting very well anymore, usually has a delayed shift to it on 2nd and 3rd gear. I decited to run the car for awhile and check the transmission fluid and it was very low. So i filled it back up to the OK mark and it shifts fine now.
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.
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