Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break upIs it normal to hump blankets 4getting married
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
Last summer it blew some freeze plugs so he got them changed. Then son and his friend were gonna start the truck and the Starter hung hung up and is shorted out the solenoid. So instead of his friend waiting until he got the solenoid to replace it He took it off and said OH THIS Is WHAT You need. So his friend was drunk and could not remember how to rewire the solenoid. And he wired it backwards and messed up the Alternator. So then we had to replace that. We changed the rotor bug, the distributor cap, and plug wires, the coil and coil wire And still nothing it will crank but will not start. We checked it is getting spark.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
Spark is good, how about fuel? It could be the fuel pump, or the fuse to the fuel pump if it is electric. Some of those are mechanical and some are electric. Depends on the engine. Spray some either (starting fluid) into the carb or intake depending on the engine, if it starts it is likely not getting fuel. Is it getting enough air? to test that just take out the air filter and try to start it. If it starts replace the air filter.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
sounds like it could be a fuel injection problem. has the fuel filter been changed? also you can check your fuel pump by unplugging the fuel line near tha gas tank then try cranking your engine. if alot of fuel sprays out the pump is good but if little or no fuel is spraying out its definitely the pump. also check your injectors they may be bad or dirty
First what is a rotor bug.??? Second when replacing the ign. wires are they in the right firing order.? Third you may be getting spark BUT is that spark hot enough.? I'd replace the electronic spark control..even if just for GP now... and finally before anything make sure your getting gas .. GL
you change spark plug wire check make sure the fire order is correct.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay?
Spark is good, how about fuel? It could be the fuel pump, or the fuse to the fuel pump if it is electric. Some of those are mechanical and some are electric. Depends on the engine. Spray some either (starting fluid) into the carb or intake depending on the engine, if it starts it is likely not getting fuel. Is it getting enough air? to test that just take out the air filter and try to start it. If it starts replace the air filter.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
sounds like it could be a fuel injection problem. has the fuel filter been changed? also you can check your fuel pump by unplugging the fuel line near tha gas tank then try cranking your engine. if alot of fuel sprays out the pump is good but if little or no fuel is spraying out its definitely the pump. also check your injectors they may be bad or dirty
First what is a rotor bug.??? Second when replacing the ign. wires are they in the right firing order.? Third you may be getting spark BUT is that spark hot enough.? I'd replace the electronic spark control..even if just for GP now... and finally before anything make sure your getting gas .. GL
you change spark plug wire check make sure the fire order is correct.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay?
1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
How the hell do you get the bolt off the rotor? It's turned at a bad angle and I can't even see if it's a phillips head, or what. Also, the valve cover gasket is pretty much shot and there's oil in all the spark plug wells, the car should still run, right? It's worked fine up until now, and I know it needs to be fixed, but the car stopped running to day and I changed the plugs, wires, and distributor cap, but I can't get the damn rotor off. I tried restarting the car with the new stuff and the old rotor, but it still won't fire. Hopefully when I get back under the distributor cap the rotor bolt will be a more manageable place. Any other ideas?94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
I posted this question earlier today, but after reading the responses, realized that I should have included some more pertinent information. So, here it goes... I'm looking for some direction on how I should be approaching a career change into the wine business. I need to earn a respectable living and do something stimulating. So, working in a tasting room at a winery seems to be out due to not enough income and dealing with the same 5-10 wines EVERY day. I'd ideally like to work for a distributor/importer or become a sommelier/assistant sommelier, but from my research, both of these positions require a few years of experience at a minimum. Does anyone know if I have any PRAYER of landing one of these types of jobs right off the bat with no experience? And if so, what do I have to do to land one? By no experience I am only referring to working in the wine business. I have been an avid wine lover for 6 years, have read many encyclopedic wine volumes, and really know my stuff!Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
How much could i see my truck for?
I want to get rid of my big truck and get a small car cause of gas
I have a 94 Ford F-150 5-8 liter 4x4 extended cab step up with 188285 miles
it has new brake pads front and back, new ball joints in front, new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor runs, and oil changed great and pretty good on gas for a big truckHow much could i see my truck for?
you can see it for free, but only sell it for 2500 or lessHow much could i see my truck for?
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book), fill in all the stats on your truck, and it will tell you how much you can get out of it.
look at kbb.com or edmunds.com for a resale price, however it will probably be a little less since these types of vechiles are not in demand at the moment. .
At this time trucks like yours are not in high demand. So what you think it is worth, divide that by 2 and hope you can sell it. I have a truck like this and I know what it is worth, can I get that much for it, NO! If I want to sell it than I'll get about half of what its worth.. that is if I could find a buyer. So you will need to decide if the lost you get is worth the gas you'll save.how do you get wafflesfm how to break up with a boyfriend
I have a 94 Ford F-150 5-8 liter 4x4 extended cab step up with 188285 miles
it has new brake pads front and back, new ball joints in front, new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor runs, and oil changed great and pretty good on gas for a big truckHow much could i see my truck for?
you can see it for free, but only sell it for 2500 or lessHow much could i see my truck for?
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book), fill in all the stats on your truck, and it will tell you how much you can get out of it.
look at kbb.com or edmunds.com for a resale price, however it will probably be a little less since these types of vechiles are not in demand at the moment. .
At this time trucks like yours are not in high demand. So what you think it is worth, divide that by 2 and hope you can sell it. I have a truck like this and I know what it is worth, can I get that much for it, NO! If I want to sell it than I'll get about half of what its worth.. that is if I could find a buyer. So you will need to decide if the lost you get is worth the gas you'll save.
How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
I don't have the repair manual for a Ford Taurus 1996 V6 3.0 litres,so i don't know the firing order,i am not replacing the distributor cap,only the plugs.is the firing order very important when changing the plugs?
Thanks in advance.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
If you take out one plug, replace it and put the wire back on, then do the next one, until they're all changed, one by one, you cannot mix them up. If you have two wires loose at the same time, there's a chance you might mix them up- only 50% chance. If you take them all off, then there's a great chance some will be on wrong unless you label them, and you would do well to know the firing order to doublecheck your work to make sure they're labeled right. The bottom line is, if you do them one at a time, you don't have to know the firing order.
When you get ready to change the distributor cap, remember, one wire at a time. If you xerox the page from Chiltons Auto Repair showing the firing order diagram, that is good insurance for you, just in case.
They used to put the firing order on the intake manifold of engines. I haven't looked for years, though.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
No it's not important as long as you do one plug at a time.
ok bud it is your bible, no other way to say how important that is, ill post it later, are you sure its got a distributor?im gonna look in my book, just as soon as i finish dinner and banana split, and maybe a beer.
One at a time, no need to know firing order.
If you get them out of order then gas will build up in one piston when the plug doesn't fire and then it will backfire very badly, even shooting flames up your carburetor and damaging your engine. Do what everyone else said and change one plug at a time.
it can be criticle if you dont go one by one. you will find the firing order for this engine is somewhere on the engine usually on the intake manifold though just incase. as I recall you have a coil pack on the top of the engine and I believe each coil pack matched up to the spark plud they fired example the front left pack was to the front left plug, middle to middle plug etc. ps be sure to put some antiseize of the threads of the spark plug you are installing as they tend to gall in the threded part of the cylinder without this your next time may be the end of betsy the taurus.
Suggest to do one at a time, then no need to know firing order
Thanks in advance.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
If you take out one plug, replace it and put the wire back on, then do the next one, until they're all changed, one by one, you cannot mix them up. If you have two wires loose at the same time, there's a chance you might mix them up- only 50% chance. If you take them all off, then there's a great chance some will be on wrong unless you label them, and you would do well to know the firing order to doublecheck your work to make sure they're labeled right. The bottom line is, if you do them one at a time, you don't have to know the firing order.
When you get ready to change the distributor cap, remember, one wire at a time. If you xerox the page from Chiltons Auto Repair showing the firing order diagram, that is good insurance for you, just in case.
They used to put the firing order on the intake manifold of engines. I haven't looked for years, though.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
No it's not important as long as you do one plug at a time.
ok bud it is your bible, no other way to say how important that is, ill post it later, are you sure its got a distributor?im gonna look in my book, just as soon as i finish dinner and banana split, and maybe a beer.
One at a time, no need to know firing order.
If you get them out of order then gas will build up in one piston when the plug doesn't fire and then it will backfire very badly, even shooting flames up your carburetor and damaging your engine. Do what everyone else said and change one plug at a time.
it can be criticle if you dont go one by one. you will find the firing order for this engine is somewhere on the engine usually on the intake manifold though just incase. as I recall you have a coil pack on the top of the engine and I believe each coil pack matched up to the spark plud they fired example the front left pack was to the front left plug, middle to middle plug etc. ps be sure to put some antiseize of the threads of the spark plug you are installing as they tend to gall in the threded part of the cylinder without this your next time may be the end of betsy the taurus.
Suggest to do one at a time, then no need to know firing order
How is moisture getting inside my distributor cap?
Since I've had my car, it has always misfired in the rain, or even after a morning dew. I replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap thinking that the cap might have been cracked. I did NOT change the rotor, but should have. When I spray the engine with water late at night to look for sparks, there are sparks coming off of the distributor bolt. Water is still getting in there somehow. The car runs fine when it's nice and dry out, so the rotor really can't be that bad, it's just when water gets in there. The cap is nice and tight, and practically brand new. What can I do about this?How is moisture getting inside my distributor cap?
You need to check the rubber boots that's around the wire's going into the distibutor, if you are get spark at the distributor bolts you might wont to check the distributor housing to see if it as a crack in it. also check to see if you might have a wire rubbing and shorten out causing it to spark.
You need to check the rubber boots that's around the wire's going into the distibutor, if you are get spark at the distributor bolts you might wont to check the distributor housing to see if it as a crack in it. also check to see if you might have a wire rubbing and shorten out causing it to spark.
How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Hello!
So I bought a 1995 Dodge Colt, manual transmission, at the beginning of the summer and had a tune-up right away, where the mechanic said all was well with the car. Throughout the summer problems revealed themselves and I finally decided to get the car checked again.
About two and a half weeks ago I took my car in to get a wheel rotation and asked the mechanic to also check the engine, as it didn't have a lot of power in it (it was so weak... so so weak).
He called me back and I found out that the bolt on the distributor wasn't on, letting the distributor distribute power erroneously. As a result, the timing was way off and when the sparks went off to give power to the engine, the pistons were already half way down, thereby giving little or no power to the engine (or something like that, I'm speaking out of very late memory).
My father thinks that the mechanic I took this car to at the beginning of the summer when I first bought it, either took the bolt on the distributor off, or ';somehow'; missed the fact that it didn't have one (which would make them a very bad mechanic indeed).
I'm very paranoid about mechanics now, and people taking the bolt off, and I'm obsessed about the power of the engine. When I got my car back from the other guy, there was a hell of a lot more power in the engine!
I've taken the car in since to get new wheels and an oil change and can't help thinking, ';Did they do something to the distributor? Did they?!';
So the BIG question is: How can you tell if the timing is off a distributor.
Thank you in advance!How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Lack of power.
Hard starting.
Backfire.
Poor fuel mileage.How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
you can take it to a mechanic he can check it with a timing light, or you can rent a light and check it yourself, under the hood should tell you what the base timing is in form of degrees, most likely 5-12 or something. If its too far retarded, or not advanced enough, it will have low power and poor economy, advancing it too much can cause predetonation or knocking which means too much heat is built up in the combustion chambers, take it to a dealer and tell them to set the timing, I highly doubt the first mechanic even touched the ignition timing it was likely that way before hand and finally wiggled loose
Like you said you'd have a lack of power. Plus one old timer once told me on how to find out if you think something is out of timing or miss firing to put the car/truck in drive step on the break and the gas at the same time and if you hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust you have a miss fire. From there you trace it back from the spark plug to the distributor to the ignition control module (which controls timing). If any are out of wak then you'd see it being sluggish and miss firing.
What could of happened is that the bolt on the distributor may of not got tightened down and when the engine is running over a period of time it can vibrate out of the hole it came out of.The so called mechanic that did the tune up may of forgot to tighten it down when he may of got busy with something else temporary and forgot to tighten it.But what else can happen with timing is that if your car has a timing belt it can also jump timing if it is not replaced every so many miles like 30,000 is what is recommended.If you have a timing light look up the timing specs and check on it yourself to see where it is at.
So I bought a 1995 Dodge Colt, manual transmission, at the beginning of the summer and had a tune-up right away, where the mechanic said all was well with the car. Throughout the summer problems revealed themselves and I finally decided to get the car checked again.
About two and a half weeks ago I took my car in to get a wheel rotation and asked the mechanic to also check the engine, as it didn't have a lot of power in it (it was so weak... so so weak).
He called me back and I found out that the bolt on the distributor wasn't on, letting the distributor distribute power erroneously. As a result, the timing was way off and when the sparks went off to give power to the engine, the pistons were already half way down, thereby giving little or no power to the engine (or something like that, I'm speaking out of very late memory).
My father thinks that the mechanic I took this car to at the beginning of the summer when I first bought it, either took the bolt on the distributor off, or ';somehow'; missed the fact that it didn't have one (which would make them a very bad mechanic indeed).
I'm very paranoid about mechanics now, and people taking the bolt off, and I'm obsessed about the power of the engine. When I got my car back from the other guy, there was a hell of a lot more power in the engine!
I've taken the car in since to get new wheels and an oil change and can't help thinking, ';Did they do something to the distributor? Did they?!';
So the BIG question is: How can you tell if the timing is off a distributor.
Thank you in advance!How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Lack of power.
Hard starting.
Backfire.
Poor fuel mileage.How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
you can take it to a mechanic he can check it with a timing light, or you can rent a light and check it yourself, under the hood should tell you what the base timing is in form of degrees, most likely 5-12 or something. If its too far retarded, or not advanced enough, it will have low power and poor economy, advancing it too much can cause predetonation or knocking which means too much heat is built up in the combustion chambers, take it to a dealer and tell them to set the timing, I highly doubt the first mechanic even touched the ignition timing it was likely that way before hand and finally wiggled loose
Like you said you'd have a lack of power. Plus one old timer once told me on how to find out if you think something is out of timing or miss firing to put the car/truck in drive step on the break and the gas at the same time and if you hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust you have a miss fire. From there you trace it back from the spark plug to the distributor to the ignition control module (which controls timing). If any are out of wak then you'd see it being sluggish and miss firing.
What could of happened is that the bolt on the distributor may of not got tightened down and when the engine is running over a period of time it can vibrate out of the hole it came out of.The so called mechanic that did the tune up may of forgot to tighten it down when he may of got busy with something else temporary and forgot to tighten it.But what else can happen with timing is that if your car has a timing belt it can also jump timing if it is not replaced every so many miles like 30,000 is what is recommended.If you have a timing light look up the timing specs and check on it yourself to see where it is at.
When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
I have a '72 GMC Custom-1500, 350 engine/4 bbl Quadrajet 4MV, and an automatic transmission. I replaced points distributor with a HEI distributor. I don't believe advance is working. How can I check it without any special tools? Also, when I remove vacuum advance hose from carburetor, the engine idle doesn't change. Isn't idle suppose to increase or something?When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
There are two different kinds of vacuum ported and manifold. You vac advance is connected to the ported vacuum. There are two differences between these vacuum sources. Ported vacuum doesn't start until the carb plates uncover the port while manifold vacuum is constant. The other difference is that ported vacuum increase as the RPMs go up and manifold vacuum decreases. So, no you won檛 see an idle change when you disconnect your advance, and no you won檛 see it come on as your engine will not pull enough vacuum to pull the advance until it is under load. If you think that your advance is not working you can do the old mouth test, pull the cap and suck on the hose (or connect it to a vacuum source) the advance should move.When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
check that vac. line and filter, it sounds plugged.
If you follow the route of the vacuum advance line you will find it's plugged into the carburetor somewhere ABOVE the throttle plates. When the motor idles there's no vacuum above the plates. This is completely normal. To prove the advance mechanism is working plug it to a vacuum location below the throttle blades and place a finger beneath the vacuum canister rod that attaches to the breaker plate. Have someone start the motor. You should feel the rod pull toward you. You could also hook up a length of hose and connect it to the vacuum advance canister. Place it in your mouth and create vacuum. The canister rod will move if it's working properly.
The source location of vacuum for the vacuum advance canister was chanced in the late sixties for emissions purposes. Between you, I and the fence post your motor will run sharper if you leave the vacuum advance line plugged into a source below the throttle plates. You will find that the motor will sound less labored at idol and will pick up some RPM's. You may need to set the idol back down a bit. The motor will run better at light throttle. You may squeeze a little better fuel economy out of it.
There are two different kinds of vacuum ported and manifold. You vac advance is connected to the ported vacuum. There are two differences between these vacuum sources. Ported vacuum doesn't start until the carb plates uncover the port while manifold vacuum is constant. The other difference is that ported vacuum increase as the RPMs go up and manifold vacuum decreases. So, no you won檛 see an idle change when you disconnect your advance, and no you won檛 see it come on as your engine will not pull enough vacuum to pull the advance until it is under load. If you think that your advance is not working you can do the old mouth test, pull the cap and suck on the hose (or connect it to a vacuum source) the advance should move.When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
check that vac. line and filter, it sounds plugged.
If you follow the route of the vacuum advance line you will find it's plugged into the carburetor somewhere ABOVE the throttle plates. When the motor idles there's no vacuum above the plates. This is completely normal. To prove the advance mechanism is working plug it to a vacuum location below the throttle blades and place a finger beneath the vacuum canister rod that attaches to the breaker plate. Have someone start the motor. You should feel the rod pull toward you. You could also hook up a length of hose and connect it to the vacuum advance canister. Place it in your mouth and create vacuum. The canister rod will move if it's working properly.
The source location of vacuum for the vacuum advance canister was chanced in the late sixties for emissions purposes. Between you, I and the fence post your motor will run sharper if you leave the vacuum advance line plugged into a source below the throttle plates. You will find that the motor will sound less labored at idol and will pick up some RPM's. You may need to set the idol back down a bit. The motor will run better at light throttle. You may squeeze a little better fuel economy out of it.
Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
I'm looking for some direction on how I should be approaching a career change into the wine business. I need to earn a respectable living and do something stimulating. So, working in a tasting room at a winery seems to be out due to not enough income and dealing with the same 5-10 wines EVERY day. I'd ideally like to work for a distributor/importer or become a sommelier/assistant sommelier, but from my research, both of these positions require a few years of experience at a minimum. Does anyone know if I have any PRAYER of landing one of these types of jobs right off the bat with no experience? And if so, what do I have to do to land one? Any and all advice is welcomed!Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
To become an actual sommelier you have to do quite a bit of schooling and even then many starting out make less money than servers. Depending on where you live, your best bet is to work for one of the big distrubutors (almost all of whom are evil and are destroying the industry) but again starting out will not be terribly glamorous. You will probably end up doing mostly the grocery stores, where you will essentially be a glorified delivery person (must be able to lift at least 40 lbs for most of these jobs). Just like anything else you have to work your way up.Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
Its call being a waiter
best thing to do is just like get a book on wines and why they are reds whites etc etc then when you go in for a job opprtunity you will look as sound as though you have been doing it for years and you would have a better chance. Employers are more interested in people with experience becasue they want their money that their paying you to be well spent and if you can show them that it is worth it then you will be more likely to be hired. Dont be excited that if you do this you will get the job you want right away but they will notice you and you will move up the ranks faster and develop a better relationship with them.
Drink your share and sell the rest
How would you convince me to travel to my nearest winery 30 miles away?
How would get the young adults to want to gather for social contact.
check out your university cities
Gathering places have food.
If you have no experience your best bet would be to work on the distributor end until you have increased your wine knowledge.
Most distributors have great wine classes.
Don't forget about large wine shops and liquor stores.
You could express your desire to learn more and grow with their company.
Remember most wine shops and work on commission.
The main reason I push you this way, is to be a Sommelier you need experience serving and that could be a long time before you start making good money.apply parental controls website host
To become an actual sommelier you have to do quite a bit of schooling and even then many starting out make less money than servers. Depending on where you live, your best bet is to work for one of the big distrubutors (almost all of whom are evil and are destroying the industry) but again starting out will not be terribly glamorous. You will probably end up doing mostly the grocery stores, where you will essentially be a glorified delivery person (must be able to lift at least 40 lbs for most of these jobs). Just like anything else you have to work your way up.Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
Its call being a waiter
best thing to do is just like get a book on wines and why they are reds whites etc etc then when you go in for a job opprtunity you will look as sound as though you have been doing it for years and you would have a better chance. Employers are more interested in people with experience becasue they want their money that their paying you to be well spent and if you can show them that it is worth it then you will be more likely to be hired. Dont be excited that if you do this you will get the job you want right away but they will notice you and you will move up the ranks faster and develop a better relationship with them.
Drink your share and sell the rest
How would you convince me to travel to my nearest winery 30 miles away?
How would get the young adults to want to gather for social contact.
check out your university cities
Gathering places have food.
If you have no experience your best bet would be to work on the distributor end until you have increased your wine knowledge.
Most distributors have great wine classes.
Don't forget about large wine shops and liquor stores.
You could express your desire to learn more and grow with their company.
Remember most wine shops and work on commission.
The main reason I push you this way, is to be a Sommelier you need experience serving and that could be a long time before you start making good money.
94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
After we have changed the above, now it will not even start!! It did start fine, and idled well. I bought it used, and it doesnt have an engine computer in it. How do i check the 4 sensors? What other ideas do you have?? A Nissan mechanic suggested changing a coil in the distributor,, we did, to the tune of $100+, then it wouldn't even start! The more we work on the worse it is getting. Help, please94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
If your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
check compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.
If your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
check compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.
What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
We rent, have no retirement or investments, hubby is a salesman for a local beer distributor, we have a checking and modest savings account through a credit union. I have one low limit credit card. How will this mess affect us? Are we looking at a serious change in lifestyle? Hubby feels his job is very secure because he's the best at what he does but everyone seems to be panicking and I am clueless about this stuff. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
Since you have no retirement plan or investments, you'll probably only be affected through the employment end of things. For instance, some companies run on credit, and may fold if the credit situation doesn't improve. I doubt that the beer business is in that category, so all-in-all you're fairly bulletproof. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
It may not hurt you at all. I like the old saying, the difference between a recession and a depression; a recession is when you know someone who lost thier job, a depression is when you lose your job.
The stock market is going to hurt people who work for banks, financial institutions, publicly traded companies, companies that require a lot of financing. If enough people lose thier jobs, it will push things to get worse, more forclosures, more bank failures, more job losses...
It gets me into thinking that I should close my back account and stuff my fortune somewhere in my house. The days of tribulation have finally come. Not religious here and not saying that the Bible (or any other holy books) is correct...but I can say that something bad is going to happen if we don't solve this big problem.
Sounds like you and hubby are safe. All Americans should buy stock in toilet paper companies 'cause there's a lot of people crappin' themselves right now as well on crappin' on each other.
Since you have no retirement plan or investments, you'll probably only be affected through the employment end of things. For instance, some companies run on credit, and may fold if the credit situation doesn't improve. I doubt that the beer business is in that category, so all-in-all you're fairly bulletproof. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
It may not hurt you at all. I like the old saying, the difference between a recession and a depression; a recession is when you know someone who lost thier job, a depression is when you lose your job.
The stock market is going to hurt people who work for banks, financial institutions, publicly traded companies, companies that require a lot of financing. If enough people lose thier jobs, it will push things to get worse, more forclosures, more bank failures, more job losses...
It gets me into thinking that I should close my back account and stuff my fortune somewhere in my house. The days of tribulation have finally come. Not religious here and not saying that the Bible (or any other holy books) is correct...but I can say that something bad is going to happen if we don't solve this big problem.
Sounds like you and hubby are safe. All Americans should buy stock in toilet paper companies 'cause there's a lot of people crappin' themselves right now as well on crappin' on each other.
Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I am seriously considering becoming a Slumber Parties distributor in the MD area. However, before I jump into a (part-time) career change, I would like some honest feedback from people that are currently distributors or have been in the past.
Here are some questions that I have:
1. What is this company like to work with?
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';?
3. How does the pay scale work?
4. How do I get started?
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website?
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties!
Thanks, Everyone, in advance!Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I could probably type pages and pages on how great it is to be a slumber parties distributor but I will take the short cut and reply Directly question by question with short answers
1. What is this company like to work with? I love it, just love it. I can’t say anything bad about it. Love the products, love the free training, the support, etc.
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';? Just like any other business, you have to work it. Start with friends and relatives and slowly grow your contact list. I never do “cold calls”, it’s more like giving out my business card every time I can.
3. How does the pay scale work? You truly are your own business manager. You buy products at a discount price and sell. The more you sell….
4. How do I get started? We have starter kits and your “up lines” are right behind you on every step. All you need is time and dedication just like any other job, the difference is that this one is fun and you are in charge of your own raise!
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website? Nope, no fees, just need to stay in a minimum of $ sales for 2 consecutive month ( and that amount is just ridiculously low, you can make it in one slow party!
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties! Again, don’t expect easy money but it is fun and you can truly go at our own speed. From seven parties a week to one party a month. The more time you can spend on your business, the higher the income.
Let me know if you need any more in depth responses, you can check my site for more info. www.slumberpartiesbysheila.comBecoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
Hello!
I was actually a Slumber Parties Distributor on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and I have a different experience from the one before mine.
1. they do NOT care about their Representatives when you need support or assistance. I achieved the level to receive a free love swing when you have a qualifying order b/c their website was not working. I took the initiative to contact the corporate offices at no avail until only after the qualifying date. I than sent an e-mail with all the previous correspondances and that b/c this was their mistake they should stand behind it. I was told they were not going to make any exceptions.
2. The party schedule is what you want it to be. If you can actually people to feel comfortable enough to have a party it can be demanding but a lot of people are afraid to go through with it. You will have a good amount of cancellations.
3. You pay yourself based on what you sell... the pay scale is reasonable
4. You need to pay $250 for a starter kit and no that will not cover everything you will need.. you will undoubtedly be paying out of pocket for many more products to have on display.
5. see above + shipping!!
6. I work with Avon now and I love it... only $10 to get started and NO product inventory and no fear of approaching people because you will get funny looks! It beats paying $250 for a kit with no support. At least Avon has a District Sales Manager right in your back yard to support you!
Either way god luck, I just though it important to share this with you b/c I had a BAD experience and no one willing to help me. I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into before you pay all that money.
I actually sell pampered chef.... but here's my answers to YOUR question. Sort of.
Everybody needs something.
Most of these businesses like this require work.
If you work hard, you make money, and you have to sell so much every so many months to stay active.
I LOVE the slumber party stuff (I'm hosting a party saturday for a friend.)
If you enjoy it, go for it.
And if it doesn't end up working out... you still got a lot of fun stuff at discount price.
But I bet you'll do great if you work at it.
(and talk to the person who answered above me, she probably had TONS of tips that you'll need.)
Here are some questions that I have:
1. What is this company like to work with?
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';?
3. How does the pay scale work?
4. How do I get started?
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website?
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties!
Thanks, Everyone, in advance!Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I could probably type pages and pages on how great it is to be a slumber parties distributor but I will take the short cut and reply Directly question by question with short answers
1. What is this company like to work with? I love it, just love it. I can’t say anything bad about it. Love the products, love the free training, the support, etc.
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';? Just like any other business, you have to work it. Start with friends and relatives and slowly grow your contact list. I never do “cold calls”, it’s more like giving out my business card every time I can.
3. How does the pay scale work? You truly are your own business manager. You buy products at a discount price and sell. The more you sell….
4. How do I get started? We have starter kits and your “up lines” are right behind you on every step. All you need is time and dedication just like any other job, the difference is that this one is fun and you are in charge of your own raise!
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website? Nope, no fees, just need to stay in a minimum of $ sales for 2 consecutive month ( and that amount is just ridiculously low, you can make it in one slow party!
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties! Again, don’t expect easy money but it is fun and you can truly go at our own speed. From seven parties a week to one party a month. The more time you can spend on your business, the higher the income.
Let me know if you need any more in depth responses, you can check my site for more info. www.slumberpartiesbysheila.comBecoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
Hello!
I was actually a Slumber Parties Distributor on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and I have a different experience from the one before mine.
1. they do NOT care about their Representatives when you need support or assistance. I achieved the level to receive a free love swing when you have a qualifying order b/c their website was not working. I took the initiative to contact the corporate offices at no avail until only after the qualifying date. I than sent an e-mail with all the previous correspondances and that b/c this was their mistake they should stand behind it. I was told they were not going to make any exceptions.
2. The party schedule is what you want it to be. If you can actually people to feel comfortable enough to have a party it can be demanding but a lot of people are afraid to go through with it. You will have a good amount of cancellations.
3. You pay yourself based on what you sell... the pay scale is reasonable
4. You need to pay $250 for a starter kit and no that will not cover everything you will need.. you will undoubtedly be paying out of pocket for many more products to have on display.
5. see above + shipping!!
6. I work with Avon now and I love it... only $10 to get started and NO product inventory and no fear of approaching people because you will get funny looks! It beats paying $250 for a kit with no support. At least Avon has a District Sales Manager right in your back yard to support you!
Either way god luck, I just though it important to share this with you b/c I had a BAD experience and no one willing to help me. I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into before you pay all that money.
I actually sell pampered chef.... but here's my answers to YOUR question. Sort of.
Everybody needs something.
Most of these businesses like this require work.
If you work hard, you make money, and you have to sell so much every so many months to stay active.
I LOVE the slumber party stuff (I'm hosting a party saturday for a friend.)
If you enjoy it, go for it.
And if it doesn't end up working out... you still got a lot of fun stuff at discount price.
But I bet you'll do great if you work at it.
(and talk to the person who answered above me, she probably had TONS of tips that you'll need.)
I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Please look at our website, www.2headsarebetterthanone.com You begin in the middle of a sentence and not the way the text was written on our site: Dual head shower head, two-2 head showerhead replacement, double shower head by DSA (manufacturer-distributor).
How do we get this problem changed to the way we want our text posted?I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Head over to the Web/html design tutorial section at http://webdesign.about.com/
Jennifer covers all subjects of Web design and html markup and the other things to make your Web page do what you want. You can even post for a critique in the forums.
Her current lead article is:
';Do you write good? ;-)
';Writing well for the Web takes more than just a spell-checker and basic language skills. Web writing is a different format than writing for other media. These ten tips will help you create Web pages that are well-written and easy for your customers to follow.
'; * 10 Tips for Good Web Writing';I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
I'm sorry to say, but what an awful site! It's ugly for one thing, and it's markup even worse...
Start by fixing those 39 errors found in the W3C Validator... It might help. Maybe not on this perticulair problem, but in general.
How do we get this problem changed to the way we want our text posted?I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Head over to the Web/html design tutorial section at http://webdesign.about.com/
Jennifer covers all subjects of Web design and html markup and the other things to make your Web page do what you want. You can even post for a critique in the forums.
Her current lead article is:
';Do you write good? ;-)
';Writing well for the Web takes more than just a spell-checker and basic language skills. Web writing is a different format than writing for other media. These ten tips will help you create Web pages that are well-written and easy for your customers to follow.
'; * 10 Tips for Good Web Writing';I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
I'm sorry to say, but what an awful site! It's ugly for one thing, and it's markup even worse...
Start by fixing those 39 errors found in the W3C Validator... It might help. Maybe not on this perticulair problem, but in general.
From how many places engine oil can leak?
I have a Daihatsu Charade (aka. Subaru Justy), engine oil is leaking from many places, and I guess I need to change a lot of gaskets and O rings. I know there is a distributor O ring and I can replace that, and I know about valve (or rocker) cover gasket, I'll buy that one as well, crankshaft is not leaking, but engine is almost covered in oil and there are always drops of oil at my parking slot.
Which other seals can be possibly leaking?From how many places engine oil can leak?
Oil pump gasket or seal,camshaft seal,oil pan gasket,oil pressure switch.Put a small dose of engine oil leak detection dye in to engine oil,use the car for a few days then use a UV light to pinpoint where the leak is.From how many places engine oil can leak?
If you see oil on top, change the rocker cover gaskets.
If the oil is on the bottom, change the oil pan gasket.
You might try tightening the transmission screws also.
Then wash the engine, and see it the location of the leak is more obvious.
You should wash his engine using liquid cleaners to ensure a source of the leaks, if the leak came from above the oil will flow down so contaminate the entire machine, and after his engine cleaner it will be easier to determine the source of the leaks.
rear main seals, cam shaft seals, oil filter o-ring, oil cooler (if equipped), head gasket, oil pan.
any where there is a oil gasket 100 of places start with valve cover which is on top oil runs down hillsome advice about a friend How to fix bleach accident on comforter
Which other seals can be possibly leaking?From how many places engine oil can leak?
Oil pump gasket or seal,camshaft seal,oil pan gasket,oil pressure switch.Put a small dose of engine oil leak detection dye in to engine oil,use the car for a few days then use a UV light to pinpoint where the leak is.From how many places engine oil can leak?
If you see oil on top, change the rocker cover gaskets.
If the oil is on the bottom, change the oil pan gasket.
You might try tightening the transmission screws also.
Then wash the engine, and see it the location of the leak is more obvious.
You should wash his engine using liquid cleaners to ensure a source of the leaks, if the leak came from above the oil will flow down so contaminate the entire machine, and after his engine cleaner it will be easier to determine the source of the leaks.
rear main seals, cam shaft seals, oil filter o-ring, oil cooler (if equipped), head gasket, oil pan.
any where there is a oil gasket 100 of places start with valve cover which is on top oil runs down hill
96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
I was sitting in a parking lot with my car running and noticed some steam from under the hood. I looked at the temp gauge and saw it was at 3/4. So, I popped the hood and saw that the fan was not on even though the temp gauge was 3/4 and I could see that the steam was coming from a very small hairline crack on the very top of the radiator near the cap that was causing the steam. I shut the car off and let it cool down. On the way home, the temp gauge fluxuated up and down but never passed 3/4. At home, I used some radiator putty (for plastic radiators like mine) to seal up the crack and filled the antifreeze back up. The next day I started the car up and test drove it to the store. It drove normal and the temp gauge stayed at the normal 1/3 level but I saw that the putty stopped the steam from spewing out but it was still leaking very slightly from there. Once home I just parked it and checked the antifreeze level again which was slightly lower but nothing major. This brings me to today, which now when I try to start the car it cranks but won't turn over. It seems so colse to turning over but won't. The battery is fully charged and I don't see any white colored gunk in the oil which I've been told leans towards head gasket/warped heads. I also sprayed starter fluid but still no help. The wires %26amp; plugs were changed a few months ago and the fuel pump ';clicks'; when I turn the key to the on position. What else could it be besides the things already mentioned and possibly the main relay or distributor. What could have changed from yesterday that now it won't start and what step should I take now? How do I check for spark or compression since fuel doesn't seem to be the problem?96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
ok, if there is an air pocket around the cpu coolant temperature sensor, then the computer does not see just how hot the engine is. and since the cpu is what controls the fans, that could be the reason that your car was running so warm(hot). in order to check the compression, you pull all of the plugs out and thread in pressure tester. crank the engine over about 5 pulses. then take a reading. and record it. all of the cylinders should be with in 10 % of each other. i do not have a book in front of me but i know that on my honda book spec minimum is 143 psi on a 1990 civic with a 1.5 liter engine. as i see it your engine should just have 2 more cylinders. while you have a plug wire loose, leave it hanging close to a part of the frame or body of the car, and have a friend crank it over so that you can look for a spark. if you do not see a blue streak, move it a little closer and try again. i will warn you dont get your fingers or any thing else too close to that spark, it bites96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
Have you checked your fuses? I would if I were you that is where a lot of problems seem to be.
I don't see anything in your adventure that should cause the starting problem. I agree about the fuel - starting fluid didn't fire it up so fuel delivery is at the bottom of the list.
Your '96 is in the range of troublesome ignition switches, so verify the warning lights come on when the ignition is in the ';run'; position. If that is okay, time to check for spark. The procedure in the first source is a good one. Look at the warning at the top of the second source - Honda ignitions handle lots of energy and it will eat your coil up if you let it. If you get spark continue with the second source, if not the prime suspect based on failure rate is the igniter (third source).
ok, if there is an air pocket around the cpu coolant temperature sensor, then the computer does not see just how hot the engine is. and since the cpu is what controls the fans, that could be the reason that your car was running so warm(hot). in order to check the compression, you pull all of the plugs out and thread in pressure tester. crank the engine over about 5 pulses. then take a reading. and record it. all of the cylinders should be with in 10 % of each other. i do not have a book in front of me but i know that on my honda book spec minimum is 143 psi on a 1990 civic with a 1.5 liter engine. as i see it your engine should just have 2 more cylinders. while you have a plug wire loose, leave it hanging close to a part of the frame or body of the car, and have a friend crank it over so that you can look for a spark. if you do not see a blue streak, move it a little closer and try again. i will warn you dont get your fingers or any thing else too close to that spark, it bites96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
Have you checked your fuses? I would if I were you that is where a lot of problems seem to be.
I don't see anything in your adventure that should cause the starting problem. I agree about the fuel - starting fluid didn't fire it up so fuel delivery is at the bottom of the list.
Your '96 is in the range of troublesome ignition switches, so verify the warning lights come on when the ignition is in the ';run'; position. If that is okay, time to check for spark. The procedure in the first source is a good one. Look at the warning at the top of the second source - Honda ignitions handle lots of energy and it will eat your coil up if you let it. If you get spark continue with the second source, if not the prime suspect based on failure rate is the igniter (third source).
I need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
i just bought a 97 3.1 monte carlo, the previous owner told me dat the car would start up then run but dies when you drive for a while. he changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump is good,but someone changed the plugs,wires,and distributor. what is the right firing order front/back. do i have to set the rotor cap,and howI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
Uh, the actual firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6. There should be a sticker under hood that shows proper wire routing to the 3 coilsI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
The firing order goes 1-6-4-3-5-2 im pretty sure im not too familiar with v 6's
the guy below me is right i forgot that these would have coils sorry
Uh, the actual firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6. There should be a sticker under hood that shows proper wire routing to the 3 coilsI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
The firing order goes 1-6-4-3-5-2 im pretty sure im not too familiar with v 6's
the guy below me is right i forgot that these would have coils sorry
Distributor cap and rotor?
If im changing the distruibtor cap and rotor, is ther a specific way i need to adjust the rotor? how should it be put on?
i put the rotor on and distributor cap and the firing sequence is correct but it wont start...and it did before i change itDistributor cap and rotor?
the rotor will only go on one way and the distriburator cap will only go on in one position so the clamps that hold it on will fasten so I would say you have the wires messed up, you will have to find out the firing order of your engine and get the wires in sequence.Distributor cap and rotor?
Most rotors only go on one way .. they can only go on the same way it came off ... So unless you put the wires back on in a different order which can easily happen.... i would make real sure that your wirering order is correct .... Look in a haynes manual or a chiltons and make sure you have it right... Also turn your rotor over , you should see a slot cut out then look on the shaft you should see the same in reverse... good luck
Rotor only goes on 1 way! What does it do when you try to start it? Pop, spit, or crank normally?
i put the rotor on and distributor cap and the firing sequence is correct but it wont start...and it did before i change itDistributor cap and rotor?
the rotor will only go on one way and the distriburator cap will only go on in one position so the clamps that hold it on will fasten so I would say you have the wires messed up, you will have to find out the firing order of your engine and get the wires in sequence.Distributor cap and rotor?
Most rotors only go on one way .. they can only go on the same way it came off ... So unless you put the wires back on in a different order which can easily happen.... i would make real sure that your wirering order is correct .... Look in a haynes manual or a chiltons and make sure you have it right... Also turn your rotor over , you should see a slot cut out then look on the shaft you should see the same in reverse... good luck
Rotor only goes on 1 way! What does it do when you try to start it? Pop, spit, or crank normally?
How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
Recently overhauled carburetor, changed jet sizes to 95 %26amp; 110, installed new distributor cap, condenser %26amp; high tension wires and still my fuel consumption is around 6-7km/liter. Also noticed strong smell of gasoline from exhaust pipe which leads me to believe that fuel isn't burning properly which causes high consumption. How do i fix this?How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
I don't know about the ';jetting'; stuff.. but try checking the timing,compression of the cylinders, air cleaner filter and muffler restriction. Keep tire pressures at recommended specs. Good luck!How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
Get a new one and get 39MPG.
I don't know about the ';jetting'; stuff.. but try checking the timing,compression of the cylinders, air cleaner filter and muffler restriction. Keep tire pressures at recommended specs. Good luck!How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
Get a new one and get 39MPG.
88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
I have an 88 celica gt convertible...the car was running good but this morning as i was pulling into the drive way to wash it, it completely just shut off. When I tryed starting it all I here is a winding/whinning noise coming from the distributor. I took off one of the spark plug wires %26amp; put a screw driver to it then tryed turning it on %26amp; got NO spark. I took off the distributor cap %26amp; trying turning it manually but it wont turn. I am guessing its the distributor but maybe you car guys that know more than me can help me out.
PS..if the distributor is the problem how difficult is it to change? what are something i need to avoid doing so that i install it correctly and not mess up the timing. Please be specific in your response i know the bare minimum about cars. thanks.88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
it could be the timing belt check that
if its broke it will cause the dist not to turn88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
You broke the timing belt. Totally agree with the first poster. You may have got lucky too. Since you weren't driving at speed the pistons probably didn't bend the valves. $400 or so to fix the T-belt on a Toyota
It's amazing to me how many consumers know nothing about timing belts.
If you know bare minimum, take it to a shop. You won't be able to do a timing belt anyway. A distributor is easy and you could do it but it's more likely the timing belt.find cheap duvet covers brown hair
PS..if the distributor is the problem how difficult is it to change? what are something i need to avoid doing so that i install it correctly and not mess up the timing. Please be specific in your response i know the bare minimum about cars. thanks.88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
it could be the timing belt check that
if its broke it will cause the dist not to turn88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
You broke the timing belt. Totally agree with the first poster. You may have got lucky too. Since you weren't driving at speed the pistons probably didn't bend the valves. $400 or so to fix the T-belt on a Toyota
It's amazing to me how many consumers know nothing about timing belts.
If you know bare minimum, take it to a shop. You won't be able to do a timing belt anyway. A distributor is easy and you could do it but it's more likely the timing belt.
How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
89 S10 4.3 220k. My truck ran fine before I decided to powerwash the engine. After I washed it It wouldn't start. When I did get it started, it was misfiring badly and would backfire out of the intake. The plugs and wires I changed at the last oil change. I tried replacing the distributor cap, rotor and the pickup coil. I also had the Ignition module tested and it tested good. I tested the coil with an ohmmeter and it was good as well. Could a spark have jumped into the wiring harness and zapped my computer?How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.. you forced water into the plug wires with the pressure washer and it's cross firing between two cylinders.... plug wires are designed to keep water out at atmospheric pressure, not at 3200psiHow possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.
The ecu is not at fault. Don't power wash your engine. If you are lucky it will dry out after it runs for a while and warms up.
Not likely.......It's probably water somewhere in one of the connectors, you might want to carefully disconnect them one by one, and replace the dielectric grease
in them, you can also try clean, compressed air. I personally have
never heard this happening but I guess there's always a first if it is
the ECU....But being it's such an expensive item to replace, I would
try all other options first.
Good Luck to you..
the difference between the coil secondary and any other system in that car is just too much. even if the spark could wander to the computer it would lack the power to do any damage. allot of us agree that your problem is simply just wet ignition system. dry it out and retry.
No.. you forced water into the plug wires with the pressure washer and it's cross firing between two cylinders.... plug wires are designed to keep water out at atmospheric pressure, not at 3200psiHow possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.
The ecu is not at fault. Don't power wash your engine. If you are lucky it will dry out after it runs for a while and warms up.
Not likely.......It's probably water somewhere in one of the connectors, you might want to carefully disconnect them one by one, and replace the dielectric grease
in them, you can also try clean, compressed air. I personally have
never heard this happening but I guess there's always a first if it is
the ECU....But being it's such an expensive item to replace, I would
try all other options first.
Good Luck to you..
the difference between the coil secondary and any other system in that car is just too much. even if the spark could wander to the computer it would lack the power to do any damage. allot of us agree that your problem is simply just wet ignition system. dry it out and retry.
My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
This was my father's car. I recently took it off his hands and my buddy and I first went to start it and it wouldn't start. So we changed the battery, starter, cables and some wires. Then tried, it turned over but still didn't start. Then we replaced all the plugs, changed oil, coolant, new HEI distributor, alternator and a lil' minor stuff. It finally started. Awesome.
But, when I first got it, I changed the oil (sitting for a couple years), and it looks like good oil (meaning no water was added in). Then after we got it started and let it idle for a couple minutes, here came our problem. I was losing coolant and it has chocolate milk meaning that coolant got into the oil. I believe it's a head gasket that cracked. Probably both since it has been sitting over time. The car WAS NOT driven, so having it leak since we worked on the car, will it damage if we clean it out and change them? Car starts, but leaking. If we replaced the gaskets and cleaned the coolant, should it be all set??How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
Coolant may have been leaking into the crankcase and just sinking to the bottom of the oil pan before you started the engine. The oil won't turn to chocolate milk until it is mixes with the coolant-as in stirred. Get the contaminated oil out of the crankcase right away since glycol reacts with the tin and zinc in bearings even if the engine is not running. You might try pulling each spark plug and if you find one that is different color than the others or wet that can indicate which head gasket is leaking.
After you pull the heads and have checked head and intake manifold gaskets, have the heads checked to make sure they aren't warped and maybe magnifluxed for cracks if there are not any obvious signs of your leak. Sometimes a block crack is not so easy to find but also is not very common. If you repair the leak, and drain and flush the crankcase, your engine should be fine.How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
a bad head gasket could be the problem but an oil cooler or the transmission cooling in the raditer could be bad, try remoive the raditor and take it down and have it pressure tested, if it leaks then you have tranny fluid leaking into the radiator, if it's oil then most possibly if it runs smooth you have a leaking intake manifold gasket whech means replacing the intake gasket not the head gasket.
Car sitting for a LONG time. NOT good. Probably a head gasket OR a cracked cylinder head. Not good.
Now HERE is a piece of PROFESSIONAL and knowlegable advice. IF it is your intention to KEEP the car i would recommend STRAIGHT away to replace the motor with a fresh remanufactured engine. Not a REBUILT, NOT a Junk yard swap, NOT re-ringed engine, but a COMPLETELY remanufactured engine.
If your lucky it is either a head gasket or cracked cylinder head. BUT, if your luck runs as I seem to see it running, you may also have a cracked cylinder liner or block.
If so NO AMOUNT of repairs will help you. For this reason I reccomend a reman engine. You can get them complete (LONG BLOCK) for 800-1000 bucks. Money well spent.
Remember, you heard it here FIRST. Don't let me become an ';I TOLD you so';
1 yes replace all the gasket's
2 if oil is going into the coolant it could a oil seal or a lifter problem
3 you will have too flush the system out to get rid of all the oil
4 if there oil in the coolant there could coolant in the oil
5 don't' start it until you are sure
replace the gaskets. clean and drain the radiator and replace the coolant. does the engine knock or make any noise at all? you said the car sat up for 2 yrs . was it not driven at all during this time?
But, when I first got it, I changed the oil (sitting for a couple years), and it looks like good oil (meaning no water was added in). Then after we got it started and let it idle for a couple minutes, here came our problem. I was losing coolant and it has chocolate milk meaning that coolant got into the oil. I believe it's a head gasket that cracked. Probably both since it has been sitting over time. The car WAS NOT driven, so having it leak since we worked on the car, will it damage if we clean it out and change them? Car starts, but leaking. If we replaced the gaskets and cleaned the coolant, should it be all set??How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
Coolant may have been leaking into the crankcase and just sinking to the bottom of the oil pan before you started the engine. The oil won't turn to chocolate milk until it is mixes with the coolant-as in stirred. Get the contaminated oil out of the crankcase right away since glycol reacts with the tin and zinc in bearings even if the engine is not running. You might try pulling each spark plug and if you find one that is different color than the others or wet that can indicate which head gasket is leaking.
After you pull the heads and have checked head and intake manifold gaskets, have the heads checked to make sure they aren't warped and maybe magnifluxed for cracks if there are not any obvious signs of your leak. Sometimes a block crack is not so easy to find but also is not very common. If you repair the leak, and drain and flush the crankcase, your engine should be fine.How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
a bad head gasket could be the problem but an oil cooler or the transmission cooling in the raditer could be bad, try remoive the raditor and take it down and have it pressure tested, if it leaks then you have tranny fluid leaking into the radiator, if it's oil then most possibly if it runs smooth you have a leaking intake manifold gasket whech means replacing the intake gasket not the head gasket.
Car sitting for a LONG time. NOT good. Probably a head gasket OR a cracked cylinder head. Not good.
Now HERE is a piece of PROFESSIONAL and knowlegable advice. IF it is your intention to KEEP the car i would recommend STRAIGHT away to replace the motor with a fresh remanufactured engine. Not a REBUILT, NOT a Junk yard swap, NOT re-ringed engine, but a COMPLETELY remanufactured engine.
If your lucky it is either a head gasket or cracked cylinder head. BUT, if your luck runs as I seem to see it running, you may also have a cracked cylinder liner or block.
If so NO AMOUNT of repairs will help you. For this reason I reccomend a reman engine. You can get them complete (LONG BLOCK) for 800-1000 bucks. Money well spent.
Remember, you heard it here FIRST. Don't let me become an ';I TOLD you so';
1 yes replace all the gasket's
2 if oil is going into the coolant it could a oil seal or a lifter problem
3 you will have too flush the system out to get rid of all the oil
4 if there oil in the coolant there could coolant in the oil
5 don't' start it until you are sure
replace the gaskets. clean and drain the radiator and replace the coolant. does the engine knock or make any noise at all? you said the car sat up for 2 yrs . was it not driven at all during this time?
I'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
I need wiring instructions for the new High Energy Ignition distributor. I am installing it into a 1969 Chevy C/10 pickup truck with a 350 Eng. Is there anything i should know about the wiring and my spark plug gap was .035 will i be changing the gap to .040 or .060 and do I need to run my 12 volt power wire through a ballast resistor before I connect it to the distributorI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
SIMPLEST option-------%26gt;
use a test light and locate a fuse in the fuse block that is ';Hot'; only when the key is in the ';Run'; and ';Start'; positions. It should not be ';Hot'; in the ';Acc'; position. There used to be two connectors on the old fuse blocks that would work this way.
Run a # 12 wire from the terminal (';Hot'; side of the fuse, not the fused side) to the ';+'; terminal of the HEI dist.
This distributor requires full battery and charging voltage. Use NO resistor.
When the HEI first came out in the early '70s, the plug gap was recommended from .045'; all the way to .80';, and there were fouling issues. G.M. came out with a TSB to run the plugs at .035';, and ultimately recommended .045'; for most applications.
Good LuckI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
try 45 on the gap and see how it works and no don't use a resistor thats only for points.
If you had an external module cut the power wire for it (It should be the biggest one) and use that to power the dizzy. If you have a tach use the NEG wire from your coil and connect it to the TACH terminal of the HEI.
Other wise any 12V when the key to ON wire will do.
there should be red and yellow-or red and brown wires goin to your points style seperate coil-on the hei cap it should be marked with 2-3 wire inputs plus your plug that goes from your cap to your distributer-really all you need is the red power wire to go where it says 12v+-dont plug anything into the place marked tach-thats for a tachometer-not another power source-if it has a placed mark ground or 12v- thats where you hook the yellow or brown wire-but most are self grounded and just have a tach and 12v+ input-hope this helps ya-also just have autozone look up the gap on like a 85 chevy truck-these have hei and will give you the proper gap-i think when i changed mine it went up to 43 or 45 gap
SIMPLEST option-------%26gt;
use a test light and locate a fuse in the fuse block that is ';Hot'; only when the key is in the ';Run'; and ';Start'; positions. It should not be ';Hot'; in the ';Acc'; position. There used to be two connectors on the old fuse blocks that would work this way.
Run a # 12 wire from the terminal (';Hot'; side of the fuse, not the fused side) to the ';+'; terminal of the HEI dist.
This distributor requires full battery and charging voltage. Use NO resistor.
When the HEI first came out in the early '70s, the plug gap was recommended from .045'; all the way to .80';, and there were fouling issues. G.M. came out with a TSB to run the plugs at .035';, and ultimately recommended .045'; for most applications.
Good LuckI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
try 45 on the gap and see how it works and no don't use a resistor thats only for points.
If you had an external module cut the power wire for it (It should be the biggest one) and use that to power the dizzy. If you have a tach use the NEG wire from your coil and connect it to the TACH terminal of the HEI.
Other wise any 12V when the key to ON wire will do.
there should be red and yellow-or red and brown wires goin to your points style seperate coil-on the hei cap it should be marked with 2-3 wire inputs plus your plug that goes from your cap to your distributer-really all you need is the red power wire to go where it says 12v+-dont plug anything into the place marked tach-thats for a tachometer-not another power source-if it has a placed mark ground or 12v- thats where you hook the yellow or brown wire-but most are self grounded and just have a tach and 12v+ input-hope this helps ya-also just have autozone look up the gap on like a 85 chevy truck-these have hei and will give you the proper gap-i think when i changed mine it went up to 43 or 45 gap
Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
I have been having some rough idling and choppy acceleration. I did that test where you spray water on the wires at night and see if there is a spark. There was a tiny spark, barely noticeable, on one of them, so I decided Im just going to change them all, even though there isnt any noticable corrosion on the rubber. (Also, a little bit of water got under the distributor cap, and there were lots of little sparks dancing around in there... I know... Im not supposed to get water in there, but I ****** up. does that mean I have a distributor problem? I just replaced a failing distributor with a used one.)
Anyway, should I change my spark plugs when I change my wires? I dont know the last time they were changed.
Also, how do I know what size spark plugs/spark plug wires to buy? Are they pretty universal?Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
It doesn't sound like you have a distributor coil problem. Just dry up all your components from all the water and moisture you've sprayed.
http://www.hondacivicrepairs.com/idle-ai
If you appear to be getting spark on all 4 spark plugs (remove your sparkplug with the cable and tap it against the engine block while cranking about 8 times), inspect your Idle Air Control valve instead.
Look inside the screen and see if you have carbon build-up clogging air from entering your engine while on idle. If you do see carbon build-up, use carburetor cleaner spray to get the gunk off the screen. Also, clean or replace your Air Filter.
If this doesn't help, you may want to continue with replacing your distributor rotor, distributor cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs.
When you visit your local auto parts store, they will ask you the year, model, make of your car and will give you a list of available parts compatible with your vehicle. I use the cheapest which works just fine for my Civic 95. You can also read the recommended spark plug by Honda in your manual or on the label against your upper timing belt cover.
Good luck!Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
Since new plugs will cost next to nothing, and you can eliminate them as a problem, you may as well. You can go for the platinum+4's, which I've had good luck with, splitfire's also, or go for the cheapies if you want to save around $10. Also, you can make sure they're gapped perfectly with most plugs. The gap tool is available at the parts counter for about $2. They can also hook you up with the correct plugs and gap size for your car.
don't know how good you are at work on these cars, but a distributor on this car sucks if you drop the rubber gasket into the engine....might want to let a professional do that.
but plugs and wires should do the job. engine backpressure is usually a problem for acceleration as well....might want to check your catalytic converter.
take the plugs out and see how they are burning. if they still look good the regage them and put them back in. the man at the parts store can tell you what you need.blonde hair cat
Anyway, should I change my spark plugs when I change my wires? I dont know the last time they were changed.
Also, how do I know what size spark plugs/spark plug wires to buy? Are they pretty universal?Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
It doesn't sound like you have a distributor coil problem. Just dry up all your components from all the water and moisture you've sprayed.
http://www.hondacivicrepairs.com/idle-ai
If you appear to be getting spark on all 4 spark plugs (remove your sparkplug with the cable and tap it against the engine block while cranking about 8 times), inspect your Idle Air Control valve instead.
Look inside the screen and see if you have carbon build-up clogging air from entering your engine while on idle. If you do see carbon build-up, use carburetor cleaner spray to get the gunk off the screen. Also, clean or replace your Air Filter.
If this doesn't help, you may want to continue with replacing your distributor rotor, distributor cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs.
When you visit your local auto parts store, they will ask you the year, model, make of your car and will give you a list of available parts compatible with your vehicle. I use the cheapest which works just fine for my Civic 95. You can also read the recommended spark plug by Honda in your manual or on the label against your upper timing belt cover.
Good luck!Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
Since new plugs will cost next to nothing, and you can eliminate them as a problem, you may as well. You can go for the platinum+4's, which I've had good luck with, splitfire's also, or go for the cheapies if you want to save around $10. Also, you can make sure they're gapped perfectly with most plugs. The gap tool is available at the parts counter for about $2. They can also hook you up with the correct plugs and gap size for your car.
don't know how good you are at work on these cars, but a distributor on this car sucks if you drop the rubber gasket into the engine....might want to let a professional do that.
but plugs and wires should do the job. engine backpressure is usually a problem for acceleration as well....might want to check your catalytic converter.
take the plugs out and see how they are burning. if they still look good the regage them and put them back in. the man at the parts store can tell you what you need.
I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?
I have a 1984 Chrysler Fifth ave, I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor last night and now the timing is offI need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?
When you spend that much money to get you're car running better you should add about $20 dollars and buy an auto repair manual for that make and model. You'll find them at the parts store and they're invaluable. They will give you the firing order, the spark plug numbering sequence, the location of the number one wire on the distributor cap and all the other little details you need to hook everything up correctly and get the car running properly. I've been working on cars for 50+ years. Everything from tuneups to complete restorations and I wouldn't touch one without the manual. Good Luck.I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?
you crossed the wires you meatball.. lol
what engine? 6 cyl or 8 cyl?
and.. i suggest you go to the local parts store and buy a book for maintenance repairs.
never do something you are not qualified for. now your 50 dollar tune up is going to cost you 300.00. and if you would have brought it to a qualified mechanic, it would have only been 150.00
lol
your firing order should be in the casting of the intake manifold. #1 cylinder is drivers side front plug.
When you spend that much money to get you're car running better you should add about $20 dollars and buy an auto repair manual for that make and model. You'll find them at the parts store and they're invaluable. They will give you the firing order, the spark plug numbering sequence, the location of the number one wire on the distributor cap and all the other little details you need to hook everything up correctly and get the car running properly. I've been working on cars for 50+ years. Everything from tuneups to complete restorations and I wouldn't touch one without the manual. Good Luck.I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?
you crossed the wires you meatball.. lol
what engine? 6 cyl or 8 cyl?
and.. i suggest you go to the local parts store and buy a book for maintenance repairs.
never do something you are not qualified for. now your 50 dollar tune up is going to cost you 300.00. and if you would have brought it to a qualified mechanic, it would have only been 150.00
lol
your firing order should be in the casting of the intake manifold. #1 cylinder is drivers side front plug.
Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
i have a 91 chevy c1500 tbi obd1 with a 305 bored to .60nds over 9.5:1 compression heads and a mild cam but i have heard a lot about how much more powerful and efficiant the coil on plug systems are compared to distributor ignition and i was wanting to check out how i might go about finding a kit to convert as far as i can see the only real problems i will have are the cps and ignition timing...i got to thinking and since i have have recently upped the amount of gas that is poured into each cylinder that maybe it would benefit me at higher rpms where distributors have a hard time keeping up to change to c.o.p or coil pack to get a little more umpff....i am not all that experienced in performance although i have been and still am a technitian.....would this be worth the time or do they make a better distributor that would benefit me just the same.....tell me what you think and if you know of any kits or whatever i would like to know and check them out for myselfDistributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
While the coil over plug set up would offer better top end performance, I have never seen a kit that offers this kind of conversion. you are looking at a completely different computer. It could be had with a 2nd computer to control the coil packs. but you are also looking at different cam and crank sensors to keep the packs firing correctly. Unless there is something to install inside the distributor to maintain timing. I don't know how you would mount the sensors. Going with an MSD ignition should resolve you top end performance and would be more cost effective then a coil over plug set up.Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
All you need is an HEI distributor and a MSD 6AL box. You could even get a fancy MSD distributor if you want. Leave the coil packs for the newer LS engines with fuel injection.
just buy a MSD or similar aftermarket ignition system....... they have them on the shelf at any parts store........the ones on the shelf are good to about 800 horses so u should b ok..........
While the coil over plug set up would offer better top end performance, I have never seen a kit that offers this kind of conversion. you are looking at a completely different computer. It could be had with a 2nd computer to control the coil packs. but you are also looking at different cam and crank sensors to keep the packs firing correctly. Unless there is something to install inside the distributor to maintain timing. I don't know how you would mount the sensors. Going with an MSD ignition should resolve you top end performance and would be more cost effective then a coil over plug set up.Distributor to coil on plug or coil pack ignition conversion?
All you need is an HEI distributor and a MSD 6AL box. You could even get a fancy MSD distributor if you want. Leave the coil packs for the newer LS engines with fuel injection.
just buy a MSD or similar aftermarket ignition system....... they have them on the shelf at any parts store........the ones on the shelf are good to about 800 horses so u should b ok..........
I've tried everthing I can think of and I'm about flat broke now... suggestions?
I have a 93 toyota celica 2.2liter engine. My car randomly started jerking really hard once I get into a gear and stay one speed it does it even worse when I put the cruise on... I thought I wasn't getting enough fuel to my engine so I changed my fule pump, then filter, and then injectors.... then I thought it wasn't firing right so I changed the plugs and wires..... could it be my distributor??? I know it's got a pretty nice oil leak happening obviously because I've replaced the coil twice... Help!!! If you think it is my distributor how do you change it? I have to do it myself.... like I said I'm broke from replacing all the other parts... )-; Anything you say at this point can only help. Thank you!I've tried everthing I can think of and I'm about flat broke now... suggestions?
hi wow, i have the same car 93 toyota celica 2.2 convertible 5speed. but anyway i had the same problem car was jerking and it died and then it could start up again and die 10 miles laters it was the fuel pump that went out on my car. well. about a month i was driving and then the car just died on me while i was driving took me a while to figure it out because i had all these new parts like fuel pump,fuel fiter,air fiter, new timing belt, spark plugs and wires. but finally i figure it out it was my distributor went out so that fix the problem could be ur dist. or ur engine control moduleI've tried everthing I can think of and I'm about flat broke now... suggestions?
Have you replaced the air filter?
A can of carburetor cleaner might help too.
===============================
Well, you should have thought abut his before going into random part swapping drills.
Now, you have to wait to get enough money to make a shop visit.
People, this is exactly what happens when you do not know what you are doing. This OP does not have any test equipment or tools to deal with this issue. Yet, he still wants to keep swapping parts.
Great.
hi wow, i have the same car 93 toyota celica 2.2 convertible 5speed. but anyway i had the same problem car was jerking and it died and then it could start up again and die 10 miles laters it was the fuel pump that went out on my car. well. about a month i was driving and then the car just died on me while i was driving took me a while to figure it out because i had all these new parts like fuel pump,fuel fiter,air fiter, new timing belt, spark plugs and wires. but finally i figure it out it was my distributor went out so that fix the problem could be ur dist. or ur engine control moduleI've tried everthing I can think of and I'm about flat broke now... suggestions?
Have you replaced the air filter?
A can of carburetor cleaner might help too.
===============================
Well, you should have thought abut his before going into random part swapping drills.
Now, you have to wait to get enough money to make a shop visit.
People, this is exactly what happens when you do not know what you are doing. This OP does not have any test equipment or tools to deal with this issue. Yet, he still wants to keep swapping parts.
Great.
How much would it cost me to replace spark plugs and distributor cap on a 1933 Nissan Altima?
I know doing it myself would be the cheapest route but I really don't feel like it. This friend of a friend says he will do it (parts and labor) for $120. This sounds kinda high being that spark plugs cost like 3 bucks each and I've read online that it doesn't take that long to change. I don't know about the distributor cap but basically I want to know if this guy is trying to pull a fast one on me just because I'm a girl.How much would it cost me to replace spark plugs and distributor cap on a 1933 Nissan Altima?
find a new friend that will do it for free..How much would it cost me to replace spark plugs and distributor cap on a 1933 Nissan Altima?
In the book ';The Time Machine '; by Orson Welles
1933????
Yeah he is parts are about $25 and labor should be under half an hour unless he is really slow and stupid. at $50 - $75 an hour that only comes out to $50 or $62.5 dollars which is still quite high. just go to a shop and ask them to do a tune up and mention that u want them to change the distributor cap also.
It depends on how hard the plugs are to get to. I know I have changed some plugs on some cars that I wouldnt take less than 120 bucks to do. If he is your friend he will do it for free plus parts. If you live in Louisville Kentucky bring it over and I will do it for 80 bucks. Seriously. rcecil@email.itt-tech.edu
find a new friend that will do it for free..How much would it cost me to replace spark plugs and distributor cap on a 1933 Nissan Altima?
In the book ';The Time Machine '; by Orson Welles
1933????
Yeah he is parts are about $25 and labor should be under half an hour unless he is really slow and stupid. at $50 - $75 an hour that only comes out to $50 or $62.5 dollars which is still quite high. just go to a shop and ask them to do a tune up and mention that u want them to change the distributor cap also.
It depends on how hard the plugs are to get to. I know I have changed some plugs on some cars that I wouldnt take less than 120 bucks to do. If he is your friend he will do it for free plus parts. If you live in Louisville Kentucky bring it over and I will do it for 80 bucks. Seriously. rcecil@email.itt-tech.edu
How do you wire a distributor block?
i may be adding another amp to my trunk and i already have 2 there both with power coming from the battery, i read about distributor blocks and was wondering how these are wired, i assume you put it in your trunk and have the cables coming off, but my main concern is the fuses, do i have to change or add any more fuses? the one at the battery?, another one between the block and each amp?
if this is a fairly easy/cost effective process i will be using this method. thanks in advanceHow do you wire a distributor block?
The dist. block is pretty easy and straight forward to use, all it does is shunt power from one cable and split it out to 2-4 cables and then the cables go to the various devices. If you have the cable from the battery and it is not run to a capacitor then this may present a problem because if you branch the wire too many times from the battery to other devices you insure an overdraw latency in the power dist. of current in the system.
So, wire from battery to capacitor, wires from capacitor to dist. blocks, wires from blocks to amps and so on.
Really easy stuff no hard parts there.fish one web hosting
if this is a fairly easy/cost effective process i will be using this method. thanks in advanceHow do you wire a distributor block?
The dist. block is pretty easy and straight forward to use, all it does is shunt power from one cable and split it out to 2-4 cables and then the cables go to the various devices. If you have the cable from the battery and it is not run to a capacitor then this may present a problem because if you branch the wire too many times from the battery to other devices you insure an overdraw latency in the power dist. of current in the system.
So, wire from battery to capacitor, wires from capacitor to dist. blocks, wires from blocks to amps and so on.
Really easy stuff no hard parts there.
Ford Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
Does anybody knows how to troubleshoot the distributor cap on a ford explorer? I changed the spark plugs and wires twice and my truck still rattles. Your help will be appreciated
Thank YouFord Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
No distributor cap on this one. When does the rattle happen? When first started cold for a second or two, or all of the time even at idle? Or only while accelerating? Could be detonation caused by carbon buildup, bad MAF, or if rattling all of the time, timing chain tensioners. More info please.Ford Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
try an octane booster... could be bad or low grade gas
Should be electronic ignition . . . no distributor ';cap.'; You may want to try an engine compression test. Also consider a fuel filter and air filter change.
I agree 100% with yugie...need more info... plus what KIND of engine? I figure it's a 4.0 but they had 2 4.0s in 1998, a OHV and a SOHC version.. The SOHC was known for having timing chain rattles espcially at 3,000 RPM and idle if I remember making you think ignition.
Thank YouFord Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
No distributor cap on this one. When does the rattle happen? When first started cold for a second or two, or all of the time even at idle? Or only while accelerating? Could be detonation caused by carbon buildup, bad MAF, or if rattling all of the time, timing chain tensioners. More info please.Ford Explorer '98 Distributor Cap?
try an octane booster... could be bad or low grade gas
Should be electronic ignition . . . no distributor ';cap.'; You may want to try an engine compression test. Also consider a fuel filter and air filter change.
I agree 100% with yugie...need more info... plus what KIND of engine? I figure it's a 4.0 but they had 2 4.0s in 1998, a OHV and a SOHC version.. The SOHC was known for having timing chain rattles espcially at 3,000 RPM and idle if I remember making you think ignition.
How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
I have a 1999 chevy malibu with 3.1 litre
I changed the head gasket now im ready to crank it up, I just dont know if i should have put it in TDC and check timing, I know i dont have to if i dont have a distributor, but how can I tell exactly?
It has spark plug wiresHow can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Simply look where the spark plugs go from the spark plugs! In your case the plug wires enter a common ignition coil with six terminals. You have what is known as a distributor-less engine. ';Slap the wires on the plugs and fire it up.
There's no cam to time because it's still in the block.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
99 malibu does not have a distributor, it has an electric ignition coil.
Open the hood and look at the top of the engine. If you see an air cleaner on top of a carburetor, then you have a distributor. If instead, you see a large metal looking device and no air cleaner on top, it has a fuel injection system.
Did you take a distributor off the car when you changed the head gasket?
I changed the head gasket now im ready to crank it up, I just dont know if i should have put it in TDC and check timing, I know i dont have to if i dont have a distributor, but how can I tell exactly?
It has spark plug wiresHow can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
Simply look where the spark plugs go from the spark plugs! In your case the plug wires enter a common ignition coil with six terminals. You have what is known as a distributor-less engine. ';Slap the wires on the plugs and fire it up.
There's no cam to time because it's still in the block.How can i tell if my car DOESNT have a distributor ?
99 malibu does not have a distributor, it has an electric ignition coil.
Open the hood and look at the top of the engine. If you see an air cleaner on top of a carburetor, then you have a distributor. If instead, you see a large metal looking device and no air cleaner on top, it has a fuel injection system.
Did you take a distributor off the car when you changed the head gasket?
How do i change the ignition coil on my 92 eagle talon ?
im trying to replace the ignition coil on my 92 eagle talon 2.0 liter non turbo but dont know where to begin. i think its in the distributor but i dont know where it isHow do i change the ignition coil on my 92 eagle talon ?
Look under the intake manifold on the drivers side. It`s the thing with the 4 spark plug wires coming out of it and disappearing under a plastic cover on top of the rocker cover. Couple bolts , 4 ign wires and 1 wireing plug and you have it off, same to put it back on. Your ';dist'; is about the size of a tuna can and is on the other end of the head driven by the rear cam.
Look under the intake manifold on the drivers side. It`s the thing with the 4 spark plug wires coming out of it and disappearing under a plastic cover on top of the rocker cover. Couple bolts , 4 ign wires and 1 wireing plug and you have it off, same to put it back on. Your ';dist'; is about the size of a tuna can and is on the other end of the head driven by the rear cam.
Car won't start when engine is hot or at operating temperature?
Hi its Daihatsu Charade 1.0 Carburrated Petrol engine. 1985 with 220kkms on it.
It starts fine in the morning but after driving half an hour if I switch the engine off, and try to start immediately, the starter would turn really slow and the car wont start. I checked the voltage across the battery terminals and it turned out to be 13.6V. And after I let the car rest for 10 mins (winter here), it would start immediately.
Just wanted to add that last month I changed spark plugs, cables, distributor head, rotor, contact breakers and adjusted ignition timing.
Can it be the starter motor? If so, only the bushes or bearing or solenoid or all of them? Any suggestions on how to rebuild will be a great help.
Thanks for your opinions.Car won't start when engine is hot or at operating temperature?
Yes it could be a starter problem but check also your ignition coil. Hope this helps!Car won't start when engine is hot or at operating temperature?
I'm not familiar with that car, but what you're describing sounds like heat soak on the starter. you can try insulating it from the heat of the engine but the starter may just be wearing out. I always recommend a new starter over a rebuild unless it's a very hard to find part.
It starts fine in the morning but after driving half an hour if I switch the engine off, and try to start immediately, the starter would turn really slow and the car wont start. I checked the voltage across the battery terminals and it turned out to be 13.6V. And after I let the car rest for 10 mins (winter here), it would start immediately.
Just wanted to add that last month I changed spark plugs, cables, distributor head, rotor, contact breakers and adjusted ignition timing.
Can it be the starter motor? If so, only the bushes or bearing or solenoid or all of them? Any suggestions on how to rebuild will be a great help.
Thanks for your opinions.Car won't start when engine is hot or at operating temperature?
Yes it could be a starter problem but check also your ignition coil. Hope this helps!Car won't start when engine is hot or at operating temperature?
I'm not familiar with that car, but what you're describing sounds like heat soak on the starter. you can try insulating it from the heat of the engine but the starter may just be wearing out. I always recommend a new starter over a rebuild unless it's a very hard to find part.
How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
I am about to buy a 1974 Nova, it needs new points and I have never had to change points before, how do you do this, how hard is it, and where can I get points at? Also should I go ahead and change the spark plugs, distributor and spark plug wires as well, the car has been sitting since 2003, what do yall think? ThanksHow do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
Best thing to do is get an HEI upgrade kit from Summit Racing's website. There are a number of them available from several manufacturers. Dump the old breaker-point style components...It makes life so much easier.How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
you can buy the points at your local auto parts retailer and they can tell you the correct gap and show you how tyo set the gap. To change the points you remove the distributor cap and the rotor button. You will see the points sitting under the rotor button remove the screw then the points the installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
you can get points at an auto store( Kragen, NAPA,Checker,Knecht). you should also change the plugs,condenser, cap, rotor and plug wires. the condenser may come with the points.
points are fairly easy to change, just make sure to set them properly.
It's easy to change. Just pop open the distributor cap remove the old points and install the new one. It's a gizmo probably held with two screws. I don't know why they use plural - points - because it's a very singular item. It's like the only thing under the cap. It opens and closes while riding the distributor shaft. Also under the cap: the rotor. You should put in a new cap, rotor, points, and wires unless the wires look new and heavy duty.
It looks like this:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi
Go ahead and click on a few of those images. They reminded me: you sould also replace the condensor. All these parts are cheap but very important.
Pics of rotors:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im
HI
are you sure it has points... the 70's was when they were going to Electronic ignition.
As far as the rest Yes change out the spark plugs %26amp; distributor CAP (not the distributor) %26amp; rotor and plug wires if they are bad.. All can be bought at any parts store.
If you change the spark plug wires be sure to do them ONE AT A TIME SO YOU DON'T MIX THEM UP..( this has be done a lot.) Same with the cap. the cap will only go on one way so line the new cap up next to the old cap and move the wires one at a time.
If its been sitting that long you may have to have the carburetor rebuilt and or cleaned it well be gummed up with the old fuel (float may be stuck, needle and seat may be stuck open as well as the jets may be plugged and accelerate pump shot from sitting dry.)
good luck on your project
Tim
Some 1974 Nova's have no points in the distributor, they were replaced with an ignition module which is screwed-down where the points use to be. If it does have points your GM dealer is the best source for new ones. Don't stew they're easy to replace along with a new condensor. The points are held into place with two small screws on either end of the point set. Don't completely remove the screws just loosten them up they'll slide right out. The condensor is held down with a ring sleeve opposite the points.
After you've installed the points twist the plate where the rotor springs and advance weights were sitting till a lobe of the points cam opens the points. Their should be .019 clearance between the points when the cam lobe is in the center of the point arm. Adjust with a small allan wernch on the left hand side. GM has a special cam grease. Don't wipe on too much.
To double check your workmanship hook up a dwell meter and start the car. With the small allan wernch lift the window on the distributor cap and twist the screw till you see between 28 - 32 degrees of dwell angle on the meter. 30 degrees is about right on the money.
Use an AC-Delco, standard or MSD cap and rotor. AC-Delco, Moroso, Taylor and MSD makes the best ignition wires. Don't use any of Auto Zone's cheap off-shore ignition parts.memory card for digital camera need replacement skin bleaching minimize scars
Best thing to do is get an HEI upgrade kit from Summit Racing's website. There are a number of them available from several manufacturers. Dump the old breaker-point style components...It makes life so much easier.How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
you can buy the points at your local auto parts retailer and they can tell you the correct gap and show you how tyo set the gap. To change the points you remove the distributor cap and the rotor button. You will see the points sitting under the rotor button remove the screw then the points the installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
you can get points at an auto store( Kragen, NAPA,Checker,Knecht). you should also change the plugs,condenser, cap, rotor and plug wires. the condenser may come with the points.
points are fairly easy to change, just make sure to set them properly.
It's easy to change. Just pop open the distributor cap remove the old points and install the new one. It's a gizmo probably held with two screws. I don't know why they use plural - points - because it's a very singular item. It's like the only thing under the cap. It opens and closes while riding the distributor shaft. Also under the cap: the rotor. You should put in a new cap, rotor, points, and wires unless the wires look new and heavy duty.
It looks like this:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi
Go ahead and click on a few of those images. They reminded me: you sould also replace the condensor. All these parts are cheap but very important.
Pics of rotors:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im
HI
are you sure it has points... the 70's was when they were going to Electronic ignition.
As far as the rest Yes change out the spark plugs %26amp; distributor CAP (not the distributor) %26amp; rotor and plug wires if they are bad.. All can be bought at any parts store.
If you change the spark plug wires be sure to do them ONE AT A TIME SO YOU DON'T MIX THEM UP..( this has be done a lot.) Same with the cap. the cap will only go on one way so line the new cap up next to the old cap and move the wires one at a time.
If its been sitting that long you may have to have the carburetor rebuilt and or cleaned it well be gummed up with the old fuel (float may be stuck, needle and seat may be stuck open as well as the jets may be plugged and accelerate pump shot from sitting dry.)
good luck on your project
Tim
Some 1974 Nova's have no points in the distributor, they were replaced with an ignition module which is screwed-down where the points use to be. If it does have points your GM dealer is the best source for new ones. Don't stew they're easy to replace along with a new condensor. The points are held into place with two small screws on either end of the point set. Don't completely remove the screws just loosten them up they'll slide right out. The condensor is held down with a ring sleeve opposite the points.
After you've installed the points twist the plate where the rotor springs and advance weights were sitting till a lobe of the points cam opens the points. Their should be .019 clearance between the points when the cam lobe is in the center of the point arm. Adjust with a small allan wernch on the left hand side. GM has a special cam grease. Don't wipe on too much.
To double check your workmanship hook up a dwell meter and start the car. With the small allan wernch lift the window on the distributor cap and twist the screw till you see between 28 - 32 degrees of dwell angle on the meter. 30 degrees is about right on the money.
Use an AC-Delco, standard or MSD cap and rotor. AC-Delco, Moroso, Taylor and MSD makes the best ignition wires. Don't use any of Auto Zone's cheap off-shore ignition parts.
Any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury gearheads out there???
I HAVE A 1961 lINCOLN CONTINENTAL WITH A 430(REBUILT)ENGINE.I HAVE ALL NEW PARTS ON THE CAR,THE PROBLEM IS ...IT WONT ACCELERATE,IT BOGS WHEN THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED TO THE FLOOR BUT RUNS AT IDLE BEAUTIFULLY..I'VE CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP,DISTRIBUTOR AND POINTS,CARB,PLUGS,WIRES,CAP AND ROTOR,FUEL FILTER,FUEL LINES,AND TANK SENDING UNIT,BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS,CAN ANYONE HELP,OR HAVE ANY CLUE AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM IS,AND HOW TO RESOLVE IT??? THANKS...........Any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury gearheads out there???
I realize you have a variety of answers, but I'd be shocked if it wasn't a carburetor problem. The carb main metering is separate from the idle circuit, and that's why it idles but won't actually run.
I feel pretty sure it's not ignition related.Any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury gearheads out there???
sounds like you have a timeing chain problem,,Maybe a notch out on the gears,,
I need more information about the prior state of the motor and the state now. The stumble you are speaking of, what it there from the start of the engine install and have it become worse? Or did it start before the motor was replaced? E-mail me and we can work it out. I will also need your Dwell, current timing, the type of carburetor and current jet size, the idle speed, and any custom modifications made to the motor prior to install. If you do not have any of this information I can provide the factory settings. But as some of the things have been changed we may need to make some guesses.
I'm with car nut.I'd check the static timing.Are you sure the accelerator pump on the carb is working right?And the float levels are set right?It might be worth pulling the air cleaner and cracking the throttle with the engine off to see if it's getting a healthy shot of gas down the carb throat.Also hook a timing light to it and make sure the vacuum advance is working right.Hopefully the crank and the cam are indexed right.
I had a 63 with a 460 in it.I wish i still had it.Great car!
and i bet if you accelerate moderately as you floor it she gets up and goes-right? my bet it is the accelerator pump--real easy to check--with the engine off open the choke plate and look down the primary carburator bores. take the throttle linkage and push it back and look and see if you have two strong squirts of fuel-one squirting into each venturi--my guess is none or just a little dribble--my other guess is it is hard starting too.the accel. pump is real easy to change...if i can be of any more help let me know...and if you ever have overheating problems nobody can figure out..let me know..cuz those engines 410/430 have 3 thermostats in them--i think the 368 does also
I realize you have a variety of answers, but I'd be shocked if it wasn't a carburetor problem. The carb main metering is separate from the idle circuit, and that's why it idles but won't actually run.
I feel pretty sure it's not ignition related.Any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury gearheads out there???
sounds like you have a timeing chain problem,,Maybe a notch out on the gears,,
I need more information about the prior state of the motor and the state now. The stumble you are speaking of, what it there from the start of the engine install and have it become worse? Or did it start before the motor was replaced? E-mail me and we can work it out. I will also need your Dwell, current timing, the type of carburetor and current jet size, the idle speed, and any custom modifications made to the motor prior to install. If you do not have any of this information I can provide the factory settings. But as some of the things have been changed we may need to make some guesses.
I'm with car nut.I'd check the static timing.Are you sure the accelerator pump on the carb is working right?And the float levels are set right?It might be worth pulling the air cleaner and cracking the throttle with the engine off to see if it's getting a healthy shot of gas down the carb throat.Also hook a timing light to it and make sure the vacuum advance is working right.Hopefully the crank and the cam are indexed right.
I had a 63 with a 460 in it.I wish i still had it.Great car!
and i bet if you accelerate moderately as you floor it she gets up and goes-right? my bet it is the accelerator pump--real easy to check--with the engine off open the choke plate and look down the primary carburator bores. take the throttle linkage and push it back and look and see if you have two strong squirts of fuel-one squirting into each venturi--my guess is none or just a little dribble--my other guess is it is hard starting too.the accel. pump is real easy to change...if i can be of any more help let me know...and if you ever have overheating problems nobody can figure out..let me know..cuz those engines 410/430 have 3 thermostats in them--i think the 368 does also
Rev limiter acting up?
I have a 88 nissan I just bought to drive to school back and forth and parked my jeep. When I first drive it to school nothing happens, but when I get out of school thats when it happens. The car won't go over 2500 rpms. It does it through all the gears, and it won't go over 55. Its a consistant missing out, and at first I thought it had something to do with fuel flow. So I changed the fuel filter, distributor cap, and spark plugs and wires. It is a 1.6L 4 cylinder and its fuel injected, 5 speed. Any suggestions? and if it is the rev limiter, how do I go about fixing it?Rev limiter acting up?
It is deff not your rev limiter. Im going to school for Mechanic right now. Have 1 year left anyways. Id say check the MAP sensor.
It is deff not your rev limiter. Im going to school for Mechanic right now. Have 1 year left anyways. Id say check the MAP sensor.
Can my parents take away my car?
i found the car. i bought the car. i fixed it up. i ordered new parts. took it to it to the dealer. i've changed the oil, belt, distributor cap, wire plugs, spark plugs.
long story short. I've payed and done everything for that car. tabs, emissions, insurance everything. I've had my dads help here and there but I've done everything. clean it, wash it, cover it.
so can my mom takes away my car keys as punishment then teach my sister how to drive in it? and says i should take the bus...
im going a little crazy here...
this car is kinda a classic
1990 E30 bmw m3 us specs 100% stock from the battery to the OBCCan my parents take away my car?
If everything is in your name including insurance. No they cannot. If they had this in mind when it came time to insure the vehicle then yes they could. However because everything is in your name you may have to threaten them to bring them to court and may have to call the police to report a theft. They have no right to it if everything is in your name. I speak from legal grounds I have seen taken as a police officer.
If they choose to punish you. A vehicle that you have bought and insured and worked on is not for them to choose to take away since the state has already granted you the privilege to drive.
If parents want to do this they have to insure the vehicle and have it under their name. If the title is in their name then you may have an issue.
You can thumbs down me. This is the law.Can my parents take away my car?
is it under your name and if it is then she has no rights to do that to you
If you paid for it, it's your car and they can't take it away. However, you may find yourself living in it if you don't do what they say.
nothing from the '90's is a classic
how old are you? is the car in your name? (i only ask cuz just cuz you paid for it doesnt mean its in your name)
if your under 18 yes she can take the keys as a punishment. if its not in your name...well even if it is, she could teach your sister to drive in it, but its kinda s h i t t y to do...
if your under 18 yes.
This is one of those rare moments when being a kid sucks.
if you bought the car and it is in your name then no, she cant take it from you. if it is in their name, sadly you are pretty much out of luck.
If you are 17 or younger then yes she can cuz she still has to support you (by law) but even if u are 18 or older as long as you are living in her house she can do that.cuase shes your mom....... Scary
it depends on if your only 16 and at home...who's name it's in...etc.
what did you do to make her punish you in such an unfair way.
it is very wrong of her to do this, i wouldn't stand for it for a second. My parents would never touch my vehicle without my consent, and if they tried, i'd say some unkind things to them
you payed for it, and you own it. those are the rules, and that is whats legal. if they wished to go further with me after my unkind words i'd take them to court.
:-]
what did you do to deserve such punishment. depending on that i would say yes she has a right to take your keys (maybe) but she should not use it or teach your sister to drive. and the insurance will not cover it if she had an accident you would have to say she took the car without permission and what a lot of trouble for the family. and if you had been drinking and driving or some thing considered dangerous then a time without the car would be good for you that's why i said maybe.
the first question is what did you do and the second question is does she pay insurance on the car and yes she can do this
If you are under 18, she has every right to take your keys as punishment.
Using it to teach your sister to drive is wrong in my opinion, but not illegal if you are under 18.
Honestly it doesn't really matter whether they CAN take away your keys or not. If they ha vent already they will if they feel its necessary. I went through the same thing with my parents. I bought the car and i pay for it and insurance and maintenance etc but even when i was 18 and 19 they still try threatening me with taking the car away. its kind of ridiculous i know but they are your parents so i guess they can do what they think is best no matter if you agree with them or not.
Yes you're underage!!! Same as my ipod I paid for it but that doesn't mean my parents can't take it away a punishment (I know that isn't a very good example but it's the best I could come up with):-) But I agree it is pretty messed up that your mom is teaching your sister to drive in it but making you take the bus!!! But sinse the car IS in your name you can forbid your sister to drive it:-) Oh and can the car be in your names sinse you are only 17???
Yes they can. You should pay them back for the years they paid your tab. Then you would have a case.
If you live in the U.S. then it isn't your car, you purchased it illegally because it is against the law for minors to enter into contract. If the car is parked on your parents property they can surely take it away. As long as you are a minor and the car is at your mother's home SHE is owner because she owns the properly.it sets on. Now you understand WHY minors by law can't enter into contracts, they know nothing...obviously you don't.
long story short. I've payed and done everything for that car. tabs, emissions, insurance everything. I've had my dads help here and there but I've done everything. clean it, wash it, cover it.
so can my mom takes away my car keys as punishment then teach my sister how to drive in it? and says i should take the bus...
im going a little crazy here...
this car is kinda a classic
1990 E30 bmw m3 us specs 100% stock from the battery to the OBCCan my parents take away my car?
If everything is in your name including insurance. No they cannot. If they had this in mind when it came time to insure the vehicle then yes they could. However because everything is in your name you may have to threaten them to bring them to court and may have to call the police to report a theft. They have no right to it if everything is in your name. I speak from legal grounds I have seen taken as a police officer.
If they choose to punish you. A vehicle that you have bought and insured and worked on is not for them to choose to take away since the state has already granted you the privilege to drive.
If parents want to do this they have to insure the vehicle and have it under their name. If the title is in their name then you may have an issue.
You can thumbs down me. This is the law.Can my parents take away my car?
is it under your name and if it is then she has no rights to do that to you
If you paid for it, it's your car and they can't take it away. However, you may find yourself living in it if you don't do what they say.
nothing from the '90's is a classic
how old are you? is the car in your name? (i only ask cuz just cuz you paid for it doesnt mean its in your name)
if your under 18 yes she can take the keys as a punishment. if its not in your name...well even if it is, she could teach your sister to drive in it, but its kinda s h i t t y to do...
if your under 18 yes.
This is one of those rare moments when being a kid sucks.
if you bought the car and it is in your name then no, she cant take it from you. if it is in their name, sadly you are pretty much out of luck.
If you are 17 or younger then yes she can cuz she still has to support you (by law) but even if u are 18 or older as long as you are living in her house she can do that.cuase shes your mom....... Scary
it depends on if your only 16 and at home...who's name it's in...etc.
what did you do to make her punish you in such an unfair way.
it is very wrong of her to do this, i wouldn't stand for it for a second. My parents would never touch my vehicle without my consent, and if they tried, i'd say some unkind things to them
you payed for it, and you own it. those are the rules, and that is whats legal. if they wished to go further with me after my unkind words i'd take them to court.
:-]
what did you do to deserve such punishment. depending on that i would say yes she has a right to take your keys (maybe) but she should not use it or teach your sister to drive. and the insurance will not cover it if she had an accident you would have to say she took the car without permission and what a lot of trouble for the family. and if you had been drinking and driving or some thing considered dangerous then a time without the car would be good for you that's why i said maybe.
the first question is what did you do and the second question is does she pay insurance on the car and yes she can do this
If you are under 18, she has every right to take your keys as punishment.
Using it to teach your sister to drive is wrong in my opinion, but not illegal if you are under 18.
Honestly it doesn't really matter whether they CAN take away your keys or not. If they ha vent already they will if they feel its necessary. I went through the same thing with my parents. I bought the car and i pay for it and insurance and maintenance etc but even when i was 18 and 19 they still try threatening me with taking the car away. its kind of ridiculous i know but they are your parents so i guess they can do what they think is best no matter if you agree with them or not.
Yes you're underage!!! Same as my ipod I paid for it but that doesn't mean my parents can't take it away a punishment (I know that isn't a very good example but it's the best I could come up with):-) But I agree it is pretty messed up that your mom is teaching your sister to drive in it but making you take the bus!!! But sinse the car IS in your name you can forbid your sister to drive it:-) Oh and can the car be in your names sinse you are only 17???
Yes they can. You should pay them back for the years they paid your tab. Then you would have a case.
If you live in the U.S. then it isn't your car, you purchased it illegally because it is against the law for minors to enter into contract. If the car is parked on your parents property they can surely take it away. As long as you are a minor and the car is at your mother's home SHE is owner because she owns the properly.it sets on. Now you understand WHY minors by law can't enter into contracts, they know nothing...obviously you don't.
How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
i have a 1987 chevy caprice, at first i could burn rubber, and go really fast. then my rebuilt trans messed up, and ever since then i ha vent been able to burn rubber. i changed my wires,plugs,distributor cap and rotor. i have been getting backfire or misfire ever since i swap out those old parts for new ones. how do i tell if my engines compression is good ? but i didn't experience a improvement in power, can the trans keep me from burning rubber or getting the full power from the engine ?How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
Buy a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and insert the gauge, turn the car over and check the reading, compare with proper compression for the engine and get fixed where needed. If you need help, take it to Auto-zone and they will help you. Good luck!How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
If your getting back fire, check your firing order first . you have a wire or two swaped. then give it a try .
make sure you have the plug wires on correctly. as few as 2 wires on the wrong plugs can cause a back firing issue.
to check your compression you need to buy a compression tester and pull the spark plugs to use it
My chap says you have to do a compression test. Go to Halfords and buy a compression gauge and test each cylinder via the sparkplug hole. They should all be of similar readings within a few degrees. If there is a major difference in reading for each bore - urgent garage repair needed.
no make sure all the connections are absolutely correct you may have put the wrong plug on the wrong cylynder which would cause misfiring
you do a compressiont test
take it in if you dont know what you are doing
if you plan on doing them yourself
make sure its at TDC
Buy a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and insert the gauge, turn the car over and check the reading, compare with proper compression for the engine and get fixed where needed. If you need help, take it to Auto-zone and they will help you. Good luck!How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
If your getting back fire, check your firing order first . you have a wire or two swaped. then give it a try .
make sure you have the plug wires on correctly. as few as 2 wires on the wrong plugs can cause a back firing issue.
to check your compression you need to buy a compression tester and pull the spark plugs to use it
My chap says you have to do a compression test. Go to Halfords and buy a compression gauge and test each cylinder via the sparkplug hole. They should all be of similar readings within a few degrees. If there is a major difference in reading for each bore - urgent garage repair needed.
no make sure all the connections are absolutely correct you may have put the wrong plug on the wrong cylynder which would cause misfiring
you do a compressiont test
take it in if you dont know what you are doing
if you plan on doing them yourself
make sure its at TDC
My 93 Integra (5 speed) won't start. Which should I replace first?
My car's been stalling a lot and and take about 30 minutes to start back up. I just change the fuel filter. My car cranks but now it wont even start at all! Could it be my distributor? Someone told me to change my ignition coil. What should I do first? How should I be checking my distributor/ignition coil?My 93 Integra (5 speed) won't start. Which should I replace first?
You need to provide more history or information. It could be many things based on this information.My 93 Integra (5 speed) won't start. Which should I replace first?
From what you're describing it could be your ignition coil
If you just want to replace things, start with replacing the car. If you want to fix the car, have someone who knows what they are doing look at it.
There has been a problem with the distributor on these and Hondas. Pull the cap and check where the coil contacts the cap.
Check the answer I placed under the Cev S10 no start question. Same applies to ur carhair straightener hair show
You need to provide more history or information. It could be many things based on this information.My 93 Integra (5 speed) won't start. Which should I replace first?
From what you're describing it could be your ignition coil
If you just want to replace things, start with replacing the car. If you want to fix the car, have someone who knows what they are doing look at it.
There has been a problem with the distributor on these and Hondas. Pull the cap and check where the coil contacts the cap.
Check the answer I placed under the Cev S10 no start question. Same applies to ur car
How much would this tune up cost?
I have 97 thunderbird v-8 4.6 liter with 80,000 miles. Car runs fine except when i accelerate it bogs like at a stop sign or when i first start it. What would it cost to replace fuel filter,air filter,plugs and wires,distributor cap and rotor, PCV,oxygen sensor,Change the points and condenser, flush some fluids if it needs it like transmission or antifreeze. How much would this cost?How much would this tune up cost?
Your engine does not have a distributor or points and a condenser so there would be no need for a cap, rotor or plug wires. Your engine is COP= coil over plug and it requires platinum spark plugs in fact double platinum's were used in that engine. It sounds like your just throwing parts at it to see if it will fix the problem rather than diagnosis the real problem. Your plugs are changed at 100,000 miles, so they are not due at this time. How about a fuel pressure test to see if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to support acceleration and then go from there. Just a suggestion rather than throwing parts at it for no good reason. Transmission service and engine coolant flush is probably a good idea and can be done for under $200.00 parts included. Good Luck
Your engine does not have a distributor or points and a condenser so there would be no need for a cap, rotor or plug wires. Your engine is COP= coil over plug and it requires platinum spark plugs in fact double platinum's were used in that engine. It sounds like your just throwing parts at it to see if it will fix the problem rather than diagnosis the real problem. Your plugs are changed at 100,000 miles, so they are not due at this time. How about a fuel pressure test to see if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to support acceleration and then go from there. Just a suggestion rather than throwing parts at it for no good reason. Transmission service and engine coolant flush is probably a good idea and can be done for under $200.00 parts included. Good Luck
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