First of all it is a 1995 camry with 79000 miles on it. It has always run fine until one day it just started to feel like the engine was missing around 45-50 mph and when you idle or reverse. So, we took it to a mechanic who said it was tune up work. The spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter were all changed. We also ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas and replaced a broken tortion control mount. The problem persisted so we ended up having to take it to another mechanic who said I had a broken engine mount. So, he replaced that and balanced my tires. The problem still persisted, although it wasn't as bad it's still frustrating to spend this much money and have the same problem. So the question is what could be wrong with it and how can it be fixed? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks!Two mechanics and no luck?
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
A car engine question?
okay, let me start off by saying that about all i know about fixing cars is how to change the anti-freeze, the spark plugs, those wire going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs, the battery, and i could probably change the oil if i had a lift or something to get my car high enough off the ground and the tools to do it. i drive a 2000 honda accord, and i'm interested in maybe having work done to increase the compression ratio of my engine. for those of you who know, i was just wondering if, keeping my above skills in mind, i could maybe do that myself or if i should take my car to a shop and have the job done by someone with more experience.A car engine question?
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Who sets the prices?
How do all these gas stations know in minutes what to change their prices to? Does the ownership call them every day after they call the distributor and if so then it's the same dern gas in the tank, right?Who sets the prices?
Price fixingcat the best way to get odor out of blankets
Price fixing
Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
How hard is it to change a valve cover gasket on a 3.0 doch. Its a stratus, I looked anb the distributor is up there does it come out too? please help cant afford $70. or $90. an hour need to do my self. I have some no how.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.
How ignition leads can get broken?
recently (2 months ago) i replaced spark plug cables with a new supposedly oem part days ago i have noticed that 3 out of six are already faulty causing missfire , i prepare myself to change them again but i want to know what can be the cause.. spark plugs and distributor components are in good order leads are not damaged just loose resistance and cause visible in dark spark jump along the insulation..How ignition leads can get broken?
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
The rotor is in the way. I was told if I bump the key over, it could possibly rotate the rotor enough, so that the lip moves to the other side and the I can remove the ICM. DOes this sound right. and when I do this does the distributor cap need to be on or off?When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
STOP.....STOP.....
That is NOT the ICM in the distributor, (this is not 1975)
The sensor in the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position sensor)
DO NOT TOUCH THIS......
The ICM is located on the right side of the intake right in front of the ignition coil...When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
Take the distributor cap off, then pull off the rotor and you can get to the ignition control module. Good time to install a new rotor, cap, and wires. Make sure you put a good coating of dielectric grease under the ignition control module before you install it.
STOP.....STOP.....
That is NOT the ICM in the distributor, (this is not 1975)
The sensor in the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position sensor)
DO NOT TOUCH THIS......
The ICM is located on the right side of the intake right in front of the ignition coil...When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
Take the distributor cap off, then pull off the rotor and you can get to the ignition control module. Good time to install a new rotor, cap, and wires. Make sure you put a good coating of dielectric grease under the ignition control module before you install it.
What's wrong with my car?
I have a 94 toyota corolla, with 195,000 miles on it. I just got the oil changed today and the spark plugs and now im having hard time accelerating. It takes for ever to get to the 45 mph and once it does it drops back down to 35mph and will stay there not matter how hard i push the gas.
*I have noticed the gas and brake pedal seems harder to push.
*I have took the car to get checked and they told me the transmission is going bad (but is that the problem)
*My car died while i was driving a few weeks ago, and they said it was the Distributor so i replaced the distributoror, the cap, and spark wires.
*earlier this wk the check engine light came on, so i took the fuse out(and put it back in) because i was told that resets the system and the light hasn't come on again ( could this have something to do with it?)What's wrong with my car?
sounds like your tranny is slipping and your fuel injector is gunked up. also if it is an automatic with electric overdrive and revs at high RPM's especially on the highway, it is a sign that your computer is shot. the electric overdrive is what gets the car to go from 3rd gear to the other gears its supposed to when you obtain higher speeds over 30 mph.What's wrong with my car?
dont you just hate non answers from idiots , like get a new car that sort of thing ? you sond like you have miltiple problems , has a garage realy looked at it for a start or a reliable frend ,that would be good, oil changing would have no consiquence on any of your problems by the way, you say you have changed the distributer and this sounds like the problem with the loss of power if you have fitted it your self and not set it right , we could talk about specialist equipment all day but i doubt it would mean much and doubt you have it ,slaken the bolts off tourn it a touch iether way providing the engine doesnt stop tightn the bolts and take for a little drive and try to keep out of the way of people if youv not much power see if you get any more power, the ideal manual may would be do it while its running , but be aware that touching the ht leads (high tention ) leads can be fatal if the engines running ,, turn anticlockwise then slowly turn clockwise until the engine speeds up a little when the engine starts to slow turn back a touch then tighteen the boldt back up this would be a realy good starting point and near as dam it, this is presiming the plug leads ar on the right way, heave throttle ? no idea without looking heavy brakes ? maybe the servo pipe is trapped under somthing when a mechanic has looked at it this could cause heavy breaks ,try jakking a wheel up at a time and see if the brakes are binding hope this helps , your toyota should be good for 300000 if looked after
If it started immediately after getting the oil changed, I would suspect that they used the e-brake and either it is still on or you have a stuck cable. This could cause the brake pedal to be harder to push, but probably only after you've driven the car a bit. With both pedals being harder to push, I'd kind of suspect something might be binding behind them like the floor mat, carpet or insulation.
Check to make sure (when the engine is cool) that all of the spark plug wires are on tight. Also check to make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are in good shape (this could cause your poor acceleration *and* your brakes to lose their power boost). Check your distributor to make sure that it isn't loose.
If the check engine light comes on again, don't reset the computer, have the fault code read someplace. AutoZone will check them for free, but don't take their word 100% for what the codes mean. They can clear them again without resetting your computer (that's a good thing).
_
did your mechanic installed bosch sparkplugs ?
if so, remove it and install ';denso'; sparkplugs.
japanese cars need japanese sparkplugs.
what is your car engine ? engine type / model ? 4A-FE or 5A- OR 7A?
did you experience hard acceleration before tune-up or after the tune up work?
if after, wrong tune-up procedure or parts.
if before, check transmission oil level for automatic trans.
for manual, could be clutch problem.
check also engine ignition timing, use timing light for this to correct,
check/replace dirtyor clogged air filter element
check for any dragging brakes.
check /replace fuel filter
check/ throttle settings.
check if mechanic working on your car is qualified !
your problem is you have a 94 corolla with 195000 miles on it hahaha i think its time to let it go and upgrade to a new car. any money you have to put into this car will be worth more than the car itself
*I have noticed the gas and brake pedal seems harder to push.
*I have took the car to get checked and they told me the transmission is going bad (but is that the problem)
*My car died while i was driving a few weeks ago, and they said it was the Distributor so i replaced the distributoror, the cap, and spark wires.
*earlier this wk the check engine light came on, so i took the fuse out(and put it back in) because i was told that resets the system and the light hasn't come on again ( could this have something to do with it?)What's wrong with my car?
sounds like your tranny is slipping and your fuel injector is gunked up. also if it is an automatic with electric overdrive and revs at high RPM's especially on the highway, it is a sign that your computer is shot. the electric overdrive is what gets the car to go from 3rd gear to the other gears its supposed to when you obtain higher speeds over 30 mph.What's wrong with my car?
dont you just hate non answers from idiots , like get a new car that sort of thing ? you sond like you have miltiple problems , has a garage realy looked at it for a start or a reliable frend ,that would be good, oil changing would have no consiquence on any of your problems by the way, you say you have changed the distributer and this sounds like the problem with the loss of power if you have fitted it your self and not set it right , we could talk about specialist equipment all day but i doubt it would mean much and doubt you have it ,slaken the bolts off tourn it a touch iether way providing the engine doesnt stop tightn the bolts and take for a little drive and try to keep out of the way of people if youv not much power see if you get any more power, the ideal manual may would be do it while its running , but be aware that touching the ht leads (high tention ) leads can be fatal if the engines running ,, turn anticlockwise then slowly turn clockwise until the engine speeds up a little when the engine starts to slow turn back a touch then tighteen the boldt back up this would be a realy good starting point and near as dam it, this is presiming the plug leads ar on the right way, heave throttle ? no idea without looking heavy brakes ? maybe the servo pipe is trapped under somthing when a mechanic has looked at it this could cause heavy breaks ,try jakking a wheel up at a time and see if the brakes are binding hope this helps , your toyota should be good for 300000 if looked after
If it started immediately after getting the oil changed, I would suspect that they used the e-brake and either it is still on or you have a stuck cable. This could cause the brake pedal to be harder to push, but probably only after you've driven the car a bit. With both pedals being harder to push, I'd kind of suspect something might be binding behind them like the floor mat, carpet or insulation.
Check to make sure (when the engine is cool) that all of the spark plug wires are on tight. Also check to make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are in good shape (this could cause your poor acceleration *and* your brakes to lose their power boost). Check your distributor to make sure that it isn't loose.
If the check engine light comes on again, don't reset the computer, have the fault code read someplace. AutoZone will check them for free, but don't take their word 100% for what the codes mean. They can clear them again without resetting your computer (that's a good thing).
_
did your mechanic installed bosch sparkplugs ?
if so, remove it and install ';denso'; sparkplugs.
japanese cars need japanese sparkplugs.
what is your car engine ? engine type / model ? 4A-FE or 5A- OR 7A?
did you experience hard acceleration before tune-up or after the tune up work?
if after, wrong tune-up procedure or parts.
if before, check transmission oil level for automatic trans.
for manual, could be clutch problem.
check also engine ignition timing, use timing light for this to correct,
check/replace dirtyor clogged air filter element
check for any dragging brakes.
check /replace fuel filter
check/ throttle settings.
check if mechanic working on your car is qualified !
your problem is you have a 94 corolla with 195000 miles on it hahaha i think its time to let it go and upgrade to a new car. any money you have to put into this car will be worth more than the car itself
I need to reprogram my company name and fax number in my Canon CFX-L3500 IF Laser Multifunction System.?
I lost the book, so looked on the internet, and even called a distributor that Canon referred me to to see how to change the name and number that prints when I fax a document. I have had no luck. Does anyone out there have one of these and can tell me how to set up my new name and number?I need to reprogram my company name and fax number in my Canon CFX-L3500 IF Laser Multifunction System.?
Download a Manuel from www.canon.comemail hosting other
Download a Manuel from www.canon.com
'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
I have been noticing that my jeep is having a drastic decline in fuel mileage. I was getting around 330-350 miles per tank. The last couple tanks I got 210!! I replaced my spark plugs, distributor cap, and spark plug wires. No discernible change. I have also noticed a loss in power and acceleration. Any ideas about what is going on or how to fix it?'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test
My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
This is my original question.....
I have a '92 Nissan Sentra 1.6L Manual Transmission. It has started to Idle really rough and drive rough as well while driving until it gets up to speed. I have put new spark plugs and wires, has a fresh oil change and everything. A friend of mine taught me how to check the spark plugs and listen for the change in pitch all but 1 changes and that is after the new wires and plugs. Checked to make sure everything was done right but still doing the same thing. Any ideas of what else?
So far I have a new distributor cap on it now, new rotor. No change. Still nothing in the one cylinder. Somebody also mentioned to check the compression in the cylinder. Now is that only something a mechanic can check with proper tools or is it easy to do.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
Checking compression is easy, and your local parts place has the tool you need to do it. They aren't that expensive. It goes in place of the spark plug; you crank the engine a few times and see where the gauge tops out. It should be within about 10% of all the others; if it isn't you may need valves or rings.
But before you blow some money on that, try this: take out that one spark plug, shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into that cylinder, and put the plug back in. Fire it up. Did that fix it? If so, it's rings. And no, that ';fix'; won't last.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
You can purchase the tool to check the compression in the cylinder.... it goes in place of the pasrk plug and can tell you whether t is good or not. You can find it at any auto parts store
this same thing happened to me on my truck im pretty sure that a couple of your injectrues are going bad in it
assuming you checked for spark at that plug, than check that your getting fuel to that cylinder.
When you do the compression check you must pull all plugs out and disable the ignition and fuel injection. Also make sure you have battery fully charged.
well when you changed the plugs were they all a nice light brown color or were they black with abuild up did you have any that were white did any have a build up across from the tip to the electrode? i ask because this would be what you check to help determine problems if any with your engine also did you change the air filter compression test=compression tester =autozone, three squirts oil crank over about 4 times write down repeat for all cylinders all readings should be within 75%of each other next get long screwdriver put handle against ear other end against injector listen to see if all working good luck
mostly could use a tuneup through a Nissan dealership
I have a '92 Nissan Sentra 1.6L Manual Transmission. It has started to Idle really rough and drive rough as well while driving until it gets up to speed. I have put new spark plugs and wires, has a fresh oil change and everything. A friend of mine taught me how to check the spark plugs and listen for the change in pitch all but 1 changes and that is after the new wires and plugs. Checked to make sure everything was done right but still doing the same thing. Any ideas of what else?
So far I have a new distributor cap on it now, new rotor. No change. Still nothing in the one cylinder. Somebody also mentioned to check the compression in the cylinder. Now is that only something a mechanic can check with proper tools or is it easy to do.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
Checking compression is easy, and your local parts place has the tool you need to do it. They aren't that expensive. It goes in place of the spark plug; you crank the engine a few times and see where the gauge tops out. It should be within about 10% of all the others; if it isn't you may need valves or rings.
But before you blow some money on that, try this: take out that one spark plug, shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into that cylinder, and put the plug back in. Fire it up. Did that fix it? If so, it's rings. And no, that ';fix'; won't last.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
You can purchase the tool to check the compression in the cylinder.... it goes in place of the pasrk plug and can tell you whether t is good or not. You can find it at any auto parts store
this same thing happened to me on my truck im pretty sure that a couple of your injectrues are going bad in it
assuming you checked for spark at that plug, than check that your getting fuel to that cylinder.
When you do the compression check you must pull all plugs out and disable the ignition and fuel injection. Also make sure you have battery fully charged.
well when you changed the plugs were they all a nice light brown color or were they black with abuild up did you have any that were white did any have a build up across from the tip to the electrode? i ask because this would be what you check to help determine problems if any with your engine also did you change the air filter compression test=compression tester =autozone, three squirts oil crank over about 4 times write down repeat for all cylinders all readings should be within 75%of each other next get long screwdriver put handle against ear other end against injector listen to see if all working good luck
mostly could use a tuneup through a Nissan dealership
How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
i recently changed my spark plugs,rotor,wires, and distributor cap. once i finished installing every ting,i started the car and when i step on the accelerator, the car jerks, then returns back to normal operation. when i look under thee hood and have some one step on the gas, when the car misfires or backfires, there is white/gray smoke that comes out of the driver side of the carburetor area ! the car does this every time i step on the gas, it isn't continuous, its more of on and off when i press the gas pedal.
what is my problem and how do i fix it ?How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
just a real simple 5 minute diagnosis for back firing is double check your high tension lines. are they going from the correct tower to the correct plug. also insure that they are firmly seated on the tower and the plug. something commonly overlooked is did you make sure you placed the wires back in their looms so as to not let them arc against something metal. electricity will always take the shortest path to ground. if one of these wires can discharge its spark by arcing, easier than firing the plug, it will. this will sound like a taser going off. ';zap zap zap zap';.
WARNING: do your checking with the car off. this will save you from getting the beeejeeebers shocked outta you! and the embarrassment of your friend laughing at you while you dance around the yard glowing!
if you are absolutely sure you have the correct wires on the correct towers and plugs, then you have a problem other than this one.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
If the change came after your work, go back and check all your work. Unless you do the plug wires one at a time, there's a chance some could have been switched. Make sure the engine is timed right: It sounds like yours is firing while an intake valve isn't fully closed..
I once replaced the distributor cap on a '72 Dodge Colt. It wouldn't start afer that. I checked the timing and it was 40 deg off. I compared the old cap with the new one and discovered they were different- the new one had the connectors that far off.. Repositioning the distributor corrected the problem.
It could be that, you could also have a pin sized hole in the head gasket, i'd get that **** into a garage and look at the gasket and engine block for holes.
You probably mixed up the firing order putting it back together. You may also want to time it.
If it was ok before, then you have two plug wires crossed up. A v8 will hide this at idle, but it will run like crap as soon as you try to put load on the engine. Gm V8 firing order is 18436572. Look on the intake just in front of the carb and it will be shown in raised letters cast into the intake. If you didn't pull the distributor out of the engine, then the #1 plug wire should be the left tower on the dist cap while facing it from the front of the car.The distributor turns right hand (clock wise). The cylinders are odds on the drivers side,1357, and even on the pass side 2468, from the front. Retrace your plug wires. I guarantee you got 5+7 crossed up. Easy mistake even pros make now and then. The cylinder numbers are cast into the intake also, right near where the intake meets the heads.Some of the older gms had the plug wire numbers embossed into the plastic retainer ring that hold the plug wire down on the dist cap.(the ring you threw out,because the after market wire didn't fit it)
timing is off and the engine is backfiring through the intake valves. did you loosen or mess with the distributer? if not then recheck that you dont have either some switched spark plug wires or they were installed one hole off in rotation (i doubt this one) when the timing is set to far out the spark plugs fire before the intake valve has clsed causing the back fire you described exhaust bangs are due to the exhast valve open during the spark. if the wires are all correct in the holes and on the plugs than you must bring the motor up to top dead center on the crank shaft pully (tdc) or zero degreas advance or retatd on the crank, then lift the distributor cap and see if the pointer is aimed at #1 spark plug contact in the distributor cap. at his point it should be if its pointed directly accross then you must turn the motor 1 turn to the next time the tdc mark is lined up. now the pointer should be close. turn the distributer base to line up the cap and the pointer to #1 plug. this should stop the backfires now you simply need to gently turn the distributer till the pointer matches the line on the timing marks your engine calls for usually 6 to 8 degrees advance or so.
what is my problem and how do i fix it ?How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
just a real simple 5 minute diagnosis for back firing is double check your high tension lines. are they going from the correct tower to the correct plug. also insure that they are firmly seated on the tower and the plug. something commonly overlooked is did you make sure you placed the wires back in their looms so as to not let them arc against something metal. electricity will always take the shortest path to ground. if one of these wires can discharge its spark by arcing, easier than firing the plug, it will. this will sound like a taser going off. ';zap zap zap zap';.
WARNING: do your checking with the car off. this will save you from getting the beeejeeebers shocked outta you! and the embarrassment of your friend laughing at you while you dance around the yard glowing!
if you are absolutely sure you have the correct wires on the correct towers and plugs, then you have a problem other than this one.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
If the change came after your work, go back and check all your work. Unless you do the plug wires one at a time, there's a chance some could have been switched. Make sure the engine is timed right: It sounds like yours is firing while an intake valve isn't fully closed..
I once replaced the distributor cap on a '72 Dodge Colt. It wouldn't start afer that. I checked the timing and it was 40 deg off. I compared the old cap with the new one and discovered they were different- the new one had the connectors that far off.. Repositioning the distributor corrected the problem.
It could be that, you could also have a pin sized hole in the head gasket, i'd get that **** into a garage and look at the gasket and engine block for holes.
You probably mixed up the firing order putting it back together. You may also want to time it.
If it was ok before, then you have two plug wires crossed up. A v8 will hide this at idle, but it will run like crap as soon as you try to put load on the engine. Gm V8 firing order is 18436572. Look on the intake just in front of the carb and it will be shown in raised letters cast into the intake. If you didn't pull the distributor out of the engine, then the #1 plug wire should be the left tower on the dist cap while facing it from the front of the car.The distributor turns right hand (clock wise). The cylinders are odds on the drivers side,1357, and even on the pass side 2468, from the front. Retrace your plug wires. I guarantee you got 5+7 crossed up. Easy mistake even pros make now and then. The cylinder numbers are cast into the intake also, right near where the intake meets the heads.Some of the older gms had the plug wire numbers embossed into the plastic retainer ring that hold the plug wire down on the dist cap.(the ring you threw out,because the after market wire didn't fit it)
timing is off and the engine is backfiring through the intake valves. did you loosen or mess with the distributer? if not then recheck that you dont have either some switched spark plug wires or they were installed one hole off in rotation (i doubt this one) when the timing is set to far out the spark plugs fire before the intake valve has clsed causing the back fire you described exhaust bangs are due to the exhast valve open during the spark. if the wires are all correct in the holes and on the plugs than you must bring the motor up to top dead center on the crank shaft pully (tdc) or zero degreas advance or retatd on the crank, then lift the distributor cap and see if the pointer is aimed at #1 spark plug contact in the distributor cap. at his point it should be if its pointed directly accross then you must turn the motor 1 turn to the next time the tdc mark is lined up. now the pointer should be close. turn the distributer base to line up the cap and the pointer to #1 plug. this should stop the backfires now you simply need to gently turn the distributer till the pointer matches the line on the timing marks your engine calls for usually 6 to 8 degrees advance or so.
How can i get my engine to start?
i have a 94 nissan altima GXE n i cant get it to start...i just changed brand new spark plugs,wires and distributor...the only way i can get it on is pumping the gas a couple times. then i turn it off and let sit there for few mins and then try to turn it back on again i wont do it until i pump the gas again. what could that be, if u have any idea pls let me know... thanksHow can i get my engine to start?
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starter
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.
get your battery checked.
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starter
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.
get your battery checked.
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
Should I replace the pick up coil?
What should I check if my truck is jumping like it isn't getting fuel? I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, spark wires, and the distributor cap. Some one told me that it may be the pick up coil or ignition coil. What would the symptoms of this be and how can I tell if it needs to be replaced?Should I replace the pick up coil?
could be plugged catalytic converter. maybe intake leak. probably should clean the carbuerator or throttle body with carb/choke cleaner.Should I replace the pick up coil?
take the coil or pickup coil to a parts house and they can check it for you
year of auto really helps
my email is open
It depends what vehicle,and how old it is,etc.Yes,your pick up coil could do this,as could the ignition coil.So could a bad gas cap and fuel pressure regulator.
have you checked the timing?
what make and model and engine? it could be a flat cam? does it do it under a load? idle?hair of the dog what are coins made out of
could be plugged catalytic converter. maybe intake leak. probably should clean the carbuerator or throttle body with carb/choke cleaner.Should I replace the pick up coil?
take the coil or pickup coil to a parts house and they can check it for you
year of auto really helps
my email is open
It depends what vehicle,and how old it is,etc.Yes,your pick up coil could do this,as could the ignition coil.So could a bad gas cap and fuel pressure regulator.
have you checked the timing?
what make and model and engine? it could be a flat cam? does it do it under a load? idle?
1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
Had an oil leak with valve cover and distributor adaptor (front cam). I have changed out the o-ring and 2 seals, valve cover gasket and plug, I marked the cam to head, distributor to adaptor, and rotor button to distributor before removing anything. I marked the spark plug wires to rotor cap. When replacing the camshaft gear the timing belt was moved. When I lined all my marks back up and torqued everything down, the engine will not crank. It turns over but does not engage. I have fire coming form coil wire. My brother -in - law came over and helped me turn the engine to top dead center and we placed the rotor button at firing order #1 plug. Still engine will turn over but will not engage (crank). My question is. How would I go about resetting both front and rear cams with engine set to top dead center. I believe when my ex was putting the timing belt back on, the rear camshaft was turned. So I need to get the engine back to top dead center and make sure the front and rear camshaft gears are in time as well. Please help. Cannot make heads or tails from my Haynes with this problem1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
try this web site they have a pic and a diagram of that engine for the timing specs,good luck, http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochu1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
your welcome,fun isn't the word to begin with now on it,if its got bent valves its going to be expensive to repair it,i hope its ok though,good luck.
go to dodge dealer [I know before you curse me...and them] the parts dept of dealers should NOT be lumped in with rest of hated operation,,,parts dept people are smarter and friendlier,,they will impart wisdom for free...
I know what you mean about haynes,,i prefer chilton but since they are now owned by same co they both such equally
try this web site they have a pic and a diagram of that engine for the timing specs,good luck, http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochu1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
your welcome,fun isn't the word to begin with now on it,if its got bent valves its going to be expensive to repair it,i hope its ok though,good luck.
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go to dodge dealer [I know before you curse me...and them] the parts dept of dealers should NOT be lumped in with rest of hated operation,,,parts dept people are smarter and friendlier,,they will impart wisdom for free...
I know what you mean about haynes,,i prefer chilton but since they are now owned by same co they both such equally
Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
i recently changed carburetors from an 18rc engine that was going well onto my 18rc in my celica. i changed carburetors because my carburetor seemed to be flooding the engine, and eventualy i couldn't even start the engine.
after i changed carburetors over the engine started first go, and ran exellently. but the next day the engine was running rough. me and my dad put the timing light on it but the number one cylinder was misfiring. i changed the spark plug, spark leads and distributor cap. i checked the exaust for that cylinder for leaks but there wasn't any. i took it to a mechanic and he did a test to see if the valve was burnt out, but it wasn't that. then he said it was the cam and that it had a worn down lobe.
the question is how fast would a cam wear out so that a lobe was causing a misfire, because as i said before the engine was running good before my original carburetor deteriorated, and started misfiring after i changed carburetors. could the cam be causing this?Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
cams have a hardened surface on them if the surface is damaged it will wear quickly, but not over night. have you checked that nothing fell into the engine when you changed the carb? you can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand and see if all the valves open about the same amount or any of the came lobes look different than the others.. good luckToyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
contact dealership
after i changed carburetors over the engine started first go, and ran exellently. but the next day the engine was running rough. me and my dad put the timing light on it but the number one cylinder was misfiring. i changed the spark plug, spark leads and distributor cap. i checked the exaust for that cylinder for leaks but there wasn't any. i took it to a mechanic and he did a test to see if the valve was burnt out, but it wasn't that. then he said it was the cam and that it had a worn down lobe.
the question is how fast would a cam wear out so that a lobe was causing a misfire, because as i said before the engine was running good before my original carburetor deteriorated, and started misfiring after i changed carburetors. could the cam be causing this?Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
cams have a hardened surface on them if the surface is damaged it will wear quickly, but not over night. have you checked that nothing fell into the engine when you changed the carb? you can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand and see if all the valves open about the same amount or any of the came lobes look different than the others.. good luckToyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
contact dealership
86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
I've had this stanza for 2 years now. sometimes it starts, other times it won't. When it does start the rpms rise and drop, rise and drop, and when you push on the gas pedal it it starts to sputter and sometimes stalls. When you put it in park or neutral it acts more steady but then when you put it in drive, the rpm's drop and it acts like it wants to die.
I took it to a mechanic and he changed the spark plugs (all 8) and the distributor cap and rotor. it was better for a day or two but then it went down hill fast. The mechanic told me it was running rich in fuel. Does this seem right? another thing was interesting was when he would move the spark plug wires, sometimes the car would start to sputter. Does this seem like an electrical problem? Even when the spark plug wires aren't being moved the car acts up. Sometimes when starting the car it really smells like gas. What could be wrong with it and how much $?86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
it sounds like it may be running a little rich on gas,,but i think you need to find another mechanic and let him check it out also,,two opinions are better than one,,i can only guess ,bit id say it has a bad sensor on it,,but a good mechanic should be able to find it for you,,good luck,i hope this help,s.,,have a good x-,mas.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
change the injectors
since its an older car, expect probelms to arrise
your solution lies with finding a good mechanic! do lots of research and hope you can find someone who is an expert on those cars
it sounds like a complex problem, not one that can have a good answer here. since its an older car, lots of parts need to be checked in order to come up with a resolution
have air idle motor checked and try a bottle of LUCAS fuel treatment
did he change the spark plug wires? is it worse when it`s damp.Try looking at the wires in the night time with the engine running I bet you will see spark jumping. the spark energy will take the path of least resistance
check the idle air control sensor,also it could be the throttle position sensor.try cleaning out the throttle body,it could be really dirty and cant breathe.
its a nissan stanza that's what's wrong with it
I took it to a mechanic and he changed the spark plugs (all 8) and the distributor cap and rotor. it was better for a day or two but then it went down hill fast. The mechanic told me it was running rich in fuel. Does this seem right? another thing was interesting was when he would move the spark plug wires, sometimes the car would start to sputter. Does this seem like an electrical problem? Even when the spark plug wires aren't being moved the car acts up. Sometimes when starting the car it really smells like gas. What could be wrong with it and how much $?86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
it sounds like it may be running a little rich on gas,,but i think you need to find another mechanic and let him check it out also,,two opinions are better than one,,i can only guess ,bit id say it has a bad sensor on it,,but a good mechanic should be able to find it for you,,good luck,i hope this help,s.,,have a good x-,mas.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
change the injectors
since its an older car, expect probelms to arrise
your solution lies with finding a good mechanic! do lots of research and hope you can find someone who is an expert on those cars
it sounds like a complex problem, not one that can have a good answer here. since its an older car, lots of parts need to be checked in order to come up with a resolution
have air idle motor checked and try a bottle of LUCAS fuel treatment
did he change the spark plug wires? is it worse when it`s damp.Try looking at the wires in the night time with the engine running I bet you will see spark jumping. the spark energy will take the path of least resistance
check the idle air control sensor,also it could be the throttle position sensor.try cleaning out the throttle body,it could be really dirty and cant breathe.
its a nissan stanza that's what's wrong with it
How do i find wholesale distributors for the top brands of motor oil?
my brother and i are thinking of starting up an oil changing business and we are trying to figure out where to find product sourcing. we don't want to be limited to just one brand like franchised lube centers. we want to get Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.How do i find wholesale distributors for the top brands of motor oil?
Jiffy lube is owned by Shell and Shell owns Pennzoil. Hence why they have Pennzoil in bulk, they also have distributors for other brands of oil they buy in bulk like Castrol.
In order for you to buy in bulk and keep the costs down you will have to commit to carrying 1 brand of oil in the guns like citgo or valvoline. Most oil distributors have reps that will come out to your shop and offer you different prices and bonuses if you carry that oil.
There is no way you can order Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline all in bulk to lower the cost enough for you to make a nice profit. It just wouldn't make good business sense, thats why most companies like Jiffy Lube or Lube N Tune promote certain brands.
Stick to 1 major oil company in the bulk tanks where you will make a nice profit but take the hit on Mobil 1 and castrol by buying them by the case.
To find distributors in your area look in the yellow pages for companies with Oil in the title. You will need several distributors since not just 1 carries all brands.
Jiffy lube is owned by Shell and Shell owns Pennzoil. Hence why they have Pennzoil in bulk, they also have distributors for other brands of oil they buy in bulk like Castrol.
In order for you to buy in bulk and keep the costs down you will have to commit to carrying 1 brand of oil in the guns like citgo or valvoline. Most oil distributors have reps that will come out to your shop and offer you different prices and bonuses if you carry that oil.
There is no way you can order Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline all in bulk to lower the cost enough for you to make a nice profit. It just wouldn't make good business sense, thats why most companies like Jiffy Lube or Lube N Tune promote certain brands.
Stick to 1 major oil company in the bulk tanks where you will make a nice profit but take the hit on Mobil 1 and castrol by buying them by the case.
To find distributors in your area look in the yellow pages for companies with Oil in the title. You will need several distributors since not just 1 carries all brands.
Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
Whose ready for marijuana to be legalized? Let's be serious here and not take this as a joke. This isn't about whether ';Aw dude, I'm gonna blaze up so much when it's legalized';.
This is more than just smoking yourself to the verge of passing out.
No, this is a determinant of whether people can take care of themselves without government intervention. This is about economic implications.
I believe in individualism. I believe that people can make choices for themselves. I don't need the government to tell me what's right or what's wrong. There are certain things that are already explicitly wrong such as murder or rape.
What about the things one does to their own body? Should this be under the jurisdiction of the federal government?
As some of you may know, marijuana has already been decriminalized in several states and California is looking to legalize it to spur it's economy. If California legalizes marijuana, it can look at an extreme boost to it's economy. 2 years, boom, recession in California is done. Over. Caput. People can get back to work.
I believe that marijuana should be RElegalized for the following reasons.
- People should be able to make their own choices concerning themselves, the government should not tell people what is ';good'; or ';bad'; for them.
- In November, there has been a milestone. 20 million people have been arrested for marijuana possession since 1937. People who were in jail for minor drug offenses will be let free. More resources could be allocated to capturing real criminals. The amount of arrests have been ridiculously rising recently.
- Marijuana is a huge cash crop, actually the number one cash crop in front of corn. Many states like California, their economy will be spurred.
- The potential of paper. The Declaration of Independence was made from marijuana. Hemp. The stalk of the plant can be cut and formed into paper without bleaching or harmful chemicals. We also save more trees.
-Money from marijuana will go directly into the United States. By people who are buying marijuana, they support the Mexican drug cartels and the drug trade. They give them money. This money is in turn used to kill thousands of people in Mexico. You want to know how many Mexicans died last year from drug cartels? 5,612 people. Dead Mexicans because of the money we're giving them.
Mexico has a population of approximately 108,700,891 people. In 2008, 5,612 people, or 1 out of every 19,369 Mexicans, died in the drug war, meaning that the drug war is almost twice as deadly for Mexicans as illicit drugs are for US residents. Does this mean that a US resident’s life is nearly twice as valuable as that of a Mexican?
- Marijuana legalization could create new jobs. Growers, distributors, shippers, vendors, dispensaries, the list goes on.
- Marijuana has not caused a single death ever, while many people die from alcohol, nicotine, and pharmaceutical drug-related causes a year.
- The war on drugs has costs millions of dollars a year, millions of dollars going toward marijuana, and millions of dollars of OUR money!
Marijuana is not the gateway drug. The prohibition of marijuana is the reason why so many young people are introduced to a criminal society.
It is a fact that if marijuana was legalized usage would not rise. In fact in countries where marijuana is legal usage is around half of that in our own country.
Marijuana prohibition causes young people to have disrespect for the law. It is the cause for disrespect to the police.
Now, 872,000 americans will criminal records. They will have difficulty getting an education because of it. The saddest part of this is that like you read above, 1 out of 4 of these people are under age 18. 3 out of 4 are under ago 30.
I believe the actual prohibition of cannabis is the culprit here. If it was taxed and regulated such as alcohol, then the drug dealers would be out of a job. They don’t care who they sell to. As a matter of fact, I read where there is an estimated 1,000,000 high school student dealers in this country. Why? Kids aren’t dumb and they see that the “mark up” is in the 200-300 percent range while huge profit margins make it impossible to work at Burger King. Not to mention they also have a captive market, five days a week.
With all this being said, we have too much at stake here. The prohibition of weed far outweighs the good that can come from this. I don't care if you smoke weed. I don't care if you don't smoke or don't like people that do. This is not about that.
This is about change and how our country can stop wasting millions and start a new era of justice, liberty, freedom, anti-discrimination, and economic gain, simply by RElegalizing a plant that was available for centuries.
Chime in.Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I agree, but as you can see from the answers you've received, we've got a long way to go to overcome 70 + years of reefer madness propaganda. Kills brain cells, causes cancer, etc, etc. All untrue, but people have been spoon fed the lies for generations. We've come closer in recent years to getting at the truth, but as you see, not everyone believes. After all, our government couldn't possibly have been wrong all this time. Or could they???Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I'm good on that. I don't like when people smoke weed. I'm above the influence :D
I have a life, and I am not going to waste it reading THAT.
=]
i didn't read the whole thing...
but in my opinion I'd rather keep it illegal
you said marijuana 17 times :)
um
i agree with you
yes i am ready to answer the question
uhhh god
its a ******* drug, honestly.
It'd be another legal addiction, c'mon, man!
use yer head.
=]]
btw its the gateway drug
search tht term up kayzzz
im not really
You only want it legalized so that you can smoke it freely, without the added stress of being locked up.
Grow up and respect the law.
Put this in Society and culture
You'll get way more REAL answers..
I am NOT reading all that.
Sorry.
Sum it up :)
Honestly, lets think about the situation, weed is great, I wont deny it, but its not legal and i dont think that should change at all.
People use over the counter drugs to get high, and over the counter is legal, people still die from OTC overdoses, and misuse.
People still die from Pot, I dont think that there are many reasons that people need it, unless its for medical reasons.
Think about it, some people are not able to make aduquete descions, such as children and people with mental diaablities. If pot is legal, then minors have INSTANT acsess to it, and minors arent mature enough to be able to make that decesion.
And if people are in jail for having pot, then they may be smuggling other drugs also, this makes them true criminals.
I think that pot should be used for paper, but under VERY carful watch, you cant just go handing out pot.
And YES pot has Killed people, sometimes direcctly, sometimes through driving accidents or murder thats not aware.
Although when one is high they can control themselves to SOME extent, Pot can hurt people and not always directly.
But I dont think pot will ever get old, when you are addicted you just take more and more till it kills you.
And dont blame pot for people disrespect for the law, like YOU said, peoploe should be able to make their own decision to do right and WRONG.
I know that I WILL get thumbs down, but the pros of legalizing pot dont over power the negative things enogh to make it ok.
I know I don't smoke weed and never will so I'm not going to spend my time reading this. People who smoke are lammme and have no lives
sure, people havent died, but it kills brain cells. we need people to keep those brain cells. picture a potential doctor who could find the cure for cancer. if he starts smoking dope, it kills his brain cells. then he decides to keep smoking and NOT find a cure for cancer. God doesnt want us destroying our bodies. keep it illegal.
Ok first of all i dont smoke weed and people who do are ruining their lives and peoples around them and hopefully they will stay away frm ppl that dont smoke cause the crap is illegal and it will stay that way!!!
This is the most ridiculous question I've seen in a while. Do you want the number of cancer patients to rise? Idiot.
im ready for mary jane to be leagalized!! the drug rate would go down!!
why are all your questions so dang long...geez.horses How to clean up blood stains on bed sheets
This is more than just smoking yourself to the verge of passing out.
No, this is a determinant of whether people can take care of themselves without government intervention. This is about economic implications.
I believe in individualism. I believe that people can make choices for themselves. I don't need the government to tell me what's right or what's wrong. There are certain things that are already explicitly wrong such as murder or rape.
What about the things one does to their own body? Should this be under the jurisdiction of the federal government?
As some of you may know, marijuana has already been decriminalized in several states and California is looking to legalize it to spur it's economy. If California legalizes marijuana, it can look at an extreme boost to it's economy. 2 years, boom, recession in California is done. Over. Caput. People can get back to work.
I believe that marijuana should be RElegalized for the following reasons.
- People should be able to make their own choices concerning themselves, the government should not tell people what is ';good'; or ';bad'; for them.
- In November, there has been a milestone. 20 million people have been arrested for marijuana possession since 1937. People who were in jail for minor drug offenses will be let free. More resources could be allocated to capturing real criminals. The amount of arrests have been ridiculously rising recently.
- Marijuana is a huge cash crop, actually the number one cash crop in front of corn. Many states like California, their economy will be spurred.
- The potential of paper. The Declaration of Independence was made from marijuana. Hemp. The stalk of the plant can be cut and formed into paper without bleaching or harmful chemicals. We also save more trees.
-Money from marijuana will go directly into the United States. By people who are buying marijuana, they support the Mexican drug cartels and the drug trade. They give them money. This money is in turn used to kill thousands of people in Mexico. You want to know how many Mexicans died last year from drug cartels? 5,612 people. Dead Mexicans because of the money we're giving them.
Mexico has a population of approximately 108,700,891 people. In 2008, 5,612 people, or 1 out of every 19,369 Mexicans, died in the drug war, meaning that the drug war is almost twice as deadly for Mexicans as illicit drugs are for US residents. Does this mean that a US resident’s life is nearly twice as valuable as that of a Mexican?
- Marijuana legalization could create new jobs. Growers, distributors, shippers, vendors, dispensaries, the list goes on.
- Marijuana has not caused a single death ever, while many people die from alcohol, nicotine, and pharmaceutical drug-related causes a year.
- The war on drugs has costs millions of dollars a year, millions of dollars going toward marijuana, and millions of dollars of OUR money!
Marijuana is not the gateway drug. The prohibition of marijuana is the reason why so many young people are introduced to a criminal society.
It is a fact that if marijuana was legalized usage would not rise. In fact in countries where marijuana is legal usage is around half of that in our own country.
Marijuana prohibition causes young people to have disrespect for the law. It is the cause for disrespect to the police.
Now, 872,000 americans will criminal records. They will have difficulty getting an education because of it. The saddest part of this is that like you read above, 1 out of 4 of these people are under age 18. 3 out of 4 are under ago 30.
I believe the actual prohibition of cannabis is the culprit here. If it was taxed and regulated such as alcohol, then the drug dealers would be out of a job. They don’t care who they sell to. As a matter of fact, I read where there is an estimated 1,000,000 high school student dealers in this country. Why? Kids aren’t dumb and they see that the “mark up” is in the 200-300 percent range while huge profit margins make it impossible to work at Burger King. Not to mention they also have a captive market, five days a week.
With all this being said, we have too much at stake here. The prohibition of weed far outweighs the good that can come from this. I don't care if you smoke weed. I don't care if you don't smoke or don't like people that do. This is not about that.
This is about change and how our country can stop wasting millions and start a new era of justice, liberty, freedom, anti-discrimination, and economic gain, simply by RElegalizing a plant that was available for centuries.
Chime in.Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I agree, but as you can see from the answers you've received, we've got a long way to go to overcome 70 + years of reefer madness propaganda. Kills brain cells, causes cancer, etc, etc. All untrue, but people have been spoon fed the lies for generations. We've come closer in recent years to getting at the truth, but as you see, not everyone believes. After all, our government couldn't possibly have been wrong all this time. Or could they???Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I'm good on that. I don't like when people smoke weed. I'm above the influence :D
I have a life, and I am not going to waste it reading THAT.
=]
i didn't read the whole thing...
but in my opinion I'd rather keep it illegal
you said marijuana 17 times :)
um
i agree with you
yes i am ready to answer the question
uhhh god
its a ******* drug, honestly.
It'd be another legal addiction, c'mon, man!
use yer head.
=]]
btw its the gateway drug
search tht term up kayzzz
im not really
You only want it legalized so that you can smoke it freely, without the added stress of being locked up.
Grow up and respect the law.
Put this in Society and culture
You'll get way more REAL answers..
I am NOT reading all that.
Sorry.
Sum it up :)
Honestly, lets think about the situation, weed is great, I wont deny it, but its not legal and i dont think that should change at all.
People use over the counter drugs to get high, and over the counter is legal, people still die from OTC overdoses, and misuse.
People still die from Pot, I dont think that there are many reasons that people need it, unless its for medical reasons.
Think about it, some people are not able to make aduquete descions, such as children and people with mental diaablities. If pot is legal, then minors have INSTANT acsess to it, and minors arent mature enough to be able to make that decesion.
And if people are in jail for having pot, then they may be smuggling other drugs also, this makes them true criminals.
I think that pot should be used for paper, but under VERY carful watch, you cant just go handing out pot.
And YES pot has Killed people, sometimes direcctly, sometimes through driving accidents or murder thats not aware.
Although when one is high they can control themselves to SOME extent, Pot can hurt people and not always directly.
But I dont think pot will ever get old, when you are addicted you just take more and more till it kills you.
And dont blame pot for people disrespect for the law, like YOU said, peoploe should be able to make their own decision to do right and WRONG.
I know that I WILL get thumbs down, but the pros of legalizing pot dont over power the negative things enogh to make it ok.
I know I don't smoke weed and never will so I'm not going to spend my time reading this. People who smoke are lammme and have no lives
sure, people havent died, but it kills brain cells. we need people to keep those brain cells. picture a potential doctor who could find the cure for cancer. if he starts smoking dope, it kills his brain cells. then he decides to keep smoking and NOT find a cure for cancer. God doesnt want us destroying our bodies. keep it illegal.
Ok first of all i dont smoke weed and people who do are ruining their lives and peoples around them and hopefully they will stay away frm ppl that dont smoke cause the crap is illegal and it will stay that way!!!
This is the most ridiculous question I've seen in a while. Do you want the number of cancer patients to rise? Idiot.
im ready for mary jane to be leagalized!! the drug rate would go down!!
why are all your questions so dang long...geez.
My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
I have a charged battery, I just changed the ignition module and I seem to be getting fire through the coil wire, but none to the plugs, so I am tring to find why.My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
Did you check the alternator?My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
inspect the wires for what looks like lightning shaped marks on them. Check the ends and and clean them with a wire brush. if it is stuttering after you did all that you described then its probably the wires or the cap.
If the coil wire is showing fire ....then you need to check either rooter or may be distributor cap....
is the rotor in the distributor or the cap cracked
Could be a bad pick-up coil or even a bad distributor cap or rotor. I doubt if the distributor itself is bad, although it could be.
You could of picked up a bad ignition module. Take it back and try the new one first.
If you have spark at the coil wire and not at the plugs, you have either a bad coil wire, or a shorted rotor.
A weak coil wire will not let enough power through to get through the distributor, and a shorted rotor will send the spark through the centre of the rotor and short to the rotor mount.
I would replace the rotor and then the coil wire.
If the distributor cap is bad. you will see a black line down the side of the cap. Replace it if there are any black lines.
Good luck
check if u are getting spark to the distributor if not the coil is bad if u do check if your have spark to the first nipple thing o the distributor if not u need a new cap or hole distributor if u have spark their check the wire is spark check plug if that is all good the problem might be fuel not spark
Ford What ? American like a Maverick, Mustang, Pinto or Elite or LTD II etc?
If you have such a car with the ';electronic Ignition of the time'; I'd be checking the supply voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module runs on 6 volts and yet the car initially runs and fires on 12 volts. (thus your kind of -sort of start) In order to get the battery voltage cut in half and down to 6 volts . Ford used a resister wire and others used a ball est resistor to cut the voltage down.
Find a good service manual to identify your wire and it will probably have you take resistance and voltage readings of the resister wire by sticking a (sewing needle) needle in the wire. Ford used to offer replacement ';core wires'; but probably desn't today. They last one I was able to get from Ford was for a SHAY a 1980 Model A ford replica with modern underpinnings. (Pinto with reto model A Body. )
Modern replacement modules might be a better idea they look and function like the old ones but are designed better and eliminate the need for that resistor wire.
If you do decide to replace the resister wire its a job as it s 'lost' in the normal wiring harness and has to be ';picked out'; and it ends up inside the car on the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.
The Idea behind this was the low voltage in the system was great for signaling the High enery coil to work it was much better than the old point systems it replaced. You have the High energy side to the ignitation the plugs and plug wires and the low voltage side it simply is the signal for the other to operate.
get a repair guy they alway WORK! lol
Did you check the alternator?My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
inspect the wires for what looks like lightning shaped marks on them. Check the ends and and clean them with a wire brush. if it is stuttering after you did all that you described then its probably the wires or the cap.
If the coil wire is showing fire ....then you need to check either rooter or may be distributor cap....
is the rotor in the distributor or the cap cracked
Could be a bad pick-up coil or even a bad distributor cap or rotor. I doubt if the distributor itself is bad, although it could be.
You could of picked up a bad ignition module. Take it back and try the new one first.
If you have spark at the coil wire and not at the plugs, you have either a bad coil wire, or a shorted rotor.
A weak coil wire will not let enough power through to get through the distributor, and a shorted rotor will send the spark through the centre of the rotor and short to the rotor mount.
I would replace the rotor and then the coil wire.
If the distributor cap is bad. you will see a black line down the side of the cap. Replace it if there are any black lines.
Good luck
check if u are getting spark to the distributor if not the coil is bad if u do check if your have spark to the first nipple thing o the distributor if not u need a new cap or hole distributor if u have spark their check the wire is spark check plug if that is all good the problem might be fuel not spark
Ford What ? American like a Maverick, Mustang, Pinto or Elite or LTD II etc?
If you have such a car with the ';electronic Ignition of the time'; I'd be checking the supply voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module runs on 6 volts and yet the car initially runs and fires on 12 volts. (thus your kind of -sort of start) In order to get the battery voltage cut in half and down to 6 volts . Ford used a resister wire and others used a ball est resistor to cut the voltage down.
Find a good service manual to identify your wire and it will probably have you take resistance and voltage readings of the resister wire by sticking a (sewing needle) needle in the wire. Ford used to offer replacement ';core wires'; but probably desn't today. They last one I was able to get from Ford was for a SHAY a 1980 Model A ford replica with modern underpinnings. (Pinto with reto model A Body. )
Modern replacement modules might be a better idea they look and function like the old ones but are designed better and eliminate the need for that resistor wire.
If you do decide to replace the resister wire its a job as it s 'lost' in the normal wiring harness and has to be ';picked out'; and it ends up inside the car on the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.
The Idea behind this was the low voltage in the system was great for signaling the High enery coil to work it was much better than the old point systems it replaced. You have the High energy side to the ignitation the plugs and plug wires and the low voltage side it simply is the signal for the other to operate.
get a repair guy they alway WORK! lol
My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
what I need to do. I have had it serviced so all filters and sparks have been changed. I have had the AA out who said it was my distributor and rotar arm which have now also been changed, however the thing is still doing it. I initially thought it was a fuel injection problem, but I don't know how to deal. It drives well and then starts to kangaroo a bit. When I stop at traffic lights it loses all revs and cuts out. It starts again straight away.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
my suggestion is that if it cuts off when coming to a stop and starts right up.....Idle air control valve. when coming to a stop engine sits at idle while not having fuel applied, so iacv takes over and keeps car running. most often the throttle chamber has a build up of carbon that broke free, got lodged in iacv and caused it to fail. is your check engine light on? feel free to email me, i will ask some questions, and possibly provide a more complete answer.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
sounds like the alternator may be on its way out
There is a bit of muck in the carburettor.
Good luck
Get in the car start it up and warm it up rev it good and hard for 10 minutes look under the hood make sure everything is nice and secure. close the hood .Get back in the car and make sure to put on a seat belt because you shouldn't be driving without wearing it. It's just the safe thing to do. Than drive it around till your almost out of gas then find the nearest junk yard and drop it off. you might even get a few bucks for it. lol
start with the easier things ,,like air filter ,fuel filter and work towards the more difficult things
good luck
You will have a idle adjustment screw just next to the carburetter (not sure where it is on the injected models, but there will be one). It is a screw with a spring around it. Get your car hot, i.e run your engine for 5 mins (keep your foot on the accelerater if it keeps cutting out). Once hot just turn the screw a quarter turn at a time. You will hear the engine speed increase. When it has stopped 'hunting' and the revs are stable you should be fine. You will probably notice the revs drop slightly when you have the electrics on like the heater and lights which is why you are having trouble.
A lot of cars have these problems in the winter and this is the easiest way to fix it.
my suggestion is that if it cuts off when coming to a stop and starts right up.....Idle air control valve. when coming to a stop engine sits at idle while not having fuel applied, so iacv takes over and keeps car running. most often the throttle chamber has a build up of carbon that broke free, got lodged in iacv and caused it to fail. is your check engine light on? feel free to email me, i will ask some questions, and possibly provide a more complete answer.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
sounds like the alternator may be on its way out
There is a bit of muck in the carburettor.
Good luck
Get in the car start it up and warm it up rev it good and hard for 10 minutes look under the hood make sure everything is nice and secure. close the hood .Get back in the car and make sure to put on a seat belt because you shouldn't be driving without wearing it. It's just the safe thing to do. Than drive it around till your almost out of gas then find the nearest junk yard and drop it off. you might even get a few bucks for it. lol
start with the easier things ,,like air filter ,fuel filter and work towards the more difficult things
good luck
You will have a idle adjustment screw just next to the carburetter (not sure where it is on the injected models, but there will be one). It is a screw with a spring around it. Get your car hot, i.e run your engine for 5 mins (keep your foot on the accelerater if it keeps cutting out). Once hot just turn the screw a quarter turn at a time. You will hear the engine speed increase. When it has stopped 'hunting' and the revs are stable you should be fine. You will probably notice the revs drop slightly when you have the electrics on like the heater and lights which is why you are having trouble.
A lot of cars have these problems in the winter and this is the easiest way to fix it.
How much does it cost for..............?
How much does it cost to get a oil change and oil filter change and one tune up consisting of changing whatever is aplicable in you car like spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap distibutor rotor air filter and fuel filterHow much does it cost for..............?
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. '; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive';
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.
id say between 100-125
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. '; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive';
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.
id say between 100-125
What car services should I get for my car?
My jeep has 90,000 miles and I haven't really thought about maintenance til now. I get regular oil changes but that's about it. I was thinking about the following: tire rotation and balance, tune up, battery check, brakes? I don't recall that we have ever gotten any of those done and we got it used at 60,000 miles. Also, how do you know when you buy the tire rotation if they do a balance and alignment as well - are those both good to get / needed? What's important during a tune up? I have a coupon and it says it does: install new spark plug ; visually inspect ignition wires, distributor cap/rotor, filters and more ; set timing/adjust idle (if applicable) but I'm scared that if something is wrong they wouldn't fix it cuz they would charge extra since it just says visibly inspectWhat car services should I get for my car?
Have them check the oil filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and everything that should be replaced every so many miles. The fluids might need to be changed so make sure to get that checked too.What car services should I get for my car?
A tire rotation does not include an alignment...You need to set up an alignment and get your tires rotated at that time...and yes this is something that is good to have done from time to time. For a tune up you might need new spark plugs and wires...and have your timing checked....you might need a new air filter...That's right...they get you in for a tune up...plugs, wires, etc....and then hopefully they will get additional business by having other things that you need to have done. I wouldn't take my car anywhere unless you know someone that has used them with success...Good luck. I would just take it to someone that I could trust and pay for an inspection and go from there.
how could you forget the transmission oil change.i used to work at brake check before they found out i was giving discounts to pretty faces and family members and when they mean visually inspect thats what they do and tell you if they need to be replaced or not.balance and tire rotation you can tell if your tires are marked with white chalk and they have weights on the rim of the tire.as for alignment thats a diffrent step.
Have them check the oil filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and everything that should be replaced every so many miles. The fluids might need to be changed so make sure to get that checked too.What car services should I get for my car?
A tire rotation does not include an alignment...You need to set up an alignment and get your tires rotated at that time...and yes this is something that is good to have done from time to time. For a tune up you might need new spark plugs and wires...and have your timing checked....you might need a new air filter...That's right...they get you in for a tune up...plugs, wires, etc....and then hopefully they will get additional business by having other things that you need to have done. I wouldn't take my car anywhere unless you know someone that has used them with success...Good luck. I would just take it to someone that I could trust and pay for an inspection and go from there.
how could you forget the transmission oil change.i used to work at brake check before they found out i was giving discounts to pretty faces and family members and when they mean visually inspect thats what they do and tell you if they need to be replaced or not.balance and tire rotation you can tell if your tires are marked with white chalk and they have weights on the rim of the tire.as for alignment thats a diffrent step.
How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
First of all, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. #4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (no difference in rpm's when you remove plug wire). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. #4 seemed to have alot of play in the rockers. When I went to get the tools, a friend who was helping bumped the ignition and changed the cylinder position. I didn't look and loosened the rockers to adjust. Anyway, car would not start again. Adjusted back to where I thought they had been originally and got it to start, but dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when they are open? Any ideas why cylinder would be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even tried turning distributor to advance/retard. Still nothing. Just want to get it to where it's driveable again without dying if you stop. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
Ok first thing you need is a compression test in #4 if its below
100 it could be the valves are to tight,so If I remember right that has a overhead cam.take the cover off tap the ign,so the lobe is pointed up on #4 cylinder.You need two thickness gauges one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust.The intake will be somewhere around .010 if you look at the intake manifold where it goes against the head that will be the intake valve,the other will be the exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold will go up against the head where that lobe is.The adjustment of that one will be about .014 with the engine hot,so if the engine is cold reduce the setting .002,so the intake would be like .008 and the exhaust .012
now if you do a compression test and its 0-60 you may have burned valve.email me for more information lplysocr@aol.comHow do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
This was asked and responded to 10 minutes before this posting. BR549 gave a very good answer.camera hair ideas
Ok first thing you need is a compression test in #4 if its below
100 it could be the valves are to tight,so If I remember right that has a overhead cam.take the cover off tap the ign,so the lobe is pointed up on #4 cylinder.You need two thickness gauges one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust.The intake will be somewhere around .010 if you look at the intake manifold where it goes against the head that will be the intake valve,the other will be the exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold will go up against the head where that lobe is.The adjustment of that one will be about .014 with the engine hot,so if the engine is cold reduce the setting .002,so the intake would be like .008 and the exhaust .012
now if you do a compression test and its 0-60 you may have burned valve.email me for more information lplysocr@aol.comHow do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
This was asked and responded to 10 minutes before this posting. BR549 gave a very good answer.
Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ? Sparkplugs, Rotor, Distributor Cap, Sparkplug Wires and Oil change.Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
All modern cars self tune as you drive them. So you just replace parts that wear out. You got most the items of the tune up. Here's some more:
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
==
The only thing you have to be careful is the spark plug - torque spec. Make sure it is NOT too tight NOR too loose.
http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Spark-Plug
http://www.ehow.com/video_110_replace-sp
http://www.ehow.com/how_1874_tune-car.ht
Good Luck....Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Go to an auto parts store and get a Hanes manual. They have them for any modle of vehicle you can think of. Ive got one for every vehicle i own. They cover everything from tuning a vehicle up to rebuilding the engine. they are very handy with pictures and instructions on everything engine,electrical, body, drivetrain, maintence, etc. Around here they cost about $20. Any parts store will have them like Advance Auto, Autozone. Good luck and enjoy your Chevy.
Your vehicle maintenance schedule can be found in your car's owner manual. As memory serves, there is no cap and rotor to mess with, as they went with coilpacks. Cobolts were advertised to have 100,000 mile maintenance intervals, so more than likely, you will not need to change the plugs, wires, or coilpacks at this time. Oil changes, well, best basic rule on that is 3 months, 3000 miles between changes. Good luck.
All modern cars self tune as you drive them. So you just replace parts that wear out. You got most the items of the tune up. Here's some more:
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
==
The only thing you have to be careful is the spark plug - torque spec. Make sure it is NOT too tight NOR too loose.
http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Spark-Plug
http://www.ehow.com/video_110_replace-sp
http://www.ehow.com/how_1874_tune-car.ht
Good Luck....Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Go to an auto parts store and get a Hanes manual. They have them for any modle of vehicle you can think of. Ive got one for every vehicle i own. They cover everything from tuning a vehicle up to rebuilding the engine. they are very handy with pictures and instructions on everything engine,electrical, body, drivetrain, maintence, etc. Around here they cost about $20. Any parts store will have them like Advance Auto, Autozone. Good luck and enjoy your Chevy.
Your vehicle maintenance schedule can be found in your car's owner manual. As memory serves, there is no cap and rotor to mess with, as they went with coilpacks. Cobolts were advertised to have 100,000 mile maintenance intervals, so more than likely, you will not need to change the plugs, wires, or coilpacks at this time. Oil changes, well, best basic rule on that is 3 months, 3000 miles between changes. Good luck.
I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
My question isnt how it got there. It went through the rings, the gas was poured in the carb to prime the fuel pump. my fuel pump is good, my carb is good. Also It flooded it because i have a highrise intake and big carb also have a cam etc, and used the old spark plugs to attempt to test the engine. To much gas, not enough spark, flooded it. The thing is, is that i never managed to start it although i turned it over a good bit, i was wanting to know how likely it is that my bearings and or rings are messed up? thats the question.... Im praying that new spark plugs and an oil/filter change fixes the problem, im also planning to buy a high performance distributor/coil/cap. Please .let me know what you think. Thanks alot. K.C.I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
diablo you need to do a compression test to see if the rings are all good. a tester should run around 25 dollars or so more for better quality type. then you have the motor cranked 5 vevelutions each cylinder , writing the numbers you get. the variation should be less than 15 lbs or so any that read drasticly different should be rechecked and then noted. much lower would be blown rings. ps you dont prime a fuel pump pouring fuel into an engine thats just priming the cylinders.
www.mycarandineedhelp.com its free and its meI have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
Just cleaned everything Drain and run a air hose in the oil plug%26gt; with oil fill off it will dry out the gas%26gt; Fill and run%26gt;
Don't go completely off my source because im just a garage mechanic with no schooling, but i wouldn't think the rings and bearings would go bad, the only thing i know of that causes that is substances such as metal shavings from old parts, ect. getting in between the bearings and scraping them up.
I would replace the rings to be safe, i doubt it hurt them but id rather be safe than sorry.
probably washed down the rings not a big problem you will have to crank it until compression comes up without feeding it anymore fuel crank it a few times to get oil back into the rings make sure you are up on number one on the compression stroke if you have spark it should fire and run bad for a while then get better set timing
diablo you need to do a compression test to see if the rings are all good. a tester should run around 25 dollars or so more for better quality type. then you have the motor cranked 5 vevelutions each cylinder , writing the numbers you get. the variation should be less than 15 lbs or so any that read drasticly different should be rechecked and then noted. much lower would be blown rings. ps you dont prime a fuel pump pouring fuel into an engine thats just priming the cylinders.
www.mycarandineedhelp.com its free and its meI have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
Just cleaned everything Drain and run a air hose in the oil plug%26gt; with oil fill off it will dry out the gas%26gt; Fill and run%26gt;
Don't go completely off my source because im just a garage mechanic with no schooling, but i wouldn't think the rings and bearings would go bad, the only thing i know of that causes that is substances such as metal shavings from old parts, ect. getting in between the bearings and scraping them up.
I would replace the rings to be safe, i doubt it hurt them but id rather be safe than sorry.
probably washed down the rings not a big problem you will have to crank it until compression comes up without feeding it anymore fuel crank it a few times to get oil back into the rings make sure you are up on number one on the compression stroke if you have spark it should fire and run bad for a while then get better set timing
Can old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
I installed a new engine, and used the same spark plug wires, not knowing how old they were. I changed my oil at 500 miles, and noticed lately that there was a severe loss of power. I saw sparking between the wires and towards the nearest ground. I figure this is because they're old. Before I go to the Parts store, is there anything else that might cause this loss of power, or is this the likely cause. Timing is perfect, all sensors are new, check engine light not on. Distributor making contact. EGR seems a little noisy, but not enough to cause a problem like this. Also, when injectors were bad, check engine light came on before, so I don't think this is a possibility. Any thoughts?Can old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
very much so. you will have dead cylinders (misses) in the engine. you will smell the unburned fuel as it gets worseCan old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
Yes, they begin to jump sparks into each other and other metal they contact I would definitely change the plugs and the wires. you will be surprised at the difference.
yep major powerloss and missing fire
YES the sparks you saw mean no spark inside the cylinder so you are wasting alot of gas-at 2.50 per gallon you can easily afford GOOD wires
very much so. you will have dead cylinders (misses) in the engine. you will smell the unburned fuel as it gets worseCan old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
Yes, they begin to jump sparks into each other and other metal they contact I would definitely change the plugs and the wires. you will be surprised at the difference.
yep major powerloss and missing fire
YES the sparks you saw mean no spark inside the cylinder so you are wasting alot of gas-at 2.50 per gallon you can easily afford GOOD wires
305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
I just put an 81 350 in my 89 chevy truck that had TBI. I put the TBI on the 350 with an edelbrock in take and a adaptor plate to put the TBI on the 4 barrel in take. right now everything is hooked up except the O2 sensor and it starts fine and idles but if you give it some gas or just start to go it runs like crap. almost dies. but if I give it full throttle it runs pretty strong. but when you get up to speed and the rpms drop down it runs like crap again. I keep adjusting the distributor but it doesn't change anything except the idle. I'm tired of putting money into this and I really don't want to go threw the process of changing it to a carb. and having to buy a fuel regulator that will work with a return line. How can I get this to run good with out dropping to much money???305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
The problem is that your 81 intake manifold is a dual plane design and those two little fuel injectors cant send the fuel down all of the intake planes equally. IF IT IS NOT caused by a massive vacuum leak or plugged fuel filter. You need another manifold (I ve never seen one to covert an old carb engine to throttle body but if it exists www.jegs.com will have it or can get it) ONE LAST THOUGHT check your map sensor and make sure its getting proper vacuum305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
Your EGR valve is bad, I would say that your spark plugs are fouling out too. And the motor is loading up on gas and the fumes burn your eyes and the exhaust is blowing black as soot, am I right......than your EGR valve is bad! Let me guess when you turn the distributor until it runs smooth you don't have any power and the motor coughs and sputters when you give it gas,and when you trun it back the other way you have power but the motor runs rough!
The original TBI intake manifold should bolt right on the older engine. the manifolds didn't change till they went to the vortec engine. It should work. You do need the oxygen sensor though. that can be causing alot of your problems. I would start with that and if that don't help put the TBI intake on it. And also you need to set your timing with a timing light. They are critical on timing.
check vacumn leaks under tbi wrong intake ?
when you bought edelbrock manifold did it have instructions on where to put o2 senors ? as this sensior controls inject system most times o2 sensor is in exhaust manifold or pipe before cat if wires left unpluged computor can not tell inject and ign timing what to do so if you use headers on left side there should be pipe plug thread for o2 sensor useing restor is not a good cure as sensor resistance changes as load on engine changes exhaust temp not shure if old intake manifold will work as it set up for 2 plane tbi use plumemm chamber intake i think if your state emissions will let you go carb engine and distrib get trans shop to make trans shift with out computor but if not you need intake from tbi engine and distrib i have never tried useing older engine to tbi i most times go other way late model engine to early car but let me know if you need more info
The problem is that your 81 intake manifold is a dual plane design and those two little fuel injectors cant send the fuel down all of the intake planes equally. IF IT IS NOT caused by a massive vacuum leak or plugged fuel filter. You need another manifold (I ve never seen one to covert an old carb engine to throttle body but if it exists www.jegs.com will have it or can get it) ONE LAST THOUGHT check your map sensor and make sure its getting proper vacuum305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
Your EGR valve is bad, I would say that your spark plugs are fouling out too. And the motor is loading up on gas and the fumes burn your eyes and the exhaust is blowing black as soot, am I right......than your EGR valve is bad! Let me guess when you turn the distributor until it runs smooth you don't have any power and the motor coughs and sputters when you give it gas,and when you trun it back the other way you have power but the motor runs rough!
The original TBI intake manifold should bolt right on the older engine. the manifolds didn't change till they went to the vortec engine. It should work. You do need the oxygen sensor though. that can be causing alot of your problems. I would start with that and if that don't help put the TBI intake on it. And also you need to set your timing with a timing light. They are critical on timing.
check vacumn leaks under tbi wrong intake ?
when you bought edelbrock manifold did it have instructions on where to put o2 senors ? as this sensior controls inject system most times o2 sensor is in exhaust manifold or pipe before cat if wires left unpluged computor can not tell inject and ign timing what to do so if you use headers on left side there should be pipe plug thread for o2 sensor useing restor is not a good cure as sensor resistance changes as load on engine changes exhaust temp not shure if old intake manifold will work as it set up for 2 plane tbi use plumemm chamber intake i think if your state emissions will let you go carb engine and distrib get trans shop to make trans shift with out computor but if not you need intake from tbi engine and distrib i have never tried useing older engine to tbi i most times go other way late model engine to early car but let me know if you need more info
I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
i just got a 88 accord carberated 4 cyl. i noticed tape holding on a part to where distributor cap is. it has 2 hoses off end and when it fell off when i changed plugs still ran. well driving home must have come loose call now wont idle. it goes into 2-3' opening on side of dist. cap and has a little dipstick on end, what is it? should dip stick be side to side in hole, trying to put back on but am lost anyone know what it is, how to fix and cost?I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
What your describing sounds like the vacuum control for timing advance-thats not a dip stick it's a broken lever. get it fixedI have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
I agree with Mike, either replace it yourself with a new one or go to a mechanic. I can guarantee your car is gonna stop running if you don't. Look at it realistically, that was probably an original part, the car got 20+ years out of it, pretty cheap it you average it out.beauty in eyes Homemade Duvet Cover
What your describing sounds like the vacuum control for timing advance-thats not a dip stick it's a broken lever. get it fixedI have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
I agree with Mike, either replace it yourself with a new one or go to a mechanic. I can guarantee your car is gonna stop running if you don't. Look at it realistically, that was probably an original part, the car got 20+ years out of it, pretty cheap it you average it out.
Math question need help with how to set it up?
Sugar Spectral is a company that manufactures Halloween candy. It has two candy factories, Factory A and Factory
B, and two distributors for its product, Distributor 1 and Distributor 2. In September Distributor 1 needs 8,000
pounds of candy and Distributor 2 needs 7,000 pounds. Factory A has 10,000 pounds ready to ship and Factory B
11,000 pounds. Shipping costs per pound from factories to distributors are given below.
Distributor 1 Distributor 2
Factory A $1.00 $0.60
Factory B $1.20 $0.70
a) How much candy should Sugar Spectrals ship from each factory to each distributor if shipping costs are to be
kept to a minimum?
b) Suppose the price of shipping from Factory A to Distributor 1 doubles. How does this change the optimal
solution?Math question need help with how to set it up?
You've got 4 quantities:
A1, A2, B1, B2 representing amount from each factory to each distributor.
We'll figure the costs in units of per 100 lbs.
to get rid of the decimals.
Total cost is:
a1 * 100 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
and
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
Also
a1 + a2 %26lt; 100
b1 + b2 %26lt; 110
Cost now is
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 9600 - 120 a1 + 4900 - 70 a2
-20 a1 -10 a2 + 14500 is the cost
a1 + a2 = 100
So make a1 80 (most D1 can handle), a2 20 (the rest of A),
b1 0, and b2 50
Cost is then
14500 - 80* 20 - 20 * 10 = 14500 - 1600 - 200 = 12700, as follows:
Returning to the original numbers:
8000 * 1.00 + 2000 * 0.60 + 0 * 1.20 + 5000 * 0.70 =
8000 + 1200 + 3500 = 12700.
If the cost from A -%26gt; D1 doubles, that of course changes everything:
Now we have
A: 2.00 0.60
B: 1.20 0.70
Now B has an advantage of 80c/lb over A to D1
and A has an advantage of 10c/lb over B to D2.
That makes it even more obvious what to do.
We ship all we can on those two routes, and the shipments need not be split.
8000 B -%26gt; D1 (cost $9600)
7000 A -%26gt; D2 (cost $4200)
Total $13800.
Going through the calculation to check:
Cost = a1 * 200 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
200 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
80 a1 - 10 a2 + 9600 + 4900
80a1 - 10 a2 + 14500
To minimize that, it's clear that we should make a1 to be 0,
since it has a positive coefficient, and a2 = 70 (or 7000 lbs).
Cost then is 14500 - 10 * 70 = 14500 - 700 = 13800.
.
B, and two distributors for its product, Distributor 1 and Distributor 2. In September Distributor 1 needs 8,000
pounds of candy and Distributor 2 needs 7,000 pounds. Factory A has 10,000 pounds ready to ship and Factory B
11,000 pounds. Shipping costs per pound from factories to distributors are given below.
Distributor 1 Distributor 2
Factory A $1.00 $0.60
Factory B $1.20 $0.70
a) How much candy should Sugar Spectrals ship from each factory to each distributor if shipping costs are to be
kept to a minimum?
b) Suppose the price of shipping from Factory A to Distributor 1 doubles. How does this change the optimal
solution?Math question need help with how to set it up?
You've got 4 quantities:
A1, A2, B1, B2 representing amount from each factory to each distributor.
We'll figure the costs in units of per 100 lbs.
to get rid of the decimals.
Total cost is:
a1 * 100 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
and
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
Also
a1 + a2 %26lt; 100
b1 + b2 %26lt; 110
Cost now is
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 9600 - 120 a1 + 4900 - 70 a2
-20 a1 -10 a2 + 14500 is the cost
a1 + a2 = 100
So make a1 80 (most D1 can handle), a2 20 (the rest of A),
b1 0, and b2 50
Cost is then
14500 - 80* 20 - 20 * 10 = 14500 - 1600 - 200 = 12700, as follows:
Returning to the original numbers:
8000 * 1.00 + 2000 * 0.60 + 0 * 1.20 + 5000 * 0.70 =
8000 + 1200 + 3500 = 12700.
If the cost from A -%26gt; D1 doubles, that of course changes everything:
Now we have
A: 2.00 0.60
B: 1.20 0.70
Now B has an advantage of 80c/lb over A to D1
and A has an advantage of 10c/lb over B to D2.
That makes it even more obvious what to do.
We ship all we can on those two routes, and the shipments need not be split.
8000 B -%26gt; D1 (cost $9600)
7000 A -%26gt; D2 (cost $4200)
Total $13800.
Going through the calculation to check:
Cost = a1 * 200 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
200 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
80 a1 - 10 a2 + 9600 + 4900
80a1 - 10 a2 + 14500
To minimize that, it's clear that we should make a1 to be 0,
since it has a positive coefficient, and a2 = 70 (or 7000 lbs).
Cost then is 14500 - 10 * 70 = 14500 - 700 = 13800.
.
How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
First off, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. #4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (pull plug wire and makes no difference in the rpms). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. I thought they had alot of play in them, more than the others. While I was getting the tools out, a friend bumped the ignition and changed location of the valves. I adjusted it like whenIi checked the first time. Car would not start. Adjusted back to where I tyhought they had been. Got it to start again, but either dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when the cylinder is open? Any ideas why the cylinder could be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Tried turning distributor also. No difference. But need to get it back to where it can be driven at least. Any info on the valves would be appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
Intake 0.008 in
Exhaust 0.010 in
This is with the piston in the firing position, rockers off the cam lobe.
It is highly unlikely that the lash adjustment has anything to do with the cylinder not firing (dead cylinder). It is possible that having no lash would cause it, but that is not apt to occurr on it's own. It is possible that you now have the valves set ';too tight';.
I would suspect the real problem to be a burnt exhaust valve assuming of course there was spark at the wire, and the plug is good. Swap plugs, and wires with #3 cylinder. If miss is still on #4, and there is valve lash, do a compression test. I bet it will be low.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
I see you also turned the distributor. Now you also need a timing lite to set the timing. You can't jjust guess at where it was .Did you check to see if spark plug was actually firing ?? You must turn the engine until the piston is at top dead center. This is when the valve you are working on is in the closed position. Then you must turn the engine until the other valve closes so you can adjust it. I would stop there as you don't have a valve problem. If the spark plug doesn't fire the engine won't start. If the timing is off from turning tge distributor the engine may not start and may die when it idles. You need go to auto store and get CHILTONS book so you can fix what you screwed up. and thats just the way it is !!
Intake 0.008 in
Exhaust 0.010 in
This is with the piston in the firing position, rockers off the cam lobe.
It is highly unlikely that the lash adjustment has anything to do with the cylinder not firing (dead cylinder). It is possible that having no lash would cause it, but that is not apt to occurr on it's own. It is possible that you now have the valves set ';too tight';.
I would suspect the real problem to be a burnt exhaust valve assuming of course there was spark at the wire, and the plug is good. Swap plugs, and wires with #3 cylinder. If miss is still on #4, and there is valve lash, do a compression test. I bet it will be low.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
I see you also turned the distributor. Now you also need a timing lite to set the timing. You can't jjust guess at where it was .Did you check to see if spark plug was actually firing ?? You must turn the engine until the piston is at top dead center. This is when the valve you are working on is in the closed position. Then you must turn the engine until the other valve closes so you can adjust it. I would stop there as you don't have a valve problem. If the spark plug doesn't fire the engine won't start. If the timing is off from turning tge distributor the engine may not start and may die when it idles. You need go to auto store and get CHILTONS book so you can fix what you screwed up. and thats just the way it is !!
1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
How do you access the motor well enough to change out the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap %26amp; rotor.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
there is a ';dog house'; you have to remove. It is the hump below the lower center of the dash. lots of times they have drink holder attached to them. there are two latches across the bottom(might be slightly under the floor board carpet) and one latch one the right an left side. Undo the latches and snake it out from between the seats. Sometimes you have to move the center console back(also attached with latches)1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
What you can't get from inside the van either underneath or jack up the van and get it between the tire and the fender. THere is a leather like flap. That you lift up and then you can view.
what tootsie said or remove the dash
take the body off the frame.
No not really, remove the engine cover inside the van for cap and rotor and wire access and the rear plugs, jack up the van and reach thru the wheel well for the front 4
there is a ';dog house'; you have to remove. It is the hump below the lower center of the dash. lots of times they have drink holder attached to them. there are two latches across the bottom(might be slightly under the floor board carpet) and one latch one the right an left side. Undo the latches and snake it out from between the seats. Sometimes you have to move the center console back(also attached with latches)1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
What you can't get from inside the van either underneath or jack up the van and get it between the tire and the fender. THere is a leather like flap. That you lift up and then you can view.
what tootsie said or remove the dash
take the body off the frame.
No not really, remove the engine cover inside the van for cap and rotor and wire access and the rear plugs, jack up the van and reach thru the wheel well for the front 4
Misfiring issues?
have a 1996 chevy 10 4.3 throttle body and it has random misfires during steady driving. During idle and accelerating it oesn't miss but it doesn't do it every time while driving.The check engine light flashes every once in awhile. The first time it flashed i got it check out and it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So I changed it and today the same thing come up again. I have changed Plugs, cleaned throttle body, clean distributor. The only thing I haven't done is replaced the plug wires and the distributor and rotor. plz someone help me and don't say take it to a mechanic either because if i can't learn how to fix it then it doesn't matter.Misfiring issues?
Jed--
The FIRST place to look for a mis-fire is the secondary ignition. Check the plugs and the wires.
Give the cap a good look as well (but less likely than the wires and plugs)
What were the codes you retrieved? Any others besides the P0300?
There are other things that can lead to a random mis-fire. Fuel restriction. VERY rough roads can cause s false reading, especially if it is a manual trans.Misfiring issues?
Try to put some fuel cleaner in the system, sounds like one of the injectors are dirty. Clean them as best as you can, if that doesnt work call me back. :)
My 4.3 did the same thing when the thermostat was stuck open. The engine runs too cool and messes up the fuel mixture and timing.
change plug wires and cap and rotor im betting its wires or an ecm going out
You've been given suggestions on things to do. Why dont you do them, instead of coming in here asking the same question over and over?
You are over your head on this one. The shade tree days are about gone. Suck it up, take it in and get a proper diagnosis. You can throw parts and money at it all day, if you want to, but to do it right, with a logical and surgical approach, requires equipment that you ain't got.
Jed--
The FIRST place to look for a mis-fire is the secondary ignition. Check the plugs and the wires.
Give the cap a good look as well (but less likely than the wires and plugs)
What were the codes you retrieved? Any others besides the P0300?
There are other things that can lead to a random mis-fire. Fuel restriction. VERY rough roads can cause s false reading, especially if it is a manual trans.Misfiring issues?
Try to put some fuel cleaner in the system, sounds like one of the injectors are dirty. Clean them as best as you can, if that doesnt work call me back. :)
My 4.3 did the same thing when the thermostat was stuck open. The engine runs too cool and messes up the fuel mixture and timing.
change plug wires and cap and rotor im betting its wires or an ecm going out
You've been given suggestions on things to do. Why dont you do them, instead of coming in here asking the same question over and over?
You are over your head on this one. The shade tree days are about gone. Suck it up, take it in and get a proper diagnosis. You can throw parts and money at it all day, if you want to, but to do it right, with a logical and surgical approach, requires equipment that you ain't got.
How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
Transport For London ( TfL ) sponsored and paid for a major junction change in Waddon, Croydon to facilitate the construction of a 'Tramstop'. Residents and Friends of the Earth objected but Croydon over-ruled the complaints with assurances that traffic wouldn't increase. In fact, traffic has almost doubled, including huge numbers of rat-running HGV's and no less 1000 EMPTY buses a week just taking drivers to-and-from depots on their breaks. Applications under the Frredom of information Act prove that Croydon Council have consistently lied about not having comparative traffic data before the junction change, whilst simultaneously declining to do anything about the breach of Unitary Development Plan which says they will protect Local Distributor Roads from through traffic. The '93 Environmental Protection Acts specifically exclude Traffic from being determined a 'Statutory Nuisance'. What can we do?? Terry HaynesHow can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
Hhhmm? Don't know much about metropolitan issues in the UK. Here in the United States, there exists protocol which is enforced by law. If you could examine the history of the process in which this formed, you may find something which will help you. Many cases here require a comprehensive 'Impact Study.' Sometimes too, you'll find political maneuvering to be the cause. The one thing you'll need to do is document everything. Create a class action interest or suit. Something will almost certainly hit the fan. Good luck.How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
This is the sort of issues that you should have raised during the recent local elections in Croydon. Having missed that publicity blitz, all I can suggest is that you contact the following departments.
Highways (Croydon)
Transport (Westminster)
and your local Asssembly Member for Croydon
i agree with harry
blah blah blah, I just want two points.
Hire Osama to do some (harmless) pyrotechnics -- but with lots of noise.
that should workmusic player funny myspace
Hhhmm? Don't know much about metropolitan issues in the UK. Here in the United States, there exists protocol which is enforced by law. If you could examine the history of the process in which this formed, you may find something which will help you. Many cases here require a comprehensive 'Impact Study.' Sometimes too, you'll find political maneuvering to be the cause. The one thing you'll need to do is document everything. Create a class action interest or suit. Something will almost certainly hit the fan. Good luck.How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
This is the sort of issues that you should have raised during the recent local elections in Croydon. Having missed that publicity blitz, all I can suggest is that you contact the following departments.
Highways (Croydon)
Transport (Westminster)
and your local Asssembly Member for Croydon
i agree with harry
blah blah blah, I just want two points.
Hire Osama to do some (harmless) pyrotechnics -- but with lots of noise.
that should work
What possiblies make car stalled?
I have a Eclipse spyder 97 gs 5 speed none turbo, keep stalling when i drive it off the freeway and enter the small road, then it slow down then it stall. I try to start and it start for 1 or 2 second then it die.,,have to wait like 30minute then it start up again and drivable again.
Here is what it think it might cause and i planning to change if you guy agree.
1) IAC -Idle air control = maybe too many dust modd onto it.
2) MAP- Manifold air pressure = not sure how i gonna fix this.
3) Thottle body = not sure how i gonna get this clean or fix or change
4) spark plug +spark wire + distributor cab are all not good.
these are all i can think that make the car stall, even car trying to stall while running on freeway. Happen to me once.
What do u guy think.What possiblies make car stalled?
Replace your fuel filter.
check your fuel lines for leak.
Meanwhile if you want a tune up go for it. Likely there are many issues.
Here is what it think it might cause and i planning to change if you guy agree.
1) IAC -Idle air control = maybe too many dust modd onto it.
2) MAP- Manifold air pressure = not sure how i gonna fix this.
3) Thottle body = not sure how i gonna get this clean or fix or change
4) spark plug +spark wire + distributor cab are all not good.
these are all i can think that make the car stall, even car trying to stall while running on freeway. Happen to me once.
What do u guy think.What possiblies make car stalled?
Replace your fuel filter.
check your fuel lines for leak.
Meanwhile if you want a tune up go for it. Likely there are many issues.
1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Car dies randomly at red lights?
I have a 67 impala and just got a tune up (changed air filter and spark plugs myself) and got a well respected mechanic to change the starter, change the spark plug wires and distributor caps and also gave it a tune up (fixed the timing and adjusted the carburetor). Now when I drive it, it will sometimes die on me at red lights waiting for it to turn green and when I start it back up it will have a ';grrr'; sound when I turn the key (only sometimes).
What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.
What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.
Ford taurus Distributor cap?
I have a 2000 ford Taurus my check engine light is on. I got it diagnosed they said I have a cylinder misfire. They said check my distributor cap. I called auto zone to see how much a distributor cap costs and they said my car doesn檛 have one. If I don檛 have a distributor cap what do I have? and how to I fix a cylinder misfire? I have already got my wires and plugs checked and changed.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
If you are sure that all the plugs are good, and that the wires are ok and properly seated, then it may be that the coil/s have gone out, or have a busted tower on one or more of them.
Now the 3.0 DOHC has six such coils sold each, in which case replace the one that has the misfire.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.
The 3.0 OHC engine has one, and the complete unit will have to be replaced.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
';2000 Ford Taurus'; Distributor / Ignition
http://autos.aol.com/cars-Ford-Taurus-20
BondysTaurus's 2000 Ford Taurus
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3809753
This image shows the spark plugs ';wires'; going to ';distributor';
That distributor is not old rotary type, but you could check wires and connections,
if able with tools, remove plug caps and check inside,
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_imag
1996-2000 Ford Taurus Ignition Coil for Models with V6 3.0L
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/Fo
HOME%26gt;PARTS%26gt;IGNITION (TUNE UP)
Coil - Ignition
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-ford-
Taurus user guide pdf ~save as
http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuot
1989 Ford Taurus 3.0 Liter Profile Ignition Pickup ( 89 appears to have rotor)
http://autorepair.about.com/library/imag
..
Cars dont use a dist. any more.. it has coils usually 2 for a 4 cyl. or 3 for a v-6, just follopw your plug wires off the plugs and down to the engine block, the coil pack is there, and each one has 2 screws and it just plugs in, you can test them w/ a ohm meter,
It has a coil pack not a distributor. Run a can of Sea Foam through the gas to clean the fuel injectors and the problem should go away as long as there is no problem with the plugs and wires. Hope I have been helpful.
you don,t have a distributor in that car.you have a coil pack. you could have a bad plug wire or 1 of the towers on the coil pack could be corroded or bad.
If you are sure that all the plugs are good, and that the wires are ok and properly seated, then it may be that the coil/s have gone out, or have a busted tower on one or more of them.
Now the 3.0 DOHC has six such coils sold each, in which case replace the one that has the misfire.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.
The 3.0 OHC engine has one, and the complete unit will have to be replaced.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
';2000 Ford Taurus'; Distributor / Ignition
http://autos.aol.com/cars-Ford-Taurus-20
BondysTaurus's 2000 Ford Taurus
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3809753
This image shows the spark plugs ';wires'; going to ';distributor';
That distributor is not old rotary type, but you could check wires and connections,
if able with tools, remove plug caps and check inside,
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_imag
1996-2000 Ford Taurus Ignition Coil for Models with V6 3.0L
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/Fo
HOME%26gt;PARTS%26gt;IGNITION (TUNE UP)
Coil - Ignition
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-ford-
Taurus user guide pdf ~save as
http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuot
1989 Ford Taurus 3.0 Liter Profile Ignition Pickup ( 89 appears to have rotor)
http://autorepair.about.com/library/imag
..
Cars dont use a dist. any more.. it has coils usually 2 for a 4 cyl. or 3 for a v-6, just follopw your plug wires off the plugs and down to the engine block, the coil pack is there, and each one has 2 screws and it just plugs in, you can test them w/ a ohm meter,
It has a coil pack not a distributor. Run a can of Sea Foam through the gas to clean the fuel injectors and the problem should go away as long as there is no problem with the plugs and wires. Hope I have been helpful.
you don,t have a distributor in that car.you have a coil pack. you could have a bad plug wire or 1 of the towers on the coil pack could be corroded or bad.
1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
i had a friend change my spark plugs and wires some how he didn't remember wire the wires went on the new distributor cap is it anyway to find out or does anyone know we have the firing order but don't know were the go on the distributor please help.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
Driver side front to rear is # 1 3 5 7
Pass side front to rear is # 2 4 6 8
Rotor/firing order goes clockwise
Remove #1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)
Now using a 5/8'; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and ';tighten'; the bolt that will turn engine over
Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.
Now pull dizzy cap off.
What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your #1
Put #1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint ';1'; on the dizzy cap in right place
Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the #1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.
Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC
Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.
Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.
The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.where did my folder walk ps3 on my monitor
firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
Driver side front to rear is # 1 3 5 7
Pass side front to rear is # 2 4 6 8
Rotor/firing order goes clockwise
Remove #1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)
Now using a 5/8'; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and ';tighten'; the bolt that will turn engine over
Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.
Now pull dizzy cap off.
What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your #1
Put #1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint ';1'; on the dizzy cap in right place
Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the #1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.
Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC
Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.
Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.
The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.
Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
The largest soft drink distributor I work for ( over 10 yrs) has recently re-structured posistions in the sales area and made everyone in their current posistions ';re-interview'; for the job, giving it a slightly different title, and minor description changes. Many will lose their jobs, and the rest will suffer loss in wages. Now , it may trickle down to the actual delivery area which SEEMS to cut and dry to do the same thing. How can they get away with it, and where do we stand if they try?Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .
Work is business and business is about contracts .
What do your contracts say about wages ?
And when do they expire ?
%26gt;
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .
Work is business and business is about contracts .
What do your contracts say about wages ?
And when do they expire ?
%26gt;
I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
How to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
My 1971 Chevy C10 [bought in '81] Pickup [shortbed/fleetside] 250 Engine, 3/4 ton Transmission + ';Four on the Floor'; [compound low] + Positraction %26gt;
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
I took my 1996, Honda Accord LX (115,000 miles) into the local Honda dealership for a regular oil change when they advised me to get my Splark Plug Tube Seals and my Distributor O-Ring replaced completely because there was A LOT of oil around my spark plugs. They showed it to me and when they pulled them out they were dripping a lot of oil. They said it was defintely not a good thing at all and it needed to be fixed within a few days or it would ruin my car. IS IT THAT URGENT???? I have someone who can replace them for a fourth of the cost but not until this weekend. I just need to know if this situation needs to be treated immediately!How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
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